If you really wanted to you could have ran the drain for the turbo into the valve cover since it's mounted high above the engine.

 

How about remove the TC bolts/nuts to eliminate the trans as a prob?

 

It is not a terrible idea at this point and I am willing to try it but I don't think that is the problem because I can spin the trans in neutral in 4hi/2hi/4low, even in park it the trans locks up as it should and the engine still only gives me 3/4 revolution. I even tried putting the t case in neutral front/rear and trying to spin the engine just because I ran out of ideas.

I think at this point I am hopefully bound to find a broken crank/cam gear or messed up timing chain that is catching somewhere...I really dont wanna drop the pan again just to do a "better" visual on the rotating assy (the boroscope can only see so much), its a real pain in this thing to get the pan off the way it is setup.

 

I agree check your timing chain before you pull the pan . Maybe you can stick the boroscope in through the spark plug hole to see if the pistons are moving up and down if not you might have a broken rod

 

When you roll the motor by hand does the dist rotor turn?

 

In 2 revolutions you have opened and closed every valve in the engine. If there was something in a cylinder or a valve touching a Piston, you would make less than 2 complete revolutions. Is there oil in the transmission? Just because you can spin the driveshaft on the output, doesn't mean the input of an automatic is OK. The torque converter runs in bushings, and drives the oil pump it needs oil or you can gall them. I would disconnect the torque converter first.

 

Yes, and I also had the dizzy out and watched the cam move. I probably have 5- 10 degrees or so of play between when I move the crank and the rotor starts moving which makes me really hope for a timing assy issue..but i am not saying It can't have a messed up rod or TC for sure. Need to do more digging I just ran out of free time yesterday and had to do family stuff.

I had 5 quarts in the trans, it was dry before that, not sure if the converter was empty or not, the engine/trans were installed when I got it. I do have access to the converter drain plug, maybe I will pull it and see if anything comes out.

 

Timing assy is fine...hoping for a shot TC at this point lol#ad

 

Pulled the pan...Bottom end is shot, way to much slop on the rod bearings, can literally grab and rattle them around...then spin it to lock and they don't budge. No main play but can see evidence of piston hitting the crank on a few cylinders....was gunna pull the heads to see what else is wrong but its pretty pointless too keep diaging a fucked engine....could not tell if the rods were bent or not.#ad

 

That sucks! I thought everything looked ok when you had the pan off to install the turbo drains.

 

How'd that engine run?did it run? Now you have a mock up engine til you rebuild that one after you check that one to see if u can salvage anything .

 

Spent a little more time on it, Cylinder 1 piston is kissing the crank counterweight...i don't wanna put rods, bearings, pistons in it...easier, cheaper, faster to buy a whole running truck or stock longblock.

I have never had this engine running, I bought the truck as a rolling chassis.

 

Ahh, that's to bad. What can you do if you never ran it before. You have built a killer truck and you just need to get a good Windsor for it, not hard to do.
Fricken thing is crazy, so if I was you I would build the engine the same way!

 

Limited to 600hp with the FItech which is plenty fine for now...i just wanna drive the bastard! Been kicking around the idea of a marine engine or one of them blueprint or ATK rebuilds with a little more oomph...i just want it strong and reliable, breaking down on a dragstrip and breaking down 200 miles out in the middle of the desert are two very different things haha

 

Well then make it crazy on the reliability side. Find somebody you like who has a good rep and deal with them. It won't cost a fortune to build one for your power goals. Still whatever that rig is nuts!

 

Forged pistons , better rods and hardware and aluminum heads not big runners but something to hold those HGs nice and tight . You might need a bigger turbo anyway .this stuff would be good insurance if you have to do it all over.

 

It would be better to build an engine with boost in mind, than to buy a used truck to pull the engine out of.

I have mixed.feelings about using a Marine engine, and I own a boat shop. They have better internals, and are ballanced well, but the cam and compression ratios might not be quite right. Besides, anything marine costs 1/3 more. For the same money, you could build something more appropriate for your needs.

I am in a similar situation with my twin turbo Ranchero build. I built a 2 bolt main Cleveland short block 20 years ago to replace the original 4 bolt block I broke on Nitrous. Now, I am going with twin GT35'S, so the cam, and pistons are not right. I have enough boost and fuel capability to go up to 1100hp if I get bored with 800. However the block, rods, and crank won't handle that. So, I have to decide if I want to use what I have, build another, and swap everything out later, or build something right now, and do it right the first time. I could potentially ruin my turbos if I am not careful.

 

Well thats half the battle, now i just need figure out what direction i wanna go#ad

 

If 600hp is your goal, another good stock shortblock will do fine. Heads,cam,intake, add bOOst

 

Back on track, got a donor rig with 104k on the clock, runs real good except we found the c clips in 8.8 had enough and took a vacation.#ad