Sure does, but you're not going to get much finer output than a Dynasty! Try using a smaller tungsten, too. I wouldn't use bigger than a 1/16th for material that thin.

 

i used a 1/16 tungsten but it balls up at the end way to fast!!!

 

Are you using a pure tungsten? It should not ball up at all if you are welding steel with the proper tungsten.

 

I am using ceriated and lanthaniated

 

Too high amperage will cause the tungsten to ball up.


My best advice would be to turn the amps down some, and use wire finer than 16th. You basically need to see that flange just break the border of being liquid, then almost wash it over the filler up onto tubing. A "full strength" fillet weld only needs to have a throat depth (distance from where the flang and tubing meet to the face of the fillet weld) equal to that of the thinner member you're welding on. So if you're welding on 16 gauge tubing, your weld size only needs to be at most .065".

Also, do you strip the copper coating off your filler wire and wipe the filler and flange down with acetone? This will allow it to wet out more easily.

 

Damn Supe, you are a wealth of information! Thanks for helping us self-taught hacks the proper way to do things.

 

WOW thanx for the advice!!!! im new to this stuff ive had my welder for about 3 weeks but i think im making progress!!!!

LMAO HACKS LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL

 

DO NOT USE PURE TUNGSTEN ON A DYNASTY MACHINE. It is in the manual. Inverters do not "like" pure tungsten. There also have been Dyn failures with people using pure tungsten. Go to the Miller site message board and you will see this.
T.J.

 

Exactly!! Dynasty's do not like pure tungsten.. Everything you read about transformer machines, you can pretty much throw out the window, when it comes to inverters.. Sharped your tungsten weither your welding steel or aluminum.. I personally have the best luck with the highest percentage lanthanated tungstens I can get.. I usually only run 3/32 for everything. Because you're sharpening the tungsten, it really doesn't matter if you go up or down in size too much.. It just keeps the tungsten from "wearing out" quicker...

I've welded down to .035 with 3/32 1.5%lanth. and all the way up to 1/4" aluminum, which is about all the more I can squeek out of a dynasty, and it took pre-heat.

 

X2. Lanthanated or Ceriated will work, but I've found the Lanthanated to be the better of the two.

 

http://www.pelechbrosracing.com/news070112.html

 

I tried a stick of ceriated once, and it seemed to almost "spit" alittle.. With 3/32 lanthanated it'll weld the thin stuff great, as well as WOT on the Dynasty without balling up too bad. It really seems to handle the heat well..

I think I paid 30 bucks for 10 tungstens which really isn't that bad either.. I always buy my tungstens in bulk, makes the "hazardous surcharge" not seem so bad.. Now I just gotta start buying my gas lens cups in bulk.. Had a few issues lately with them cracking at the neck down after the lense.

 

Now I know where to look for a job if I ever move out that way! (Although as an OSU fan who's sick of the cold, I don't see that happening )


Another trick I'll use very rarely on thin stuff is to actually knock off the very tip of the tungsten, and round it off ever so slightly. I've been in a pinch having to weld some pretty darn thin material with a 60 year old ESAB machine, where it's nearly impossible to not burn through with a concentrated arc because it's just not stable enough at amperages that low. Rounding it off will make the HAZ a little wider, but will feather out and dissipate the heat a tad more. Pain in the balls to do right though.

 

Don't need to do that with a Dynasty though I've never done it, but it goes down to 5amps! I've welded a few times at 30amps, and with all the advanced do-dad's it did a great job.

 

When I use to work at Roush Racing... we use to weld aluminum pop cans... only was able to get a couple beads before it would blow out.

 

This thread is a wealth of info. Thanks guys

 

Did anyone ever manage to mate a foot pedal with the $199 Harbor Freight Tig welder? The little welder does a decent job but that foot pedal would make it sooo much better. I wonder if a foot pedal for a sewing machine has the right specs to replace the pot in the machine? I'll have to check out my wifes sewing machine. Another thought was to just wire up a foot switch (not a pot) and when it's pushed it bypasses the pot in the welder and give you full power to start and then release to use the welders pot setting.

Any thoughts.

 

hi

a great read this thread is , good to members helping out in the tech department of mig and tig welding


keep up the good work guys


cheers

 

You would weld full unopened cans of soda? Sounds dangerous. I like it and would never try it.

I do have a question though...

I have a Miller 330 A B/P from the 70s that won't put out a strong arc anymore.

I've regapped the spark gap, changes the fuses, and tried using it without remote amperage but the thing still just puts out a tiny little arc not even close to being able to weld with.

Any insight?

 

You might want to check the diodes in the bridge rectifier they are a very common problem with the older miller welders. If one is bad take my advice and go ahead and change all four if one or more are leaking current it will just blow the new diode right out.

The machine will have two forward and two reverse flow type diodes be sure when you replace them that you put them back in the right direction. To check them you need a ohm meter take them out one at a time and check them you should only get a reading in one direction ONLY, if it reads in both directions then that is the problem.

This is what they will look like
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If it is the diodes bad you can source them from a place called GALCO.com
Call them up and they can fix you up with what you need or your local welding supply store can get them also but they will likely be higher.