Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Won't the rails that were on the old intake work with your new setup?

You can have them.....if I get the Lenco in trade.

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Ya they will, but god they look like shit . You can have my broken lenco shifter knob in trade .

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Can anyone recommend a good water-cooled wallet? AEM single channel and a pair of Turbosmart "Sleeper" 38s:
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They're flat black, and they're part of the "sleeper series," so how could I resist?
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I walked into the local "tuner" shop here (run by a few buddies) demanding Tials and walked out with these. Basically, he had 2 of these in stock, and black Tials required ordering and waiting (his supplier was out). Also, he gave me a screaming deal on these (less than I've seen them on eBay - without shipping!), they come with EVERYTHING, and they're about 1/2" shorter than Tials (I know I'll have slight packaging problems). When I brought them home, I did a little digging and found this old thread: https://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=48967.0 - so I'm pretty happy.

"How many of these are you building?" Some of my junk before being sent to Area Diesel in Carlinville, IL (back next week, machined and balanced):
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The end is in sight.............

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Sump is welded into place! Big ups to Shaun (Twin Trouble) for welding paper-thin galvanized sheetmetal to nickel plated sheetmetal (with big hairy gaps inbetween). :clap: Tested BONE DRY on the first try! I found some rubbery undercoat stuff to mimic the stock undercoating, so this will be the last time the shiney nickel plate sees the light of day. Awww!! On the plus side, you will have to be looking REALLY hard to see it (I think it will be the only thing that visually gives the car away).

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Cleaned up manual steering box - No, the turbo setup doesn't require it, but to me, a car with power steering with manual brakes seems kind of dumb. That, and my power box is leaky. Also, notice the factory coupler with a zerk fitting (actually just a 1/4 - 28 nut) welded to it.

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Oil pan return fittings and hole caps don't leak, either (and now they're painted).

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Here's a good one - did you know the most expensive Autometer gauge also makes a great stand for old BMX pedals?

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That's all for now - I'm goin' drinkin!

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Can you really use a stock pan on a big block of that kind of power, using an HV oil pump? Will pan evacuation be a problem?

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

First, who said anything about an HV pump? Gonna try out the stock clunker and see where I'm at.

I have run a HV pump in all the years I've had a BB in the car, and yes, you're right, the rearward "slosh" in conjunction with the extra oil pumping used to uncover the pickup. Once I put in that baffle, the problem went away. It should be even better with the stocker. Also, horsepower doesn't really enter into it - it's engine speed and what gets fed down the line. I will have 4 hair-dryers to feed in addition to old, sloppy clearances though...... :hmm: Regardless, a new HV waits on the shelf if it presents an issue.

I'm not using this pan cause I'm cheap - nobody makes an aftermarket C-body pan (which has a very important and hard-to-graft notch for the idler arm). When I have more time to play with it, I'll probably mod this one for added capacity. Oh, the joys of owning a C-body.

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

<--------- C-Body owner. I understand perfectly.

I'm putting together a bit of a dry sump system for my car. It will cost a bit more skrilla, but it should be worth it. 8)

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

I see - another C-body knucklehead huh?? I'd be really interested to see your dry sump plans (since I'm not all that thrilled about my own setup).

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Right now it is still in planning stages, but basically, I am going to run a 6 stage manifolded pump, 2 suction from the pan, 1 from the turbo's independent sump (for optimal drainout and de-aeration) and 2 from the cylinder heads to prevent pooling during hard cornering and high rpms. The heads do not have drainback holes anyway, so it works out favorably.

I have a 1968 Plymouth Fury Convertible 4-speed that this is all going into. Right now, most of my work goes into the chassis, where much strengthening and restoration is being done. I have subframe connectors, torque boxes front and rear, "double-A" brace across the chassis, and everything has been seam welded. I'm debating whether or not I will fill the frame rails with a structural foam. The Japs have used this trick for years to stiffen chassis of their road racers, and it would make the car quieter as well.

I'm trying to avoid having to use a roll bar by making the chassis as stiff as possible from the underside, under the hood, and in the trunk. I've been considering making the transmission tunnel out of box steel and linking it to the subframe connectors and to the est of the reinforcements to make it one stiff 'vert.

As a more economical dry sump option, I had considered using a simple 2 stage scavenge pump, and then using an "external pickup" style RB oil pump as the pressure pump coming back from the dry sump tank. That would save a LOT of money.

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Looks good AF....

Lets get my stupid shortblock put back together saturday and then i can try to weld up your intake manifold.

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Tony you are one very tallented DUDE........

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Thanks, I'll take it! But actually, without Shaun-o's welding skills, I would be up Dawson's Creek without a paddle, and would probably be driving a Jetta.

Someone or something really does not want me to put this car together. The power-to-manual steering coupler I bought (which is supposed to work on all vintage Chryslers) wasn't even CLOSE on my car, so I have make one myself before I can drop the motor in. The coupler I needed to accomplish this was in an order that got bungled by Summit (which, besides needlessly killing my credit card, will arrive much later than anticipated).

But, if it was easy, then everyone would be doing it, right?

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Anthony, do you have any pics of the oil pan baffling that you mentioned. I am wanting to increase the capacity of an oil pan for a project under construction (not Mopar, sorry) and am worried about slosh.
Thanks- Eldon

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Eldon - okay, here are some pics. Remember, don't laugh:

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Again, nobody makes a "high performance" C-body oil pan. If they did, I'd gladly buy it. If your application has a buyable hotrod oil pan, buy it and do not waste time screwing around with a stocker (unless you're in some contest where you have to put an entire car together for $2000).

Here are some bonus pics.......
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Turbo inlets and outlets are done. All feature an O-ring for sealing - can you imagine trying to buy gaskets for these from NAPA? "Sorry sir, I am not showing any turbocharger parts for a 1968 Plymouth Fury."

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I bought a Lokar SS oil dipstick for $10 (mail order). The guy failed to tell me that he bent and gouged the crap out of the part that goes into the block, but hey, what did I expect for $10? After realizing that trying to bend the SS tube back into a shape that would work inside a hole made with an interference fit was a waste of time, I chopped it off, bored and counterbored a 7/16-20 bolt, and tapped the block to accept it. While I had the tap checked out from the library, I did my other block.

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Here is a steering coupler that will actually work!! The one I purchased (from a company that will remain nameless) was short by 15/16". When I called them to tell them, their attitude was "nope, never had that problem, you're the first! Not interested in your combo either, cause our stuff always works!" Class A Jagoffs. I made my own better one for about 1/10th of their truly outrageous fee (they did accept a return and issue a full refund though). If you need a power-to-manual coupler made, let me know first.

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Motor's in!

Hey, wasn't this thread about an intake and throttle body? Hopefully done this weekend. Everything is in my basement ready to go......just have to get welding finished, plumb, wire, and fire. Now, if it were only that easy, right?

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Anthony- thanks for the oil pan pics. I had something like that in mind but it gives me a little more confidence seeing one done by someone else. Probably going to add a kick out to the side also for another quart or two of capacity.
Great to see your project coming along. Your brand of DIY is just my style!

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

So... is it done NOW??


TONAAAAAAY!!!!

Check your e-mail, my friend. Good to see progress on teh Fury!

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Okay, the throttle body is finally done! Obligatory pop can shot - I think the ISO spec officially calls for a Mountain Dew in "scale" pictures, but this was the best I could do.

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Counterbores for socket head cap screws and accepts ultra common 4.6L TPS, spring, bearings, o-rings, and spring backing plate. I know, it's only 88mm or so (the smallest I could get the 3.5" stock to turn down to), but I have a feeling it will be enough. If you're keeping score, I didn't spend any money on this at all - the stock was all found laying around our shop. I did purchase some ground/polished 10mm stock for eventual replacement of this shaft, but this one will work great. Not bad for free huh?

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I had to relocate my radiator to the front of the support in order to fit my Mark VIII fan. This was not necesary for turbos, but they definitely aren't going to help underhood heat during a Kennedy traffic jam on a 100* summer day. Some guys get away with cutting the shroud thinner, but as soon as you take a knife to it, you erase all the hours of design and testing done by OEM engineers. That, and even with the shroud totally removed it wouldn't fit. I couldn't push the stock rad forward because it wouldn't clear the frame tie, so I found this shorter one on sale from Summit. The support is a little hacked - I went ballistic with a sawzall on it to be sure it would fit (so I could send it back if it didn't), but I'll do a nicer job on another one sometime. Shaun welded the tabs to the back of the tanks to allow easy bolt in, and the rest is history. This thing needs a 75amp relay to operate (I think it's 40A continuous and over 90A on startup)......it will mess up your hairdo from the driver's seat with the hood down and the windows up! I'm still looking for a good weatherstripping type product that can withstand 200*+ to seal it to the support....any recommendations?

Also, did you notice the stock valve covers? They're not! Look closer, they're actually old Weiands with the fins milled off. Milling them flat left a gaping hole in the center, so Shaun welded those up too.

"You can have any color you want on a motor, as long as it's this fruity turquoise." - Walter P. Chrysler

Actually, I consider it classical conditioning....turquoise looks slower to Chrysler fans.

Stay tuned for fuel system case pictures! I should be driving this hunk of garbage soon......

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

This build is awesome!! Actually I don't know what enjoy more, the lowbuck nature with some wicked machining thrown in, or the comical commentary.
Anthony, one thing I was wondering about, did you seal the inside of your sumped fuel tank?
Can't wait to see more!

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Thanks man! I did not seal my tank - I thought about it, but something about that process rubs me the wrong way. The guy who plated my sump has a tank big enough to fit my entire tank in it, but the prep work would be a pain. Ehhhh, the whole car is rust anyway - why try and stop a good thing?

 

Re: Intake / throttle body spy photos

Anthony- I am the same way with tank sealer. Never had experience with it, but have head of it ending up in filters and pumps. I'm sure it's like anything else, don't do it right or used cheap stuff and it will come back to bite you. I once had fuel cell foam plug a filter on the nitrous side and it cost me pistons and a block. The way I see it, if the sump always stays submerged in fuel it shouldn't rust....right? I hate cars sometimes!!!

On another note, to seal your fan shroud to the radiator, you could take regular ol' fuel hose and split it open lengthwise. that would give you a cheap rubber seal that should last through the heat. I use fuel hose to protect things from rubbing through and it seems to work fine.

-Eldon