Valvetrain, shorty headers and intake are on! I also drilled and tapped an intake runner for an IAT sensor.

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Carb is back to "stock" setting and is on the engine, but I totally gotta back up a step.

As I was working on the carb, I was looking at the metering block gaskets and wondered what kept the idle circuit on the secondary side from feeding fuel all the time. This carb was originally a 2 corner idle carb so the metering block on the secondary side has no idle mixture screws. That prompted me to research the differences between 2 corner idle carbs and 4 corner idle carbs. Apparently there is more to it than I thought. lol. The base plates and main bodies are different. Whodathunk?? So what I have created is a 2 corner idle carb with a 4 corner main body. Probably not an ideal combination because I have no control over the secondary's idle mixture. The 2 corner idle base plates have a wavy channel from the primary side to the secondary idle transfer slots. A 4 corner base plate has these channels blocked to separate the primary side from the secondary. 2 corner main bodies do not have the hole drilled to the idle feed port, 4 corner main bodies do.

I am going to tap the hole to the idle feed port in my 4 corner idle main body in order to block it with a set screw. This should make it work like it is supposed to. I don't know how much of a difference this will make, but at least my mind will be at ease.

These pics are on my original 4777-7 main body.
Primary side
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Secondary side
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Mission accomplished. It may not change a darn thing, but at my peace of mind was worth the 56 cents I spent on the two 6-32 set screws. Carb back on, valve covers on and distributor stabbed!

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I was watching some 1320 video yesterday and I saw a wagon go flying over the wall and a crappy old Mustang stopped to watch it fly. Kid got out and I swear it looked like Judd! Y'all know anything about that?

 

Yeah! That was my oldest son Jake when we did RMRW in 2018! It was Jake's third pass EVER on a dragstrip and Carlos shoots across, KO's the wall and flies an incredible distance. It was UNBELIEVABLE how far he flew after hitting the wall. The vid does not do it justice. I told Jake to take his time launching and not worry about reaction time so he was well out of danger but it still didn't make his momma very happy. 1320 managed to cut out the part where I am running down the track. lol.

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16:50 in this video

 

What intake gaskets did you get that dont have those exhaust holes?
And what are you using for a IAT sensor, Im curious to see what you get for numbers!

 

Mr. Gasket 5834

 

Felpro 1262S3 doesn't have them either and it's got a steel center so it doesn't distort like the 1262

 

Good to know!

First heat cycle complete. Filled it with water, and after a couple of distributor tweaks, it barked to life!

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Second heat cycle done. Timing set. Everything seems ok. Pulled valve covers and headers while Judd worked on the Durango. Then retorqued the heads. Remflex gaskets should be here today so I can start buttoning it back up. I am about 98% sure I will have to redo my down pipe yet again. Haha.

 

Choose your battles. Or, fix what you can fix. The Durango is wounded and we needed another car for Judd to drive, so I put the Mustang mostly back together last night and drove it home. Everything went great. I am just running it na right now to get the carb sorted out and running clean so I did not connect the turbo piping. It is stupid rich under accel right now and perfect on cruise. I think part of my issue with this carb is the fact I have the vacuum ports looped. Didn't think much of it but last night after I got home it dawned on me that by looping them, I just created a vacuum leak. lol Manifold vacuum port (below throttle plates) connected to ported vacuum port (above throttle plates).

Down pipe fit with a little massaging from a big hammer.

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YIKES!!! DO't run that turbo with the cold side open. You can overspin it and wipe the bearings.

 

lol ok Didn't know it was a problem.

Didn't spin it hard going home. Prob never got over 2500 rpm on the 3 mile drive.

 

If it will be like this for a while, pull the spring out of the WG to help slow it down.

 

I went ahead and put the charge pipes on it. They required some reconfiguring because the hood would no longer shut. Moving the engine forward caused that. No biggie though, I had an extra 180 bend I cut to make it all work.

 

Jetted down the primaries and threw a 2.5 PV in it this evening. It helped the overly rich part throttle accel quite a bit. It is still too rich, but I feel like I am moving in the right direction. It has a lean stumble just as you open the throttle that goes away if you pedal it (duh) but it is way snappier and responsive than it was before the hg change.

 

I've been really working on the drivability part. I made some air bleed changes and it really helped the part throttle richness and am currently playing with timing to work the light throttle accel burble out of it.

I actually got it to make boost on the footbrake. Of course I couldn't hold the brakes hard enough to keep the rear wheels from spinning.

 

On the 79 I contacted Maximum motorsports and they set me up with a M/C and rear wheel cylinder combo that let me brake boost.