I was thinking more on the lines of a bigger cam bleeding off enough cyl pressure to live with the slightly higher CR. I don't know what cams you're talking about, but a little overlap can make a big difference in dynamic compression. The intercooler will help too.

 

Good luck with your build. I'm in process of building a 400/ 451 that's going to get squeezed. I'm starting of with a s475. I gotta get the body of the car in order before I spend more $ on the engine

 

I'm still around in here I mainly been reading my Dart has been good to me I did put it on my brothers dyno which is right next door to me it made 7ooHP to the tire I'm happy with that I just drive it and have fun with it. I have wondered what was going on with you and the Dakota I bought a really nice 95 with 32,000 that I'm going 3rd gen hemi turbo.

 

Rtdakota340: Good to see. I am not as active on the boards but plan on keeping this thread up to date at least. If the cash outlay wasn’t so much to convert I would swap to the hemi. Every time I look into it I would be spending a bunch of money on stuff I don’t really need. I have a to do list fairly large as is LOL.

 

Sounds like a cool build. Make sure you get the large exhaust 1.32 with 96 mm turbine. I have the 83 mm turbine and it has very high drive pressure.

 

I agree. I have a 224/230 .57*” hydraulic roller. Thought about getting a new one but not in the cards right now. LOL I love the drive ability of that cam. It is a full weight full street truck I pretty much daily drive. I have thought about putting a larger turbine turbo on to get drive pressures down but I can’t put down the power I have. Lol. I will probably look into improving suspension as well as wheels and tires. I did find a 12” wide wheel with a 7” offset that would bolt to my truck and be able to run some Mickey Thompson 15” wide street tires. I bought a set of 30” tall drag radials but I am down to 2/32 in about 250 miles. Can’t afford tires like that.

 

Thanks for the info. The one i bought is T6 1.32 AR 96MM and 88MM. I bought it off of ebay an thought i was getting a 88mm and not a s475. Anyway i kept it, live and learn i guess

 

Well not much progress. I cleaned the engine bay and got a bunch of small parts detailed but still waiting on everything. I ordered parts a month ago and the heads keep getting pushed back. Far as I can tell no mopar big block heads anywhere. Summit did split the order for me so I can at least fit the new intercooler. Oh well at least it is nearly winter. Here are a couple pics.

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Pics didn’t post.

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Well I got SOME more parts. This is painful LOL. I tore down the front suspension and fought rusty bolts for a good hour or so. Got it all torn down and the rubber inserts removed from the A arm preping for the poly bushings going throughout this thing. Threw the short block in as I won’t have heads till the end of January. That way I will be able to mock up the intercooler and piping. It is coming along slowly.

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I did get my intercooler. As I was looking for ways to plumb it I have been asking myself lately why did I go remote turbo…. At first I was going to have A/C but that has since gone out the window. Lol. And less stuff under the hood. Well when I go to car meets I have to explained to people where the turbo is AKA less wow factor and all this piping is getting out of hand with this added intercooler. So I think I have decided to put it back under the hood.it is a much more simple setup and I eliminate about 10 feet of 3” pipe, return pump, and all the long oil lines. I have room for a 4” down pipe… probably crazy but I like to do fab work anyways. This went from a misfire to pretty much entire rebuild of the truck. Lol keeps me busy. Couple intercooler pics.

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Well I put in a pretty good day in the shop. I got the passenger hot side done, turbo placement mocked up, intercooler placed and most of the cold side piping done. Still a ton to do like the drivers hot side, wastegate and entire exhaust system. As well as all the suspension bushings. I wanted to get the turbo figured out so I could get any extra parts I might need.

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Try to avoid the stop start on your welds, each one of those little craters is a chance for a leak. You have good fitment, try to run as long and smooth of bead as you can. If you have to stitch like that get more overlap and up your gas flow a little, you need each successive stitch to "eat" the crater before it.

Project looks great!

 

Thanks for the tip. I do it just for the look. I run the heat on the high side and leave a small gap for full penetration. I will pressure test a section to see if there are leaks but I have had good luck with it before. If I am just throwing a section of pipe together I just run a bead. The whole underneath will be like that.

 

If you are trying for the "TIG pattern" you could try the "curly q" torch pattern:
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You will need to turn your heat WAY down, since you are essentially tripling your contact time. If you move the torch slow on one side, and fast on the other (side meaning leading or trailing edge rather than what is up or down in this pic) the pattern will change.
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The one in the top left corner of the pic and possibly the two to the right. What's happening is you are pickup up oxides or contaminates, probably from the air around the weld or the backside, it's hard to avoid if your welder doesn't have pre-flow settings. By keeping the bead running you are keeping a gas shield around the weld, and you end up depositing the oxide layer once in the full length of the weld, so less chance for leaks. The other bad thing is each one of those craters is a compromised section of steel, it will be brittle and prone to cracking. Another advantage to running a constant bead is any grease or oil that is left will get burned off before you get to it since you will be keeping the steel hot.

The wide heat affected zone shouldn't exist on a stitch weld, try turning your heat down a little, turning down the heat will also lessen the craters and minimize your chance of cracking. When you put a lot of heat into the metal it expands a lot, so it has to contract a lot as it cools. That will increase deformation and make your exhaust fit funny.

If you try the curly q, try to maintain your torch angle (tough on tube), the more consistent the angle, the more consistent your "stack of dimes".

If you have to stitch, try to start the next stitch in the row just after you see the metal cool from white hot to red hot, that will help the cratering.

18 or so years ago I was training at DADC and running an exhaust shop that was part of a larger tuning and hot rod shop, I got the best advice about welding tube I have ever heard: "mig welds should look like mig welds, tig welds should look like tig welds". I heeded it and started to have way fewer leaks, and issues when I was out of position. Look at a robotically mig welded muffler, that's pretty much the ideal, its smooth, consistent, and leak free, looks nothing like a tig weld.

What size wire are you feeding?

 

I got the hot side all done except the drivers side header I got the pipe all tacked into place. Still need to mount and pipe the wastegate. I mocked up the motor fully to get all I could done with what parts I had. Still need a couple silicone elbows for the intercooler but I have it all pretty much figured I think. Lol

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I got a lot of little things done. Intercooler is fully mounted and all the hot and cold side is fully welded and fitted. Got the oil lines done to and from the turbo. This is the detail stage that is boring but stuff is getting done. Still have the methanol injection, blowoff valve and wastegate to mount. But that should be done this weekend.

I do have some good news on the heads though. Summit had a couple of the Trick flow 240 CNC ported heads in stock so I cancelled my Edelbrocks and ordered the trick flows. They are probably overkill for what I am doing but I would rather have a little to much head flow rather than it be a restriction. I can hopefully put this turbo system on for the last time in a while. Lol.

This brings me to my next issue. I think I am going to upgrade turbos as mine is a big restriction on the turbine side with back pressure ratio of over 3:1. Looking at a VS racing s480 with the large turbine 1.28 housing. Is there another turbo in that price range that is suitable? The S 480 can be had for around $900.

 

Depends on the power goal, s475 may do it for less cash. You should make pretty good na power with those heads, the 96mm turbine ought to be enough. You are pretty close to the price of a genuine borg s480 at $900.

 

Awesome you been busy B.E.N thanks for the advice I'm a rookie too. Cw25 I get my WOW factor when people find out where the turbo is they can not believe it the car should have been named dirty knees from all the people that kneel down to look.

 

rdakota340 I just needed change maybe. Lol. Never happy I guess. I do like how much more simple the system is. 4” down pipe will be interesting though.

Ben. I Should have looked closer it was 900 CND. More like 700 American. I would spend $1000 American if I thought there was a better choice than the S480. Who should I look at for one? If VS racing isn’t the one? I like the S 480 because I stay in the sweet spot even under low boost with it. I hope to make 800 at the crank at 12 ish psi but we will see.