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Project Copy Cat - '90 coupe 351W/76mm/MS DIYPNP

Discussion in 'The Turbo "Builds" Board' started by hoopty5.0, Apr 12, 2016.

  1. hoopty5.0

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2012
    Yes, I am using the cherry sensor. I'm waiting on a new balancer to be delivered. Need to fix the run out issue first, but the gap was set to .035"
     
  2. Disney Lincoln

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2003
    Ok. Are you fairly certain you have it at 90* to the wheel? Might try closing it up to .025. Reason I say that is I don't think .010 out is going to cause sync losss especially at cranking speed. Assuming you have the 1K pull up installed?
     
  3. hoopty5.0

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2012
    Sorry, was out of town all weekend. I'm really not sure of anything. I ran head first into this blind, so I'm going to start from scratch and pay a lot more attention this time. New balancer will be delivered today, so I'll yank the old one, remove the trigger wheel and see where it takes me.
     
  4. hoopty5.0

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2012
    At long-freaking-last, I think I have my truck squared away so I can focus on the car again. I have a plan to get the trigger wheel mounted to the new balancer, will try and get that done this week and see if this pig will finally start after being down a year and a half. ugh.
     
    Nortex likes this.
  5. nxcoupe

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2008
    Good luck! Mine has been down going on 4 weeks now. Waiting in line to get the broken header fixed. Keep posting progress
     
    hoopty5.0 likes this.
  6. hoopty5.0

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2012
    Thanks! So the wheel is bolted to the balancer. The runout is .005 left/right and .015 up/down if you’re looking at it on the engine. Are those tolerances good enough?
     
  7. hoopty5.0

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2012
    Alrighty, the wheel is bolted/welded on, the pick up is temporarily mounted so I can see if this is going to work. Assuming I can't get this to work, I'm ditching the DIS and going back to TFI. I've only got an hour a day to work on it anymore, so I just can't work through issues like I used to be able to.

    Cross your fingers that this works! I'll build a better mount for the trigger assuming this is successful.

    [​IMG]#ad
     
  8. hoopty5.0

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2012
    Got the trigger working pretty well last night. It decided it liked 12v feed and not 5v. Still wont run.
    Tonight, I am going to verify that the spark outputs are firing the correct plugs and that the timing is correct. Past that, I'm clean out of ideas. It acts like it wants to start, but wont.
     
  9. nxcoupe

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2008
    What's your timing light say the timing is set at when you are cranking? You need to make sure it is firing when it's supposed to be. Just put light on amd have someone crank it while you watch the timing pointer.
     
  10. hoopty5.0

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2012
    It matches what fixed timing is set at.
    Been a while since I updated - went on vacation for a while. Anyway, we've ruled out the ignition system, it all works as it should. We've decided the issue is in the tune - toooooo much fuel. What's incredibly odd is it's the exact same setup and tune the car was running on before. No idea why it doesn't like it now.
    Going to try an updated tune that cut a considerable amount from the req fuel and VE and see where that gets us tonight.
     
  11. hoopty5.0

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2012
    I think I have fuel issues now

     
  12. hoopty5.0

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2012
    At long, long last, the fkn thing runs again. I had been using the shielded wire bundle in the factory harness and wasn't getting a good enough signal to the MS. I bought some shielded wire and ran a dedicated line to the MS directly from the sensor, hopped in the car to take a datalog, and twisted the key.

    ruh-ruh-VROOOMM. I had a full scale freak out, mainly because I had 0% confidence that this was going to work.

     
    captaingriffin and 1966Mustang like this.
  13. nxcoupe

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2008
    Lol! Great video! Congrats. Glad you got it going. Sounds a little lean now but you'll get her dialed in.
     
  14. hoopty5.0

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2012
    Yeah, I have no idea where it is. I bought a spacer for the damper/crank pulley so I can put the belt back on, need to make a 'real' crank trigger bracket with a timing pointer to re-verify timing, and I need to figure out why my AFR gauge isn't powering on. Then, we can start working on making it run right.
     
  15. hoopty5.0

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2012
    I keep forgetting to update this thread. Here's the cliff notes:
    - Had a nasty oil leak, turned out to be the timing cover crank seal got eaten somehow. It's fixed.
    - Made a new crank trigger mount/timing pointer
    - put a new starter in.
    - coated some clamps and stuff to make it a little prettier.

    It's just about ready to drive, I need to figure out how I'm going to control the e-fan. I think I'm going to build a new circuit in MS and have it control a relay big enough to handle the fan.

    5026B437-EA9F-4043-96F9-405986E4F8C8.JPG #ad
    IMG_1605.jpg #ad
     
  16. hoopty5.0

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2012
    I drove the car around a little. Something happened in the settings, the dwell was still setup for TFI and I roasted 3 coils. The replacements should be here today.

    Also, my oil leak is still there for some reason.

    I really hope I can get it sorted out soon. The weather is really nice and I'd love to get some miles logged!
     
  17. nxcoupe

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2008
    Hope you get it sorted out soon. Is the seal still leaking?
     
  18. hoopty5.0

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2012
    That's all I can imagine it is. I put a new seal in and lubed it up before the balancer went back on. I can't figure out what else it could be from. The turbo is dry, so it's coming from somewhere around the front of the engine.
     
  19. nxcoupe

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2008
    What pan is on the engine?
     
  20. hoopty5.0

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2012
    a crown vic pan, same thing as the FRPP swap pan.

    I'm going to get it running again and jack it up so I can get under it running with a drop light and see if I can tell what's going on.
     
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