Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

It's serious now --

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Once again, let's have a hand for Shaun's first welded intake! :clap: After watching him through a welder's helmet for an afternoon, all I can say is that I'm glad I didn't have to do it! The bungs are currently undersized (so warpage during welding wouldn't be a problem) and will be honed to size after the whole thing is sandblasted and painted. After a little plumbing and wiring, it'll be time to cruise this thing over to a real shop for the rest of the header fab work. Excitement!

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

As someone that has done that before, you owe him big

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

hahah, yeah it was a pain in the ass, but i think i got the hang of it by the 8th bung

For this job, Anthony got his manifold done for the price of some hot dogs and i got some practice welding cast with a sine wave machine. I think now that i got some practice under my belt, the next one will look a lot better. o well, its done and it works, the next one will be on our riddler car

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Hey, those were good hotdogs!!

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

what did you end up doing with the heat cross over?

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Good question - I should have taken pics of that, too....

I chopped the majority of it away with a cutoff wheel, and then when I went to true up the bottom side (so it would sit flat), I just milled everything else away. The 2 halves of this manifold were actually totally isolated, and there was an "equalizer" port right next to the cross-over (which got milled away as well), so Shaun had to weld those holes too. The big ugly hole you see used to be the choke tower, which was even uglier looking before I chopped it all out. When it's blasted and painted, it "should" disappear from plain view - if it doesn't, who cares, my car won't be up for Riddler awards anytime soon. Also - all the times I've run iron heads, I've blocked the crossover anyway.

I chopped the crossover away so the intake would sit on my valley plate when I put my Edelbrocks on......this is assuming I don't have my A/W tunnel ram done by then, which is probably a good assumption.

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Nice work
I did the same with my heat crossover so I can use a flat valley tray

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

There ya go! What intake is that, Perf RPM? I did it to my old RPM, too, when I was all ready to do the RB thing - I have two crossover pieces like that floating in the scrap bin, hahaha.

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Wow, your project is really ramping up. Good stuff. What do you plan to use for cooling of this multi-turbo'd beast?

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Thank you! I'm hoping this new radiator and Mark VIII fan keep temps reasonable. Shaun and I have an air-to-water tunnel ram sketched out (to preserve underhood order and keep the piping nightmare to a minimum), but that's going to require way more dedication and welding than either of us have time for now. I just wanted it running and boosting (small amounts) this summer, so this is just the "slap together" plan (with as much attention to detail as possible).

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

More needless and self-gratifying picture whoring

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All purpose fuel case. I was originally going make a plate to mount my pumps, but then I thought - why not a plate with some walls? This began life as a 4.5" x 4.5" extrusion from a commercial doorway. I snagged it from the guys next door, sectioned it an inch or so, milled the tops of the "walls" and then milled receiver grooves in the top plate. Currently it houses my Walbro 392GSL, filter, and Y block, and there's room for my secondary pump, its filter and its check valve. It keeps all that little crap nicely organized, it protects everything a lot better (good when you travel I-65 a lot - basically a dumping ground for shredded semi tires), and best of all - it's black and hides everything!

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Ooooooh, "Billet!!" This was the best idea I could come up with when relocating my alternator. It started as a big chunk of 7075, which I whittled on until this came out. But, I hate billet (at least on my car), so it still needs some flat black paint. The alternator is a 120A from a Caprice police car - $65, lifetime warranty from Advance. The Chevy "hockey stick" tension adjuster is hidden beneath it - also a bonus. Oh, and I had to reshape the bolt slot of the hockeystick in the Bostomatic because this thing uses a 10mm bolt instead of the 3/8" (I think?) bolt of the 10SI, but who cares.

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Everything is plumbed now, pretty much. -10 hose from the Y block to the rails and to the regulator. Totally unnecessary (esp when I go to 16 staged injectors), but I wanted to run -10 up the length of the car, and I figure the less different sizes of fittings and hose I have all over the car, the better. Each hose was pressure tested at 120psi before it went in. Did I mention I hate red and blue AN fittings? I also wish the dist. cap that works with the UPR reducer adapter came in black, but I'll be in EDIS land pretty soon anyway. Oh, my specially made driver's side valvecover does NOT clear the header we made (it's taller than the stockers, which clear perfectly), so it's at the shop waiting to be clearanced.

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This is the coolest part of my car. It took 2 hours to make and is about as big as a nickel. It's a barrel shaped crimper that slides into the 4.6L throttle arm and allows me to use the stock Chrysler throttle cable housing with a ball-ended BMX cable inside. It started as 7/16" stainless hex bar stock and uses an 8-32 cap screw (not pictured) to crimp down on the cable. Want to test your nerve? Use an 8-32 bottoming tap in stainless steel! Each cut makes that old familiar "oh shit!" tapping sound (tick! tick! tick!).

Anyway, just a little wiring (FAST harness, fan/fuel pump relays), a quickie downpipe for the old clunker manifolds and it's gonna run - progress is slow since I'm at school during the week. Then, gonna drive it to the shop and finish turbo plumbing....

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Looking good dude, love the fuel pump housing setup, nice fab work.

Oh dont worry about pic whoring, I think we are all a bunch of whores when it comes to that, LOL.


Hey you know better than that fuel line on the firewall

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Wait, are you not supposed to? My friend said no regulator on the firewall, but no lines either? I can shorten them and "float" them across I guess.....

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Well, to be honest I am not 100% sure, but they dont want Reg, I would think lines would be the same. The flywheel goes it will cut thro what ever is there. That is what I would expect the tech to say. Anyway its no biggy to fix. Keep a truckin you have a ways to go before thats a problem.

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

oke:

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Uh-oh.....I was hoping this thread would stay buried for the next 4 months or so, haha.

It needs another ~$200 to run (fluids, new battery - which I had but donated to my mom who needed one - wiring and relays) that I just cannot spend right now (summer school drained my savings completely). I think everyone can relate to "overbudget and underfunded." This thing has kept me in the poor house all through college; something that won't happen for my last semester (thru December). Then, I get a real job and will be able to finish it next spring. So, it's parked until December. What a soap opera!!

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

I hear ya man! I am not going to post up any build up pics of my ride until it runs. I'm like you, sometimes got the cash, sometimes I don't.

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

We all go through the lean times, it's what makes it all worth it in the end.

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Okay TRENDZ ("Mr. Post Something New" ) and Eldon (my TM.com sponsor, haha!), time to knock the dust off this thread and start pic whoring again!!!

Shaun and I took advantage of the warm weather today to get this senseless project back on target. Digging my car out of 6 months of post-winter muck was not a lot of fun, but the rest of the day was! Have a look (sorry for the mess):

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Figure 1: Here's the old square tube clothesline pole we used to pick up as many dimensions from our other header as possible. Hot tip: know what makes a really accurate (and dangerous) straightedge? An old F-40 flourescent bulb! Try it! Anyway, we laid everything out and tacked the turbo to the tube. Man, nothing beats working on a beater - writing dimensions all over your fenderwells and making hashmarks on your fenders with a Sharpie is priceless.

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Figure 2: I think we did pretty good! Here you can see the old driver's side header, which has been sitting out in the garage for a year and has that special "Mopar manifold" skim-coat of rust. That will be dealt with in short order.

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Clearance for the pass. front turbo's DP. I forgot to get pics of the header by itself, but it came together way faster, easier, and better than the driver's side. The merge took a little while to sculpt, but all the joints are very tight, as compared with the last one, which required much MIG "filling."

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If you look really fast at this pic, it looks like a normal TT kit. No, your eyes do not deceive you - the turbo on the left is a legit NOS 2.3L Garrett! The SVO guys are going to kill me - I found it on ebay for $300, and then sold $100 worth of the stuff I didn't need. I, too, was leery of the NOS claim, until I got it in my hands. The cast iron was totally fresh, all of the machined surfaces have fresh tool marks, and the shaft spins like a dreamboat. And now, my beat old 400" Chrysler motor (with much blowby likely) is going to carbon it all up. Wah-waaaaaaaaah!!!!!

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This isn't a very good picture, but I carefully masked all the important surfaces of my center sections and used that Dupli-Color 1200* stuff, to hopefully form some kind of barrier against turning into shitty rusty lumps. The snap-rings and bearings are in and lubed, and I need to do a little extra work on the rest of my beater housings to get them together, but I did test the shaft play on all of them. Sweet titties!

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For all the player haters that said I would melt my master cylinder...here's a pic of the area in question. Yeah, I know it's close, BUT - there is a lot of room for header wrap, heat shields, etc. If it melts anyway, I'll buy (ok, make) an offset master cylinder adapter like the hemi A body guys run. I feel a little better having seen a few working turbo setups with scary turbo-to-MC clearance, so I guess we'll see right?

We might be back at it to bust out the front flange tomorrow. After that it's WG piping (which will take a little strategy to pull off with elegance), downpipes (which should really be a breeze...dammit, I probably just jinxed myself), and the "temporary" cold side hat. So far, it's looking like I'll be able to run the valves by removing the cold-side piping only, and it all fits under the stock hood of course.

Questions I have for the court!!!!!

#1. If I fashion some kind of oil reservoir and gravity feed my rebuilt turbos, would it be safe to blast at them with the shop air to make sure they're spinning right and aren't crashing or doing anything wierd? As careful as I've been with everything...125,000 RPM is pretty taxing. Or am I just going nuts? The optical tach we have at work goes to at least 60,000 RPM. Just an idea. And, I really just want to hear these things scream by themselves, haha.

#2. Has anyone seen a ball-type exhaust flange anywhere? Or what? I'll probably drop by a Midas or something tomorrow to see what they have. I need 2.5" ones.

#3. Does anyone have a spare clip/strap for a T3 compressor housing plate?? I am short ONE by some miracle, and I have no idea where I could even buy one (without spending thousands, of course). If you have one and could part with it, I will make it worth your time for sure.

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

On the ball type flange I found some but they were $40 a set do I went to the local exahust guy and they only charged me for the pipe and the hold downs for something like $20