Nice progress, looking forward to hearing HP numbers.

 

I'm still shook up from my past experiences. I'm worried to death about it all. So much time and money goes into these cars and I cant afford to keep doing this.

 

Looks great. Go slow with the boost. Start low and slowly work up. Make sure everything is up to par.

 

I agree creep up on the timing and boost, see what it likes. Its hard to blow up a motor on the dyno bc of the load, but if you dont know what your doing then thats when you get scattered parts. Start at stupid low timing and gate pressure to make sure everything is working properly and then start creeping up on the boost and timing. Make sure you are there at the dyno and aware of whats going on (afr, boost and timing values).

 

I would have a long conversation with the new tuner about what you are going to do with the car, pump gas etc. I'm sure you will. Personally that a/f is a little lean for me(forget the timing for now). I would target 11.2 at 13psi. You will probably be giving up a few hp, but will be safer. New pistons give 9.5:1 compression? You will have to be careful with timing. At 13psi I would start 13-15 and go from there. Just my unprofessional opinion.
If you have the ability to run e85, by all means do it. It is a very forgiving fuel, and cheap. Yes you will need bigger injectors and pump but worth every penny.
I run e85 and the engine still doesn't need a lot of timing. I had a similar build to yours and at 15psi it liked 18*. After peak torque it liked 20*. From 11.2 to 11.8 a/f was only a 10hp difference. I left it at 11.2 because it made more than enough power for my needs (900hp). Every combination is different. That was the findings with my engine. Ran it that way for about 10 years. 8-10k street miles till I took it apart 2 years ago going to twins.

 

https://www.delcity.net/store/Battery-Terminal-Covers-&-Insulators/p_109

 

We are headed to the fabrication shop today to address a few minor issues with the turbo hotside.



#ad

 

#ad

 

What's up with the tow truck?

 

I had the car tow to the fabrication shop for turbo hotside flex joint replacement. I'm having him do a couple other small things done too while its there. He said it should be done in 2weeks.

I'm booked for dyno 2nd week in june.

 

Ah,good. Was hoping it wasn't a "shit the bed" problem.

 

that post should be coming up mid June lol with my luck

 

This was one day after it got dropped off. They are working on it


#ad

 

Ok so I picked up the car yesterday from xtreme muscle carz and I now have the car sitting in my garage. One of the things I had him address was the wildwood parking brakes not working properly and after a couple hours of messing with it and not being able to get it working properly he ended up replacing with new ones. They now work properly and he is thinking faulty parts from wildwood. None the less its working like it should.

but in the process of figuring out the wildwood parking brakes he noticed the driver side tire still not spinning correctly. After more digging he saw the rotor was crooked and looking deeper into it he noticed something not quite right with the driver side of the rear end.

long story short he removed the rear end, disassembled it stuck his jig in there to find out the ends were not even on straight and they were crooked...keep in mind I had this 8.8 done not to long ago by someone else. you just cant trust anyone these days anymore. that person did a terrible job welding 9in ends to a 8.8





here is a picture of his jig trying to fit into my rear end

#ad


and here is a picture of the rotor


#ad



Here are the new Moser ends welded on




so he cut both ends off and replaced them with moser ends and also got the actual housing tube straighter than what it was. Its all put back together and back under the car

here is a picture before the tow truck showed up

#ad




After I got it home I finished up putting the throttle body on and poured antifreeze in. Its pretty much ready to start now.

#ad

 

Nice he caught that,and got it fixed.

 

Friday June 5th, 2020

We started the car up for the first time. Wouldn't you know it to no surprise at all there are issues already. When you turn the key to crank the starter it does absolutely nothing. It use to work just fine before. So while having the Holley Remote tuning guy on stand by we rushed trying to figure out why the car wouldn't crank. We never resolved the issue so we just used a screw driver and made it crank at the starter relay. It took a couple cranks and the car fired right up and ran. Remote tuning guy had locked the timing at 20deg and using a timing gun we verified and it was dead on 20deg of timing.

One thing we noticed was the tapping sound the motor was making. Suspected noise was the lifters. As the motor warmed up it reduced to half the sound. Although still pretty noisy.

The lifters we have are Howards Hyd Roller High RPM link bar style part number 91270 at a whopping cost of $1000

We have 10w30 Valvoline VR1 Racing oil

We took the car for a short trip down the block and back and it was still tapping. They sound just like solid lifters.

I have CRANE ultra gold rockers and the pre-load engine builder set them at is 3/4 turn .037 of preload.

Not only all that but I have a pretty good oil leak at the back of the motor. I crawled under the car and best I can see where its coming from is in-between the block and the transmission bellhousing. I don't know if its the flywheel bolts letting oil get past them.

I feel like selling the car at this point. I can never get anywhere with this stupid car. I am sick and tired of it. I doubt anyone would give me much for it as it sits. I'm stuck with it because I don't want to lose the thousands I've sunk into it.

 

That suuuuucks. Hopefully the tapping is just a rocker that needs adjusted. For the oil leak, it's easier to pull the trans than the engine, so hopefully you can figure it out pretty quick.

 

We took the valve covers off and let everything cool down. Checking the rockers just using our hands, we got zero up or down movement but did have side to side movement. There wasn't anything jumping out at us with the rockers.

If you do a Google search for noisy howard hyd roller lifters there are many threads. There people that have noisy morel hyd rollers too.

I don't know what to think anymore.

It sucks that might have to pull transmission, but its really not that hard to do, Everything is all together right now and its a driving vehicle at this point. I just don't feel like taking everything back apart.

I looked all around the valve covers for the oil leak and its bone dry I also looked everywhere around the oil pan and saw no oil at all. Where I did see the oil stream was running down the bellhousing between the oil pan and bellhousing.

I had a dyno appointment scheduled for this week and now I have to cancel it. I'm just so fed up with everything.

EDIT:

I just got off the phone with Howards Tech department and I explained to the man on the phone what was going on. He said well yea...you bought race lifters of corse they will be a bit noisy. I told him we are running 10w30 oil which he was fine with. The only other thing he was firm about was having 200-225 seat pressure and 500-575 open pressure on the springs. Which at this very moment I'm not sure what mine are. I'll have to get with the engine builder on that kind of information.

 

I would not sweat the noisy lifters as long as everything checks out, builder should have checked to be in spec. Rear main seal might be bad, keep an eye on it but does not need repair right away. Get the tune going, are you using auto tune? That’s what I would do first if it was me, get some miles on it if the rocker situation is fine. Dyno tune can happen later as long as the tune you have is safe. Drive it, you will want to keep it.

 

You should have gone with the cheaper set of Howards link bar lifters. We have a set in a car with 140 @ the seat and 380 open and they are very quiet.
Anyway, if you have a canton or other aftermarket pan, I always fill the gap between the main cap and yhe lip of the pan with silicone. In your case, yank trans and use brake clean and towels until there is no more oil in that gap between pan and cap, and fill it with a high quality silicone. Then smooth it with your finger. I extend it from the side where it curves to go forward all the way to the same spot on the other side. I do that front and rear and they never leak. It could be rear main seal, in that case it was either torn during install or the bearing clearances are big allowing the crank to float around. That'll cause a minor leak.