I want to say both. If I fix the timing at 20 degrees and put the timing light on the balancer and quickly rev it, it stays at 20. If I slowly increase the throttle, the timing retards to 10 by 3500 rpm.

 

ah, yeah it definitely shouldn't retard with timing fixed. you've had other people's eyes on your tune right? To make sure nothing is set incorrectly?

 

post a screen shot of that timing table for reference if you get a minute

 

Yep. Quite a few, haha

 

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ignition table goes to 200kpa (14.7psi) but you're making 224+kpa at 18psi. Wonder if it is acting funny after it surpasses your table limits.

 

wouldn't explain your ratarding with fixed timing and free revving but it could explain the lack of power if it's killing timing past 14psi. are you fuel and AFR tables set up this way too?

 

Doubtful. Anything above the table and it uses the top limits, so 18-20 degrees depending on the cell it's referencing. whatever is happening happens @ 3500 rpm.

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You can see the curves have a large rate of change before 3500 and then level off before increasing at a lesser rate up to 6,000 rpm. Something is coming on and killing power. This was from a dyno pull last week.

 

Are you seeing a good timing mark on the plugs ground strap? Have you ever checked for TRUE TDC?

 

Not sure what you mean with the plugs, but yes on TDC

 

Are the coil on plug parts still on the way?

 

It's all here but the mods for the MS!

 

I wouldn't mess with anything else, until you do that swap. If it's still having the timing issues after that, then look further into it.

 

You mind sending me a list of what you bought for the conversion, minus the MS stuff of course. I just bought a new $200 coil but i think i might send it back and just start buying the coil on plug stuff.

 

Gonna have to turn some material off of the balancer in order to correct the offset created by the toothed wheel?

 

He meant "read the plugs" by looking at the ground strap. there will be a line on the strap that indicates the engines timing or tells you where it wants to be. Hard to read when the plugs are sooty and black though

 

I gotcha. I have a new theory though...


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I learned that anti lag is basically a device that pulls timing to build boost. If you look at my data log, boost builds to about 5-6 psi and levels off for a couple hundred rpm. Right about the time boost starts climbing again is when the car falls on it's nose which is when I think the timing is going to 0.

I think the spring in my WG is a 5-6 psi spring but the timing is causing the overboost. Thoughts?

 

Soo you have antilag turned on?

 

Not that I know of, I dont think there is a setting in TS for that.

 

Ahh I see what you're saying. It's overboosting due to the timing pull, accidentally. Odd because isn't the overboost protection just a timing function? or is it fueling?