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Welding STICKY

Discussion in 'DIY and Junkyard Turbo Tech' started by turbo54, Jan 12, 2005.

  1. Supe

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2006
    307 and 309 both work well for welding mild steel. They're typically the two most recommended fillers for mild steel to stainless steel joints.
     
  2. Control Freak

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2005
    turbo header im working on. Stainless vband turbine inlet from tial :2thumbs:



     
  3. cammerfe

    Joined:
    Feb 29, 2008
    Guidance please---RE: HF TIG

    Is there anyone here that can explain (and diagram) for a very ignorant novice weldor what it will take to install a foot pedal such as for a sewing machine on one of the HF TIGs. ( Or suggest another source for a foot/rheostat). I have a chance to buy one of the little HF TIGs at a very attractive price. It's virtually new.
    Thanks in advance for any light you may be able to shine on this---see the link close above, but with only the bare suggestion that this can be done.
    KenS from Ben's Place
     
  4. jammerjamming

    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    wow guys, this sticky is a great read for someone like me, who is a beginner. major :2thumbs: for this sticky.

    im sure i will have questions shortly ;)
     
  5. 66Coupe352

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2008
    Hi all,

    I am thinking about picking up a Miller 185 MIG (220v circuit) with gas. Ive been told that could weld quite a bit. I found a good deal on a brand new one, so I was wondering if I should get it? I plan on doing exhaust, headers, some light fabrication,etc. Will it hold up?

    Thanks!
     
  6. 66Coupe352

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2008
  7. Supe

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2006
    185 amps is PLENTY of output for just about anything you could possibly need to weld on a racecar. For exhaust, headers, etc, you won't even come close to the output of that machine.
     
  8. 66Coupe352

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2008
    Good stuff. Should be here next monday!
    Next up is a tubing bender...or I may just use my friends one haha.
     
  9. MSM69Z28

    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2003
    no expert by any means. i would say I am decent with mild steel TIG and MIG. Not as pretty as those stainless headers, NLR-Power and Control, but gettin' there.

    i am playing with aluminum now. in my opinion, aluminum can be easier in many ways if its very clean and your settings are just right, otherwise, it is not forgiving and really comes out like crap. Mild especially, but stainless as well, are much more forgiving, but aluminum can really lay down the dimes when all go right.

    pic of first time practices:


    after some more practice:




    Thanks,

    Michael
     
  10. turbo cat

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2007
    welding with socks and sandals? :D This is some good info as Im going to start practicing some TIG soon
     
  11. MSM69Z28

    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2003
    lol. yea, i saw that in the picture after I posted it, and was waiting for someone to say something. first, socks with sandals is gay, in my opinion, so it is embarrassing as it is. it went down like this. After I got done welding, I went in the house to do some flat bench reps with 400lbs and then quench my thirst with a jack daniels straight up, and just had a lapse in judgement when i slid some sandals on to walk out to take a quick pic. make no mistake about it, i am a 6' foot man whore that nails a new chic every night. anyone believe me? :2thumbs:
     
  12. mootang

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2006
    LOL
     
  13. turbo cat

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2007
    Im not buying it :homos:
     
  14. tricked-out-toy

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2007
    Ive read through the sticky a couple times over the past 6 months or so and Id like to see some more info on mig welding aluminum. I have a Lincoln 180 with a spool gun and I tried just about everything to get it lay a decent bead. Am I doing something wrong? i tried to weld it like I would steel. sometimes ill run a bead with circle or even a weave but if I tried to do anything other than drag the puddle it would blow through the aluminum. I guess the question is when welding aluminum does it "sound" the same as steel" I can get a decent bead by using the lowest head and pretty much letting ball forum up on the end of the rud untill enough heat gets into the aluminum to puddle up. once it puddles up it pull s the ball on the end of the wire in and it starts to lay up. the probelm is it "sounds" like total shit.... im kinda at a loss.... I was hoping to be able to weld my charge piping together...
     
  15. cammerfe

    Joined:
    Feb 29, 2008
    Does anyone care to make a comment regarding the use of a sewing machine foot pedal to vary power going into a Harbor Freight TIG? I raised the question back in mid-summer, since it was barely suggested in one of the posts, but have had no comment. Thanks for your time!
    KS
     
  16. Boomslang

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2009
    No you won't be getting the "sizzling bacon" sound like steel. You could check out www.weldingweb.com for some info. I mostly tig but I've used the spool gun on Aluminum before. It'll take some practice before you get used to it but get ready to move once you get your puddle.
     
  17. gtrpwr

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2008
    The foot pedal for amp control can be of great use if you get used to it. You can form a puddle way quicker and tailing out is also easier. But by no means is it necessary.
    If you want to try it out by all means go for it, most people tig weld with a pedal because it gives you on the fly amp control so you can burn out tacks with ease etc. It would take a bit of time to get your welds looking as consistent as if you ran just straight amps though.
     
  18. Ironworker

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2009
    if at all possible if you will tack it together where you will start and finish your weld makes it a lot easier to look continuous
     
  19. Ironworker

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2009
    yeah ok never mind that was for a few pages back or well alot of pages back
     
  20. cammerfe

    Joined:
    Feb 29, 2008
    Thanks much!!!
    KS
     
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