They have a small lip that over hangs. It looks like it might be easier to grind the lip than remove the whole disk. Do you think that would work?

 

I have done that both successfully and epic fail. Don't let it get too hot.

 

I keep hearing this over and over,but I've used heim jointed suspension on 2 cars,soon to be 3,and don't see where this comes from. No probs ,nice a smooth. I'll cop to not be talking about a daily driver though

 

They get noisier when they get worn out but I've driven them dd quite a few times. Only thing is it transfers noise as it's a solid connection.

 

I picked up some washers to use as spacers for the 70/30 they were not going to work I started to grind in one of the stuts and could see that it was going to take forever. So I put the KYBs back on for now.

I am thinking about the down pipe. I have a section of 4" pipe the exit of the turbo is 3". Seems like I have read that a larger DP can increase power. Is this a good idea?

The plan is to have a dump then transition to 3" back to super quiet dual 2.25 muffler / tail pipes. Which would be better a dump by the radiator or a dump by the flywheel?

 

Kevin;
I think this is more inline with what I was trying to say. Jack explains it much better:

https://www.corral.net/threads/opinions-on-bracing-a-8-8-housing.2366442/#post-17791562

 

It could be a good idea, usually you want something about 1.3x the turbine diameter for the downpipe. Going from 3-5" in an s472 combo improved spool by close to 1000 rpm for me. It may not make a lot more peak power, but could spool a little more quickly and be more responsive if you are small to start. Going down to 3" may or may not be a big deal, you would have to do some pressure measurements or timed runs to figure that out, could also do it with temp measurements and math. The 2.5" muffler seems an odd choice in a 3" system, turbo cars are usually pretty quiet, as long as it is near the back of the car its probably alright.

 

I assume I am one of one. This car is pretty much a garage queen / TNT car / Dragweek car. I drive it to the track because I don't like loading it on the trailer. Most of my street driving is at grandpa speeds, I do run it through the gears when it's safe. I am happy with the "street" power as it is now. I really want it to be quicker at the track. I would like it to run 10.0x so I can be competitive in the SME class at DW. I am not interested it heads up racing. I do think small time bracket racing might be fun.

When I was in college I was accused of being a grumpy old man, and nearly 20 years later it hasn't gotten any better. I want it to be as enjoyable as possible on long drives. So getting the noise down (way down! Like can't hear it on the highway) is the goal.

That's why I want the dump. Open it up at the track. Run the number cork it drive 250 miles with the a/c and radio on. I don't care if it looses 100+ HP through the mufflers as long as it not slower than it current is NA in street trim.

 

Haha, I have also been accused of being in my 70s most of my life. Nothing wrong with being comfortable

 

Me too. I built mine to drive in comfort or as comfortable as possible. I built it with quiet/comfort in mind so I have three mufflers (one I designed and built myself) all through full length 2.5" exhaust and the car makes over 900hp through the full length exhaust so no uncorking anything. Why work at the track when I don't have too..

ks

 

That's impressive! Do you have pictures? Or a build thread?

 

Just the website with pics:
https://www.baselinesuspensions.com/Projects/balrog.htm

ks

 

Very nice, maybe too nice to drive!

 

Thanks. It's nice to drive when working properly but had to revamp the complete turbo drain system which took a year then just a few months ago it was burning up #5 coil which somehow "fixed itself" last weekend. So it's all together now just in time to be stored for winter. Hopefully I will get to put some miles on it next year.

ks

 

I have set up a time to rent a dyno. The goal is to see how much power it's making like it sits then see if that can be improved. I figured it would be good to know what it likes NA before I turbo it.

This will be the first time the car has been dynoed. I plan to give the car a "pre-trip" and "nut and bolt" inspection, change the oil and fill it up with fuel. Any thing else I should do before? I plan to take my computer, timing light, and some basic hand tools. Anything else?

I looked at the data log from my last track day (installed coil overs and 28x9 ET Drags new best 60' 1.698 sec!). The target AFR was set at 12.8 and timing was 31.

I went back and read the advice that was given earlier this year. It was to start at 13.0 AFR and 28*. Then lean it out, 0.1 at a time until? Then add timing?

 

No input on that, but I'm gonna guess it makes 235-240hp at the tire. :0

 

I hope that's what I leave with, I am going to guess it's closer to 225 tire (or less) as it sits. Remember this is a STOCK engine from TB to oil pan. They only things helping it out are: shorties, H-pipe, flowmasters. Manual rack and electric fan.

 

Get rid of those flowbastards and I’m sure you’ll make more power

 

The plan is for them to go away with the turbo install. But their replacements may be more restrictive. I want it quiet with a dump.

 

I run a 3” glass pack into a Pypes Racepro and dump it right before the axle . It’s a little bit louder than stock but not by much.