I have not drivin the car but everything is back together with the new filter etc. etc.

One thing I am going to do is change the relay setup... I found a 40 amp Buler relay in my box of relays... so I plan on re wiring everything (which will cut down on wires from the dual relays) on that one relay and use #10 for everything (grounds feeds etc)... I really hope all this fixes this damn problem!...

And as far as the pumps being real or fake'¦ I bought mine from Jaysracing.com (He deals in a TON of these pumps and seemed like a straight shooter and was a ton of help!) I actually found a set for $140.00 on Ebay and almost jumped on them!.. Well I called the # on the auction and they told me they are NOT OEM Bosch pumps but they are OEM quality; everything else is the same (flow rate and LPH ratings!).... Forget that!!... I did find them for 180.99 shipped... which is the best deal I can find so far... LMK if any of you guys can get them cheaper... Thanks!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bosch-044-External-Fuel-Pump-300-LPH-0580254044-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2303a3af2eQQitemZ150384914222QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

http://blog.evans-tuning.com/tag/injector-dynamics/ interesting reading.

I also bought both of my pumps from Jay Racing,

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_110574/article.html

Although, I did not use an electronic relay a 70 amp relay was used to ensure that as the relay contacts wear sufficient amperage to both pumps would be provided (under $20 insurance), when the contacts are compaired to a "standard" automotive relay they are much larger.

The pumps in my application are setup for a secondary fuel system are activated past 2k RPM and 50% throttle and there is a definite load being put on the alternator, a GM smog/vacuum pump is also activated (a 120 amp GM alternator is used).