Radiator Cap? :scratch:
From 96 to 2008 Ford did not make a Mustang with a cap on the radiator...LOL
What are you taking about? :hmm: HONDA?

 

Doesn't hurt making the radiator cap the highest point in the system by jacking up the front of the car.

 

The procedure we use is to fill the cooling system through the water crossover tube between the cylinder heads with the cap remove from the header tank.
When the header tank fills , we tighten the cap & continue filling the crossover tube, Once the tube is full, the engine is started. The technician monitors the engine while it warm up,feeling the thermostat housing periodically, to feel when the thermostat has open.Once the thermostat has opened, we continue monitoring, until the cooling fan has turn on, cooled the radiator,then shut off. Once this has occurred, the engine is allowed to cool & then topped off through the header tank.
If the thermostat fail to open , as it occasionally does, shut the engine off & let it cool, then restart the warm-up procedure.
On thing we do which helps considerably is to drill a small air bleed hole in the edge of the thermostat. I notice the factory caught on to this idea in 2003 with cobra.
We still drill a second hole on those as well...

ps # A temperature gun is your friend, I alway use one pointed at the thermostat housing to make sure it opens.fans on or not

 

For the head gasket leak- you could have an oil port bleeding off to a coolant port. Nothing to do with a compression leak or an overheat condition. This could be caused by a poor/incorrectly finished head/blcok surface, some oil running out of the head and on to the suface when assembling, loose head bolt, dirt on the sealing surface.

If you had an air pocket, then you most likely would have noticed a drop in the coolant level during the 250 miles you put on the engine, have poor and or erratic heat from your defroster, erratic temp readings on your coolant temp gauge, and the upper hose may not get hot with an opened T-stat. How much coolant did you put in the engine when you filled the system. If you only put a gallon in, then you will have major issues. If you put in roughly what you took out, then you should be ok as there won't be any big air pockets. I have had to remove heater hoses and pressurize the cooling system to push air pockets through. Never ever had an issue with a huge air pocket on a mustang. I have always jacked the car up so the fill port of the degas bottle is higher than the rest of the cooling system. Fill the system, run until upper hose and defrost have heat . Monitor the temp gauge at all times.
You will always have air pockets during the initial fill. The water pump and heat will aid in removing them.

 

Some people don't know this so I'll just throw it out there. The 05-up Mustangs do not have a coolant temp sensor. They have cylinder head temp sensors. The engine coolant temp is then infered from the head temp.

 

I agree.

 

That is past the yield of ARP head studs. I would wonder if you streached the bolt to the point it is no longer holding torque. The ARP torque spec for head studs are 65 ft lbs. That is not at the yeild of the bolt and it can be pushed a little farther but not 100 ft lbs.

 

if he got the 3v specific studs they are only made in the ARP 2000 material, which is supposed to be torqued to 90ftlbs with motor oil and 100 with arp lube.

 

paper that came with the studs also said 90 ft lbs. if that were the case i would probably have alot more problems any way.

 

I agree
ARP head studs 85/90
ARP main studs 60/65

 

I was not aware that the standard 3v studs were 2000 meterial. The torque spec with oil would be the higher of the 2 specs. Either way 100 with arp lube would be fine in that case.

 

I agree on the torque spects.!

The moly ARP lube works better 65 ft-lbs
I torque mine to 100 with 30w oil no problem, but that just me.
There is another company here that torque them to 100 ft-lbs with 30w oil on the race car as well.....

 

Do you retorque them after a couple heat cycles?

 

NO just when I buit the motor <1 time> but that just me......

 

yeah,just to clarify,i did do them to 100ft-lbs and did not re-torque them. i just got home after a 15 hour drive from indiana. tomorrow i will start digging into the problem.

not sure how im going to start just yet,the car has been sitting for 6 days so if there is water in the oil,and i pulled the drain plug wouldnt the water come out first?

im not 100% sure there is water in the oil,i just suspect it at this point.i thought of shooting some air into the turbo feed line because it goes directly to the oil filter mount and see if i get any bubbles in the coolant tank,all those parts are connected to each other.obviously i dont want to start pulling heads with out having an idea on which one to pull????

 

im wondering if i cracked the oil filter mount when i installed the brass nipple for the turbo feed line, i really cranked it in there.

 

You may want to check ,that can cause that too..

 

im really wondering if i even have a problem,lol.

the car has been sitting for 6 days,untouched. i rolled the car back with out starting it, jacked it up and pulled the oil drain plug. i could be wrong but i expected that over those 6 days the oil/water would have seperated and water would have droaned out followed by the oil. i used a funnel when draining the water and put all the oil in clean containers. the first bath i put in a clear glass and i dont see ANY signs of water what so ever.

i would have expected to see more oil in the coolant resvoir also after letting it sit for six days, but no more than when i left it.

when i filled the oil i was 1/2 qt shy of the full line on the dip stick and that what it still shows, water has gone down but that could have been from air pockets in the system.

im not even sure what to do now? do i put more oil in it and let it rip or what?


another thing i tried was shooting air up thru the turbo/oil feed line to see if any bubbles would come up the coolant and none did, actually made the oil come back thru the drain hose and backwards thru the turbo and out thru the oil adaptor.

i thought i had water in the oil because i pulled the oil cap off and there was some white/milky stuff on the cap,it wasnt much but it concerned me with it being a new motor, also i could not figure out how in the world oil would make it into the coolant tank,maybe 3-4 cap fulls of oil.

any ideas on checking the oil for water if i cant see it??

 

Which head gaskets (part number) did you use? If you have oil in the coolant tank, then you do have a problem somewhere for sure. It is possible to get oil in the water but not the other way around. Think about it this way. Oil pressure is way higher than water pressure will ever be. I have seen head gaskets that are cut for the non-recessed oil feed hole to the heads used on a set of 2 valve heads (that have recessed oil feed holes). The end result was oil in the water but no water in the oil.

 

I'm not sure what the exact part number was. I ordered them from MMR. Suppose to be OEM 07 gaskets, they matched up when I put the old and new side by side. I didn't think about getting the part number off them until after they were installed. The only part of the part number I could see after they were installed was 6501 I think, suppose to be OEM .