The bov should stay closed with the boost pressure on it from the manifold.
I used to use a turbosmart boost tee to change my boost. you could also change the wg springs, or use a boost controller. I still have to make that trip to come check out the car. between getting married and getting things ready for my kid its been hectic in the last couple months.
I could bring the boost tee for you to check out if you want.

 

I know this is a novice question but hopefully someone here can help...

I cannot find a part number or brand on the wastegates, anyone know how to ID these?

I want to up the boost from 8 psi to 20 psi and do not know what springs to order.

The wastegates boost lines are hard lines so I do not want to add a bleeder in there to up the boost.

The old spring was 8 PSI and it was 47mm wide, and 82mm long.

Any thoughts? Here it is appart:

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No problem mike I understand 100%!! I hope things are going well! You are welcome any time you have the time….. The car is going for a dyne test June 20th and it will be painted Shadow Grey by then so you might even want to see it at the morinville car show in june.

 

Instead of putting the body controller in the hard line, you could run a boost reference to the top of the wastegate and put the controller in that. It would function as a dual port wastegate then.

 

Going from 8 psi to 20 psi is a huge jump. I went from 7 psi to 11 psi and cracked my stock block 347 Ford. You're looking for a way to control the boost which you can do by either restricting the pressure to the bottom of the waste gate, or you can add boost pressure to the top of the gate to keep it from opening. In either case, I'd only increase pressure by 2-3 psi per pull. If you start running out of fuel because the pump can't keep up, you might have some warning.

 

Thanks for the reply... I managed to find a 15 psi and a 20 psi spring so I can work my way up on the dyno...

I am currently touching up some bodywork and it will soon be off to the paint booth!

I am super excited to see it in paint, and even more excited to get it on the dyno!

 

A guy was looking at the car yesterday and said: "did you fall out of a mad max movie with that car?" It looks pretty bad ass even in primer... It is going in for paint in about a month, will be shadow grey... I am not sure what colour the glass bumpers will be painted... I may try the chrome paint, or flat black might look good... I have all the chrome and emblems removed, weatherstripping removed... Will clean up the chrome while its off and add new weatherstripping too... Adding a stage 2 hood scoop to cover up the hole in the hood and also guide cool air into the engine bay.

 

Look into Alsa Mirrachrome for the bumpers, cool stuff.

 

Thanks! I am trying plasti dip alum paint but always good to hear about options

 

On the current Turbo 4.3 we're building for my friends GMC Typhoon, the Total Seal rings list "Low Boost" as 15-30#; in the recommended guidelines it says to gap the top and bottom rings .007 for each inch of the cylinder bore. I mention this because your new engine will hopefully be setup for boost and have the ring gap to handle the boost range you mentioned. Other wise the added heat to the cylinder will butt the rings and pop the ring lands out of the pistons.

Really quiet car! Are the Turbo's you have big enough to handle the exhaust flow without over boosting the turbine? I've seen a Pontiac 455 running two stock Grand National Turbo's with decent success are your Turbo's bigger or smaller than the GN's?

 

Thanks for the heads up, yes the rings are set too larger than normal gap for the boost. This engine is going to come out this winter in favor of a better one I have here so this is a test to see how it does...

I am not sure how these turbos compare to the GN turbos but they are T0E4 with a 55 I believe... I am not sure how it is going to go but I have the 20 PSI springs in there... Running it on the chassis dyno not the track, that way its not dangerous if it pops.

 

Can't wait to see the results! Hope you get the time to go soon! I'll bet I can put down 1/3 the power your going to make.... LOL I'd poop myself if my Blazer put down 270 rwhp!

 

Its hard to say what it will do on the dyno it may do great or it may fall on its face... All i know is i am showing it no mercy and lots of boost, should be fun! I have a day picked out for the dyno but it all depends on if the paintjob is done in time, and i am waiting for a hood scoop to be made for me so hopefully that doesn't hold up paint.

 

Looking forward to the dyno day myself - Regardless as long as you don't break you will know where you are at power wise

 

This Month is my Birthday so I'm trying to go. We we're going to go to a dyno day today but it's pouring rain.

 

IN case anyone is interested in my custom advance/retard dist that adds timing when under vacuum and removes timing under boost:

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Notes from mark Burton who built my car and this dist setup:

So Sean, remember the crusty old HEI you sent me to try? Well check it out now! I turned the body on the lathe so it had that nice machined look like the MSD units. I added all new electronics, weights and springs. What is that gigantic vacuum advance you ask? My latest in cool stuff that's what! It is a vacuum advance with boost retard!!! It has 2 advance springs inside. Under vacuum it pulls the pickup plate in one direction, on boost it pushes it the other. If you look closely, you can see the tab at the end of the advance bracket that is used to limit the amount of boost retard. The link is threaded to allow rotor phase adjustments too.

 

that can is awesome, I have been looking on the net for something like a Corvair style can. They just don't seem to be out there any more. This seems to be a nice option instead. I've heard some things about Volvo cans but even those are oddballs any more.

They actually did use some advance/retard cans on old GM stuff, but getting one NOS is pricey.

Also, where'd you get the weights from? I'd like a good source of OE style HEI weights myself. Seems like everyone sells the (garbage) aftermarket units.

 

Sorry I am not sure where he got the weights but i did send him a hei core dist to start
With so likely the weights are original to the dist. Mark built some super cool stuff for this car!

 

I am still getting the car prepped for paint, I have spent a ton of time doing boby work, priming, wet sanding, priming etc. I have also been cleaning, scrubbing, wire wheeling etc on the under side so I can paint that too.

I removed a ton of trim, and other parts as well as weatherstripping to prep for paint. Removed the fiberglass bumpers and painted them today, I think they look good.

Still waiting on a hood scoop to get delivered and a few trim pieces but I have almost everything I need.

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Looking naked without the headlight bezels and grille.

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This is after painting with plastidip metalic alum metal simulating paint, this stuff works amazing, no blotches or runs like typical spray paint leaves. I would prefer chrome but there is no economical simulated chrome painting around here.

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Getting ready to use POR 15 rust paint but i need to keep prepping:

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I completed some much needed work to the fiberglass hood and trunk. I attached pvc pipe on the under sides using epoxy so that i can sit the them on the ground without damaging them. They are light wich is great for racing but they are also fragile. I used the end caps for the pvc so I had more surface area to epoxy and it worked perfect. I had to be SUPER careful on the placement of the pvc to ensure they didnt hit anything in the engine bay.

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I also wanted to re enforce the trunk lid at the bend as it was a weak point. I used 3 thin steel flat bar cut to 8" sections and bent to the perfect angle and fiberglassed them to the trunk. Now its all sturdy and the bend matches the body curve where as before it was off.

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The plastidip painted bumper:

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Nothing to exciting here but getting things done before the car goes in for a paint job.

Removed the doors from the car so I could properly paint the inside of the doors and jams, and rebuild the hinges to tighten them up. The doors now line up perfectly where before they sagged 1/2" at the rear.

Removed the 45 year old hinges, zip cut the old pins and pulled them out. This is a better approach than beating them out. Then I pressed in new bushings and test fit the new pins, then cleaned everything up, primed and painted them, and then painted the inside of the doors, and door jams, let them dry and put it al back together, adjusted the door alignment and done.

Now the painter can paint the car without opening the doors, trunk or hood as I already painted those areas with the same paint. This saves him time and me $ as he took $700 off the price since I did this work.

45 year old loose hinges:


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Easy to remove:

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Notice the markings so I do not re-instal them backwards:

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New custom carb for my June 20th chasis dyno testing for rear wheel HP.


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Nice set of details accomplished there.
Bumper looks good.

Mike

 

Do you guys think I should use this EGT kit and monitor all 8 cylinder exhaust temps or just use two probes in the down pipes after the turbo?

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Not too much room for the EGT bungs in the one primary.

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