Desirable is in the eye of the beholder. The early ones supposedly have a better lubrication circuit on them for the (rear I believe) planetary. They will not work with a later ECU however, so if you're wanting to use a production box with it ever I wouldn't hold my breath. The other thing is that for a car with a transmission tunnel, the later ones have horrid placement of the cooler lines; The early boxes have the lines where a regular 350/400 does. I just bolted my 700R4 lines to mine no problem.

Van's stalled like a bitch. Keep swinging back and forth in my mind about parting it. With the Lemans here, it's like someone buying their kid a puppy before they put their old dog down. The TPI intake is pissing me off to an extent I can't hardly express, I need to pull it apart again to fix a Cobra injector issue and they just suck to work with.

Honestly, what I was thinking about was doing something like another Chicago legend, Nick Scavo except plumb one turbo to each inlet.

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May be hitting the yard Monday to look at some C1500 spindles for the Lemans. I think I figured out the issue with Caprice Spindle swaps on A-bodies; It's that people are using Caprice Spindles!

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I looked through the thread and could not find where the smooth aluminum valve covers came from. Did you just mill the fins off a set of MP covers, or did you CNC those like everything else aluminum on the car?

 

Correct, they are old Weiands with the fins milled off and with a plate welded into the void left behind, haha. I'm thinking of chopping my own out but I have way bigger fish to fry before I get to that point, haha.

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Update: my Edelbrocks got sent out to Scott Brown about a month ago

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and if my calculations are correct, should already be ported and will spec out as follows, except on steroids:

http://www.buyracingparts.com/cnc-p...rpm-big-block-mopar-heads---street-strip.html

(Steroids being in the form of inconel exhaust valves, killer valvesprings and clearances for things which will get to be "turbo" hot.)

I talked to Bud (my old boss) and he said he'd do my shortblock, so it's on me to dig it out / haul it up. Oh, and write the check because I'm a yuppie who can't be bothered with any of this crap anymore (I keeeeed, I keeeeed). Right now we have Aaron's Caprice to start wrecking and the day job's shop is moving quarters, bitching up the works dramatically. Draconic and I might go junkyard crawling for a 4L80E soon, too.

Shaun and I discussed digging the big ol' bitch out and doing brakes and head gaskets for a 2-pronged Shaunthony's attack on the Streator Labor Day cruise in a month....there'll be pics either way if that happens so stay tuned.

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Are we doing this? I think were doing this!

 

Let the games begin! <maniacal laughter>

Can't wait to see what mayhem ensues.

 

thank fuck this thread is back

 

I was like "man those heads are sorta small" till I saw that I was looking at the exhaust side. Make that block scream, then make it cry.

 

Well, I spent some time on the Bridgeport helping a good buddy clearance his LS block for a stroker assembly. He paid me with the thing which was bolted to the back of that LS block:

After reading the FAQ on the Jake's performance page.....I'm not 100% sure this is what I want/need, but at the very least I can start blueprinting / getting a feel for adaptation. This is a 2006, and since I was in for the mechanical speedo tailshaft and housing conversion anyway this should still work. Outside of the inconveniently placed cooler lines, what do you think? My official platform on bastardizing is: pick the most famous / handily available thing to source when your bastard fails, haha. Per Jakes, they like the older versions for full-kill builds. 1000HP + 4500lbs? Yeah....I think we will need to *start* at full-kill and go from there. Either way, I am super pumped about all the cool options they can do for this thing.

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Nice may need to mfg a tail shaft for it believe the output is different. Or awd conversions.

 

Ooh, AWD 1000hp quad turbo EFI Fury?

 

This is a pretty cool build. I dig it.

 

Thanks bud.

Okay, I need help on (one) crazy dream of mine. This time I'm going to enlist the expertise of everyone here on Turbomustangs, or, if you have friends who work at Napa or Autozone and who are not on turbomustangs and want to split the reward, feel free.

Disclaimer: I know that a car which is about to have this kind of power hauling this much weight should actually have some insane aftermarket 15" rotor stuff like Nigel Tufnel's car, but I haven't quite figured out how to make the cop rims work with those. Well, and, all of that stuff is zillions of dollars. So, until the time which I do...

The factory spindles on my car require a 1-pc. rotor/brake hub. It's bad enough we're mostly at the mercy of 3rd world prison labor for rotors and stopping power, but there's no fucking way I'm going to trust Chinese metallugy to holding my 4500lb car off the ground and keeping it rolling (which is exactly where all currently available options are made). I just can't.

Luckily (?) the hubs and rotors on my car are made in two pieces, and are held together with the studs. Once I cut the crimps off the studs and press them out, I'll at least have a gin-u-wine hub made out of something better than compressed cheese-whiz and ready to accept a fresh Chinese made rotor.

I have $100 U.S.D. for the first person to come up with a rotor (application) which meets this criteria:

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There is some wiggle room to the dimensions. For instance I should be able to chop something in the 12" diameter range down, or take some of the hub face out or just live with some pad offset if it's close. Hub diameter isn't super super critical either. Bolt pattern can be ANYTHING as long as it's 5x(something). I should be able to make some 6x patterns work depending on the circle, but 5x is going to be the goal here.

"Well how do I do this?" You can putz around on Autozone.com (like I've been doing for the past few hours) - they have all the dimensions listed for their stuff. Or you can have some idea of some application which has something like this. Or maybe you have something in your house which is like this. Closest I've gotten so far is a mid 2000s 1-ton 2WD GMC front rotor and I think there was an early 2000s Explorer rotor which kinda looked close, but so far no dice. If nobody comes up with anything I'll up the ante. Feel free to share with your friends, post on other websites, etc.

T.I.A.

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Why can't you just use '73 up unicast 11.75 C-body rotors with some spindle sleeves like doctor diff sells? The C-body rotor is 1.25" thick, was made for your suspension geometry, has your bolt pattern, studs are already pressed in, and you could probably score a set of spindles cheaper than your time to machine the sleeves and brackets. This way you could concentrate on making some brackets to mount four piston calipers.

'73 was a one year only deal as far as bearing sizes. '74-up was common year to year.

 

http://www.truckcomponentsonline.com/LIGHT-DUTY-ROTORS_c_1103.html D4832 looks close. It's a little smaller but might be something else on that
page you could use.

 

Those dimensions Seem to look like the Aussie commodore disc. Check out the Pontiac G8 rotors.

They slip onto a hub, but thats small details. im sure you could easliy machine one up to suit your spindle/bearings

 

Believe it or not, this is something that's sort of a side hobby of mine in an odd way. Here we go:

Lets start out real simple:

LS1 Camaro rotor:
303MM
52mm OAH
32.2mm thick
5X4.75 pattern
hub center 70.6mm

C5 rotor wil be dimensionally the same, better vanes though and directional as well.

09 Dakota 4WD:
312MM diameter
197.4mm "hat" diameter
28mm thick
65.9mm overall diameter

I think the winner will be a Dodge RAM 4X4 1500 rotor:

295mm diameter
32.6mm thickness
65.5mm ovearll height
187mm "hat" diameter

Just FYI *ALL* 6 lug tires use the same pattern based on my understanding of it. That's everything from a 4WD truck to a Datsun Diesel 1/4 ton. You would probably be trouble ahead to find 6 lug rotors if you're going that route. If you're going that route, I'll throw in this 86 C1500 4WD rotor too.

Bolt Pattern Diameter (mm):	139.7
Rotor Bore Diameter (mm):	101.69
Rotor Initial Thickness (mm):	32.89
Rotor Outside Diameter (mm):	301
Rotor Overall Depth (mm):	58.8

 

You are 100% correct that the '73 unicast would screw right on to my 70-72 knuckle with adapter sleeves, except not only does it put me back into the predicament of Chinese bullshit supporting the front end of my car, it also puts me in "do I really want an adapter there?" territory. I understand that my entire car is adapters, but if any of that self-made garbage stops working I can say "oh darn," push the car off the road and call a towtruck. The stuff that keeps the car on the road is sacred to me. Is this totally irrational? Consider the time I pole-vaulted my car over a 10" high median (in the rain, to avoid a swerving broad)...not only did the car stay in one piece and allow me to steer around oncoming traffic, but it kept the alignment! Also consider my friend's run-in with Chinese spacers which adapted newer fancy wheels onto his freshly painted and put together '68 Cougar. In his words, he was passed by his own front wheel. Yikes. No thank you. The Michigan State Patrol kept picking/recommending these cars because they stayed together during "launches" better than anything else. FWIW.

DUDE, this is excellent (see below). Is there any way to get them to tell you what application that is? I.E. what I could tell someone at Autozone/Napa to look up for me?

Not a bad guess, see below.

Okay, I drew everybody's suggestions up and pasted them on top of the existing rotor. I centered the "x" around the centers of both rotor thicknesses. I thought there was going to be one and one only clear winner, but now I'm not so sure. Because of this amazing effort - I'll definitely say that in addition to the $100 first prize, first runner up is going to get their choice of L or XL Shaunthony's T-shirt (when I get them back from the printer, grrrrrrrrrr). I'm gonna narrow it down, source the closest ones and "feel them out," and then return the ones which don't make it.

http://www.tonybob.com/images/fury/2013/D4832.jpg
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Again, is there any way to find out what this is actually for? Barring some kind of freak hub diameter this is an EXTREMELY SERIOUS contender.

http://www.tonybob.com/images/fury/2013/G8.jpg
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Close.....not as close as Drac0nic's LS1/C5 example (both need to have 1/2"+ come from somewhere).

http://www.tonybob.com/images/fury/2013/LS1_C5.jpg
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THIS is beyond diabolical, but it's 9/16" short. OTOH if I think of some way to make that up (and I might), I could get totally slick with slotting/venting and annoying Corvette people AND possibly supporting the American aftermarket.

http://www.tonybob.com/images/fury/2013/09DAK4X4.jpg
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This is AWESOME except I'm slightly skeptical about the rotor thickness. Discard thickness on my junk is 1.180".

http://www.tonybob.com/images/fury/2013/RAM4X41500.jpg
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THIS. SO MUCH. A LOT. 1/16" off the face, accommodate for stud knurls and I'm off to the races. Is there a year for this magic Ram 4X4 1500 or is it all the same?

http://www.tonybob.com/images/fury/2013/86_C1500.jpg
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Not a bad attempt here either, but too short and depending on what size stud holes they've got on that pattern, it might be curtains.

Any other guesses / ideas? The "D4832" and Ram 4x4 are way out front.....the Corvette idea is still in the race. It might come down to which is easiest to source....for instance, even the '73 unicast rotors for my car aren't exactly a stocking item; a situation I'd like to avoid if possible.

 

P.S. Hey Donk, Imma send you a Shaunthony's T-shirt anyway in exchange for the Batman Pizza swag you sent me! PM me...

I've been switching back and forth between "D4832" and the Ram 4x4....the main dimensions are within "metric rounding." Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. I'll call those lobos on Monday and see if they'll tell me what their magic numbering system means. The website doesn't list a hub face diameter so it still might be different than the Ram 4x4.

 

Emailed them about D4832 but probably nothing til monday. I'll poke around and see if I can come up with something.

Also found this ACDR026 SOLID 279.0 8.5 10.5 70.0 67.0 5 5.0 http://www.acdelco.com.au/PDFs/Catalogue_ACDelco_Rotors.pdf

Fits 91-93 Holden Commodore rear disc. Only place I found them was on ebay shipped from Australia though.

 

I believe it was an 03. Can probably find one at the yard here for a princely sum of about 12 bucks to destroy. The dumbest questions of all I have are:

1)Why go to 6 lug? Are you taking this thing "mudding?"
2)Are you constraining yourself to stock calipers and if so why? There are probably a ton of better choices out there, with aftermarket support
3)Are you constraining your self to 15" front wheels? Options go up considerably for larger wheels. I threw 16" GTAs on the Lemans for that reason. Hell run em in the front 15s in the back with your slicks or whatever crazy stuff you're going to do
4)Are the caliper mounts separated from the spindle its self? If the answer to this is yes, I will point you back to #2/3.
5)Since you got a 4WD trans and T-case, and you're talking about 6 lug am I crazy enough to have missed the part of the build where you mentioned you were going to get a D44 or up front or something? I may be totally off my rocker with this one but with you guys are a wild card unto yourselves.
6)TTF needs a Chicago Pizza night or something, we need to bounce this around some. Honestly My project is acting so out of hand I think it has "Acme" parts in it somewhere I have as of yet to figure out!