I took the lower control arms off this morning and pushed the ball joints out of them..... The I made a little makeshift alignment jig with some tabs I picked up this week along with some old tubing that was laying around.....

I started with the driver side arm, here you can see the uncut control arm on the jig I made.....




Here it is with the ball joint cup moved and the control arm trimmed to fit around it.....




Here it is after clean up and welded in place.....





Here's the pass side after fitting and welding.....






Here I aligned and stacked the control arms on top of each other, you can see they don't put much effort into fitting the tubing..... Just look at the difference in the angles of the tubes from the inner bushings to the ball joint cup..... It really doesn't effect they way they work but you would think they would make them a little more consistant.....






Tomorrow I will cap the tubing that is cut open at an angle, I think I am also going make a reinforcement just to be safe(probably overkill but better safe then sorry)..... I will also get them painted so they are ready to put back on next week.....

 

Did miss read something,you shorten the control arms cause they were out of alignment,I know some guys change camber for different types of racing just wondering,coming along nicely.

 

The best I could get the camber was -1.5 deg on one side and -2 deg on the other, so I had to do something to get them so they would adjust toatleast 0 deg so I could get proper alignment.....

 

Got the tubes capped and the reinforcement plates made and welded in on the control arms, then I painted them and let them dry for a while..... Next I removed the tie rods ends because the need to be shortened also..... I modified and painted them..... Next I put the control arms back on, the camber was looking much better..... I bolted the tie rods back on and made a rough to adjustment, put the wheels back on - set it on the ground..... Everything looks great now, I have good toe adjustment and the camber can now be adjust from approx negative 3 deg to postiive 1 deg.....

Here's the control arms after capping tubs and welding in a reinforcement plate, then after painting.....







I forgot to take pic's of the progress while modifying the tie rods, but here's one from last week the way they were and then one from this week the way they are.....





Here's a couple of the car on the ground again.....

 

I goucha !

 

Today I masked up the trunk area, put a black base coat in it to evenn it up and then a couple light coats of trunk paint..... Let that dry for about 2 hours and clear coated it..... While letting that dry I got the gas tank out and finished fitting the sump, used a couple different size hole saws to get fuel to the sump area and then welded the sump in place.....

Here's what the trunk looked like after the black base and trunk spatter paint applied.....





Here's the tank with the sump welded in place.....





and here's the trunk after clear and unmasking.....

 

killer build

 

Thanks.....



This morning I bent a tube for the return line in the tank and welded it to the an nut..... Then drilled the tanks, fitted/trimmed the tube for proper fit and welded it in the tank..... I don't like the idea of just putting the vent valve grommet in just the sheet metal of the tank so I will make a 1/8" weld in slug to put the grommet in(I will use the lathe at work to do this)..... After that I decided to put my work stands together I bought a couple months ago in preperation of doing more body work.....

Here's the tube welded to the an nut, then the assembly welded in the tank.....





Here's the work stands assembled.....

 

I made a piece for the vent grommet the it fits better then just drilling the sheet metal top of the tank..... I also put it on a 1" tall piece of tubing to keep the valve out of the fuel as much as possible..... I welded the tube to the top of the tank..... Then I hung the tank and straps, etch primed them, paint with Chassis paint and textured them.....

I also went to the junk yard and got a another filler tube for the tank since mine was a little beat up, I also got a really clean pair of rear marker light retaining brackets that someone else was kind enough to remove them for me..... Then I went to work to lightly bead blast a couple pieces to clean them up.....

Here's the last piece I welded to the top of the tank to hold the vent valve.....




Here are pic's of it etch primmed, painted and textured.....

 

Got the gas tank ready and bolted in the car..... Had to rework the gas inlet tube so the emblem on the gas cap lined up properly. got it adjusted/painted and ready to bolt in..... Also got the inner tail light housings, rear side marker inner brackets and bezels painted and ready to bolt in( I did figure out that the NOS rear side marker bezels I bought turned out to be a right rear and left front instead of both rears, so I need to get a left rear).....

Here's the fuel sender after crimping off the tube and welding it closed.....




Here's the tank with the sender in, then with the vent valve in the top and the last is the tank bolted in the car.....






Here's the position of the gas cap with the stock inlet tube, then one of the position with the 74 inlet tube I picked up yesterday.....





Here's the inlet tube I bought yesterday cut apart to clock it to the correct position, then tacked together for test fit, one of the test fit in the car and then the tube welded together.....








Here's the inlet tube painted and some other stuff I cleaned up and painted(inner tail light housings, rear marker brackets and bezels(atleast a right rear and left front).....

 

This week at work I chased the pins on my 67 Caprice tail light housings to 1/4-20 thread so I would be able to use flanged nuts with sealer to bolt them in place..... I also made some reinforcement plates to put on the inside of the tail light panel..... I strippe all the paint off the outer housings and polished to entire chrome housing.....

Today I assembled the tail lights with new lenses and seal and bolted them in the rear panel..... I also installed the fuel filler neck I got ready last week and put the right side marker light assembly..... I was going to put the push/pull rod for the battery cut off switch in, but upon searching I could not find the switch itself(aparrently I never bought one, so I went and got one this afternoon so I can get that stuff in tomorrow).....

Here's the filler neck bolted in with button head stainless hardware.....




Here's the rear panel with the tail lights, filler neck and gas cap installed.....




Here's the inside of the rear panel(shows the reinforcement backing plates I made for the tail lights in black).....





Here's the side marker light assembly inside and out.....

 

Today I got the cut off switch with push/pull rod modified and installed..... I also install the battery box assembly and got the trunk seal glued in place..... After that I went back out to the jusk yard and got a left rear marker light that's in pretty damn good shape, I also got front side marker light retaining brackets that were just a little dirty(no rust like the other 2 sets I have).....

Here's the push/pull rod cut to length and champfered, then with the threaded and one with the handle screwed on..... The last is what it looks liks installed.....







Here's a couple in the trunk showing the cutoff switch assembly and battery bos installed.....





and here's a couple with the trunk seal glued on and the spare tire sitting in place.....

 

Today I got more little stuff installed..... I assembled the left rear marker light and installed it..... Installed the boomerangs in rear quater window openings..... Bolted in the trans cooler..... Got the fuel, heater and oil press bulkhead fitting in the firewall and right shock tower..... I dirlled out the boost reference hose barb in my Mallory fuel pressure regulator, then tapped it 1/16 NPT for an NPT to -4 fitting then installed the regulator on the car..... I also notched out the old package tray panel to fit around the roll bar where it goes through the rear deck(this will be used on the replacement panel for a pattern).....

Most of this small stuff I have been installing is primarily to get as much loose stuff that is laying around actually attached to the car and off the shelf..... The last thing I did today was to get some stuff out for the next step( I got the quater panel end caps, small filler pieces under the end caps, bumper brackets, trunk latch, trunk lock and necessary small parts that are used for attaching these parts)..... Tomorrow I will get the car outside so I can clean the shop and get down a few more parts so I can get back to some body work.....

Here's the left marker assy installed.....





Here's the boomerangs installed(they look better in the pic's then in person, some small inperfections in the chrome but not bad).....





Here's the trans cooler.....




Here's the fittings and regulator in the right tower, also 1 where heater/oil press fittings come through the inside of the firewall.....





and here's where I trimmed the package tray panel to fit around the roll bar to be used as a pattern on the new one.....

 

Moved the car out this morning and got the shop cleaned(took a couple pic's of the car while it was out in the open)..... Then I got down the trunk lid, spoiler and rear valence panel..... Then I stripped the paint off all of it..... The center section of the rear spoiler has alot of small fractures in it and it has been repaired in the right rear, then sure enough when moving it aroud it broke..... Won't be hard to fix, just another pita.....

Here's a couple of the car outside.....






Here's some while stripping stuff down.....







and here's one of the break in the spoiler.....

 

Car is looking great man

 

I've been following this thread (and others of yours) for years and I have to say sweet jesus

 

Thanks.....

and thank you.....

 

More progress was made today..... Since I have to fix the spoiler anyways I went ahead and cut the lump of hairy glass out that was sticking through the inside from a previous repair, then I started making repairs..... I sanded the trunk on both sides, I doug out all the seam sealer around the outer edge of the underside then wire wheeled the rust that was under it..... After that I prepped it and applied some POR15 to the pitted area..... I sanded and primed the rear valence panel..... I also sanded, primed and filled the inperfections in the rear quater extensions.....

Here's the lump I cut out of the inside of the spoiler, the first part of the repairs where it was broke and a small area that needed material added where it had been snaded away in the past.....






Here's the under side of the trunk lid where I treated it with POR15.....




Here is the rear valence sanded and primed.....





and here are the quater extensions snaded, primed and filled where necessary.....

 

Dude you do some good work. I have been watching this thread and man I love it. You could paint my Mustang any day of the week!

 

Sunday I worked on the spoiler a little, cleaned up the repair I made on it Sat then reinforced the inner rear area..... I got the rear valence and quater end caps all painted, only porblem is I have a blemish in the left end cap and after the last coat of clear a giant bug belly flopped in the pass side end cap(I picked the bug out and touched it up, I think the pass side sill be ok but we will just have to see)..... Some of the joys of painting without a booth.....

Here's Saturdays repairs on the spoiler cleaned up a little, then the test fit to make sure it still lines up properly alohg the top of the trunk an the last is where I made the inner repairs on the back edge.....







Here's the valence and end caps with sealer, base coat and finally cleared.....