On3. I'm an On3 dealer, so I run a lot of their stuff. I have the complete windsor fox kit with the upgraded turbo and 3.5" downpipe. My engine is a roller block, .040 over, forged 4032 pistons and H beam rods, stock nodular iron crank. TFS heads. etc.

 

Got the car on the ground and moving under its own power. Brakes are working good.
Modified the mounts on the drivers seat so my head doesn't hit the roof any more. (still need to lower the pas. seat) Re curved the distributor timing, and swapped the vac. secondary summit brand carb for a 650 double pumper I had. I also scoped the cylinders to see what they looked like since I did not put this mystery long block together. Looks like stock style cast pistons but in good clean condition with good cross hatch in the bore. Put my old tires and wheels off my Ranchero on it (I think it looks faster already) Took it to work and did a alignment on it. On the way home slammed through some gears and found I have horrible valve float at 5,000-5,100 RPM. When I got home took off a spring to find out whoever put the heads together last did not set up any of the spring heights right and the springs only have 85lbs of seat pressure. (mystery long block) I ordered up a spring kit, will hopefully have it in the car this weekend, and get to make a full pull through the gears. But so far it drives well and pulls hard down low! This project is moving full steam at the moment!

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Great project! IMO, 10's will be fairly easy to achieve with a 351 in that car.

 

And this is for sure a roller block, right? If it is, then yeah, those springs are shot. I use the trick flow retro fit valve apring kit all the time. Very simple install and comes with every part you need. And cheap too.

 

Yes it is a F4TE block. I have that kit here in my hands now.
Hope to have it back up and running by the end of the weekend.
I figured out Lightnings cam with flat tappet cams not roller cams from the factory, which is why the spring rates are so low. It is a roller ready block in the lightnings but they didn't actually come with roller cams at the factory. Thus the light springs in the GT40 heads.

 

Woody at Fordstrokers has been seeing a cracking problem with the F4TE blocks. You have to remove #2 and 4 cam bearings to see the cracks, where hole is for the spider tray. He says 20-30 percent of the blocks he gets are cracked. Just a heads up for anyone that has plans for a money build.

 

Good heads up on this. I currently will be doing a stock budget build on my car. I have 4 of these F4TE blocks currently (I have been collecting them when I see a good deal because in my area they are getting very hard to find) I will be curious if I find one cracked.
With those odds 1 out of my 4 will be cracked! Interesting to see how it turns out for me.

 

Now we know why they are getting so hard to find!

 

There is a sticky with a picture on Corral here is a link.


https://www.corral.net/threads/must-read-psa-for-windsor-roller-block-guys.1352369/

 

I wonder if that crack even really affects anything. So many engines with no known issues before rebuild have it. Then when found during inspection it is then scrutinized. I’m happy to be the ginny pig and if one of mine ends up being cracked I will still give it a try to see what happens.

 

Who knows, it may be fine.

 

I got the new valve spring kit installed. The Trick Flow kit for the GT40 heads is a really good kit, comes with everything you need in one box at a decent price. Good news the engine now revs out to 6,000 RPM with no valve float. I took the car out to a private road and did a few test passes. Although I was struggling to get off the line I was still impressed with how it ran. I was recording data with my DRAGY which I have tested before at the local track and it is normally with in 0.02 sec. of accuracy. Ran between a best of 13.20 @ 110.34 Not Bad for its first full pulls, and that was with a horrible tire spinning 2.28 60 ft.

 

That's some MPH!

 

I was really surprised how hard this combo pulls up top. I did end up running my Victor Jr. intake instead of the Performer RPM which probably contributes to the hard top end pull. And it still has plenty of low end power. After driving with this motor I think I will probably fab and build the turbo on this motor but just keep it low boost, under 7 psi because I do not trust the GT40 iron heads when it comes to blowing out head gaskets. I hope to get it out to the real track with some new tires with in the next month to get a good solid base line with it. Then the next step will be to start upgrading the fuel system to handle the HP goals in the future. One step at a time! I'm just happy to have it running and driving as good as it is so far!

 

I replaced my front tires. I went with a set of Mickey Thompson Sportsman's 26" x 7.5 x 15"
I felt like I had too when I looked at the date code and found out they were from 2005!
Still need to buy new rear tires but I have not made up my mind on what I want yet.
My old M&H tires on the back still have a little life left in them!
Tomorrow as long as the weather stays good I will take it out to the track and see what I can get it to officially run N/A.
My guess is a 12.90 or so with a 1.90 60 ft. We will see what happens.

 

I made it to the track last night!
Car ran well. It is definitely stronger on the first 1/8 mile than the back half.
Ran consistently in the 12.90’s @ close to 109 mph.
Now that I have a good N/A base line I will start saving up for the fuel system for when I add the turbo!

 

It's picking up 23 mph on the back half, so not sure why you say that?

 

I honestly did not really look at that, 23 mph is not bad. It just felt to fall off in the old "seat" dyno.
But the last car I took down the track was my turbo ranchero that at the end was running about a second quicker than this.

 

I actually found a very cool equation on line to tell you if your car is loosing speed on the first half of the track or gaining on the second half of the track.
You take your 1/8 mile speed (in this case 85.99 mph) and multiply it by 1.26 (85.99 x 1.26 = 108.35 ) I had a trap speed of 108.40 mph which means my car is actually very balanced in the front and back half of the track. I used my friends times which he was having some serious traction issues off the start line, it showed in the equation where his actual trap speed was much higher than the equation gave,
(90.00 x 1.26 = 113.40) he actually ran 114.79 mph, meaning his second half (after he gained traction) was his fast half.
I found this very interesting and thought I would share it!

 

That was my point. It's the cold air intake syndrome. And interesting equation, thanks for sharing.