Yeah, and gas.. I don't go through too much gas since I switched to gas lenses and was able to turn down the gas to 11-15, instead of the 19-23 I was having to run before.

 

Lightningstruk,
Do you have a 200 or a 300Dynasty. I had a 200 and sold it and got a 300DynDx machine. This thing is crazy. On about 250amps on A/C with the freq. at 125hz it sounds like a model airplane on steroids. IMHO the 300DX has a totally different arc than the 200DX does. It is not better just different I guess. Next project is to build a home made TIG cooler and go water cooled torch.
T.J.

 

Sorry for the slow response.

I have a 200dx.. Yeah, they definitely have their own sound, that's for sure! I generally run the frequency much higher, to keep the arc cone narrower on aluminum.

While a water cooled torch would be nice, I don't do much thick gauge material, and if I do, I generally am not tig'ing(if mild steel). Most aluminum work is 1/8 inch 3003, 5052, and 6061. By the time my fingers on my torch hand get hot, it's time for another beer (only if I'm not working on side jobs)

 

Hey guys I read a few pages and need a real quick answer please.

My dad and I are restoring our 70' fastback which will be getting a turbo of course.

I need to know if the welder I bought will be good enough to do simple body work welding. Like we have to do welding on the cowl and on a fender. Nothing really major.

Here is a link to it, yes it's from Harbor Frieght...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=94164

BTW, we plan on using flux core since we already ordered it. Should we use gas instead?

Thanks again.

 

I would shy away from it.. I guess it would work, but not with Flux core, you'll end up burning more holes than filling them. I would suggest a 110V Hobart for thin body work.

Also, go try to find a rather thick piece of copper. The "coin" I use is about 3/8" thick. Use this as a backer while your filling holes.

 

when tig welding aluminized exhaust pipe what are your weld setting, tungsten size, filler metal type and size,and do you leave a gap or set everything up flush thanks for your help, Josh

 

On my Dynasty I always use 3/32 1.5% lanthanated tungsted(LWS couldn't get 2% for some reason), ER70-S2, and generally 10 amps per .01 material plus another 10 amps. That way I've got alittle headroom on the pedal.

As far as prep, I grind down through the aluminizing, and get the fit up as close as possible. You don't really want any kind of gap with TIG. I usually use 3/32 filler, but need to get back to the LWS and pick up some 1/16 as I find it easier to use smaller rod.

 

thanks for the help

 

I've built 2 kits with that welder, icluding a set of headers. It works good and has plenty of power to do a turbo kit. On thicker stuff or say a roll cage it'll kinda suck though. The mig gun that comes with it is crap though, you have to be very careful when you use it so you don't damage the gun. Also be careful with the cable that feeds the wire and gas, the liner in it sucks. If you aren't gently with it it will cause the wire to get hung up or "birds nest" in the liner. It works great when you need something for light fab on occasion. Definitely use the gas, stay away from flux core.

 

New to the site... I have about 12 years of profesional racing expirerance as a fabricator so I will try to answer questions that I can about welding and fabricating.

 

Welcome aboard.

You wouldn't happen to be Mark who used to have a twin turbo Chevy Luv with a SB Chrysler would you?

 

welding 16 gauge tubing to header flange?

i have a question for u guys? do u guy weld the tube on the flange or get the tube through the flange and weld from the inside at the seam? thanx

 

Don't weld the inside alone. If you want to weld inside and out and resurface the flange, that's fine, but you're putting more heat into it than you need to. If the tubing was not designed to slip fit into the flange, a fillet along the outside should more than suffice.

 

thanx!!!!

 

ive been practicing with mild steel 16 guage tubing and 1/2 inch mild steel flanges..........ive been starting the pool on the thicker flange and slowy walking it to the tube to start a fillet.....its a real pain in the ass to control the heat without blowing holes in the tubing!!!! i give u guys credit who can do this

 

MIG or TIG? Assuming TIG, what size filler wire? On something that thin, the smaller the better. I'd run TOPS 1/16, although even that's on the big side. The smaller the wire, the less overall heat input, the lesser the chance of blowing through.

 

That's about how I do it. . .I can't really explain it. If you don't, it will suck up real bad on the inside of the tube/collector.

Supe, since we're talking about collectors/flanges, have you ever heard of welding the tube to the flange on the inside and using Silicon Bronze on the outside? I've heard of some old timers welding N/A headers this way, but they again, I've hears of old timers welding 4130 with 310 or 312 SS rod.

 

I generally seal the inside of the tube, and stitch weld the outer circumference of the tube. Basically sealing the inside, and giving the outside enough to be structurally sound.

For TIG welds that need small diameter filler, I'll feed out 6 or 7 feet of .030 MIG wire, double it up, and twist it with a cordless drill. This works pretty good on 14-16ga steel.

 

Can't say I've heard of it, but I'm sure it's been tried before. I'm personally not a big fan of brazing/silicon bronze in any kind of high heat application personally, but that's just me.


Welding moly tubing with 310 or 312 ss rod is an acceptable practice. Stainless other than the austenitic types can cause cracking though. I'm personally not a fan of it either, because a)it's expensive, and b)I find that I have to put more heat into the joint to get it to wet out properly.

 

i have a 200dx dynasty.......im using 1/16 rod, i guess it just takes practice!!!!LOL