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Mercury Comet that I wasn't looking for

Discussion in 'The Turbo "Builds" Board' started by 62CometTurbo, Feb 8, 2021.

  1. 62CometTurbo

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2021
    Anyone have experience with the aftermarket sealed bearings with the oring on the outside of the bearing? Are they reliable to use without the inner axle seal?
     
  2. Briansshop

    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2006
    I've used those with no issues.
     
    62CometTurbo likes this.
  3. 62CometTurbo

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2021
    I've read mixed reviews but seems most people say they're OK without the inner seal. I am planning on ordering axles from strange and they offer them. Sounds like there are a handful of 9" housings offered that do not use the inner seal. Worst case I can use one of the seals that go inside the center section I guess.

    You have a wealth of knowledge!
     
  4. silver82GT

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2005
    My Moser 9" housing has bearings like that. I put it in the car in the mid 90s and have never had a leak. I have changed axle bearings once when I upgraded the axles.
     
    Briansshop and 62CometTurbo like this.
  5. mld54

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2004
    I've had really bad luck with the sealed ball bearings. Bad enough that I was replacing them every year or two. Everything from seeping gear lube through them to then shattering the outer race. I finally changed to the heavy duty big Ford tapered bearings, problem solved. I drive my car a lot, it's common to go on 100 plus mile trips, my longest was 2000 miles on Power Tour. I feel like the sealed ball bearings don't handle the heat from longer distance drives. The tapered bearings are lubricated and cooled by the gear lube, the sealed bearings are not. This was a Moser built 9 inch.
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2024
  6. tbird

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2004
    For street cars and drag and drive i would not use ball bearing. They reduce resistance but the longevity and strength of a taper bearing is far superior.
     
    62CometTurbo likes this.
  7. 62CometTurbo

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2021
    So since you switched, how do you set preload on the tapered? That's my main concern trying to use the explorer brake setup. The bracket will be between the flange and retainer, so I was concerned about setting preload and or finding the right amount that makes sure the brakes are tight.
     
  8. 62CometTurbo

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2021
    Just got confirmation from Currie the explorer brake retainers are designed with the SET20 bearings in mind. I'll order them and go from there.
     
    B E N likes this.
  9. 62CometTurbo

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2021
    Ordered strange axles, hopefully they'll be here next week. Also ordered a bearing kit for the carrier and pinion, comes with a new seal, nut, and adjustment shims to set it up. Hopefully I don't have to press the new bearing off the pinion too many times.
     
    74chlngrTT5.9 likes this.
  10. 62CometTurbo

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2021
    Axles came in. Strange seems to take a bit more pride in the overall product compared to the Mosers I had in there. I didn't think about the t bolts for the retaining plates until now, so I have to wait for those to really get everything together for a test fit. The axles DO fit the housing, the only thing I have questions about is the explorer brake carrier and the retainer clearance to the seal face. I'll get a couple pictures, maybe it's normal. The extended retainer looks like it's going to have about 3/16-1/4" of "smush" on the seal face. This is with the set20 tapered bearings btw. I decided to go that route since its 99% street car. 20240203_112424.jpg #ad
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2024
  11. 62CometTurbo

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2021
    Nothing is tight in these pictures, just bolts slid in to hold it there. 20240203_212504.jpg #ad
    20240203_212448.jpg #ad
    20240203_212619.jpg #ad
     
  12. 62CometTurbo

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2021
    Doing some measurements and quick math, I've got roughly a .058-.060 gap between a flat retainer and the seal face using the explorer backing plates. I pulled an axle and it does appear the bearing seated all the way into the bore. Grease marks against the stop. Measuring the bearing bore depth on the housing end it is the same .69-.70" depth that I'm seeing online. I saw where a couple guys used piston rings as a spacer, I might try that if I have a couple around that would fit.
     
  13. CW25

    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2003
    Maybe a large snap ring? I have the opposite issue as I have no brake calliper bracket or backing plate bolted in there so I have to make a spacer. Lol
     
    62CometTurbo likes this.
  14. 62CometTurbo

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2021
    I am going to stop on my way home and see, I know it doesn't need to be super precision. One of my buddies builds engines so I asked him about a couple used piston rings, but I'm going to look at snap rings too. I didn't have anything big enough at home.
     
  15. 62CometTurbo

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2021
    Found some 80x2.5mm internal c clips on grainger I might try. 15 bucks with shipping. 2.5mm=.098", with my .060" gap that gives me .048" preload. Might be a little much but better than the .17" the retainers would give me.

    Currie told me after asking several times that their ends are only intended to be used with "their 9 inch axles, housings, and brake kits. Not OEM Explorer brakes".
     
  16. KEVINS

    Joined:
    May 25, 2004
    If you haven't looked you may try McMaster.com

    ks
     
    62CometTurbo likes this.
  17. 62CometTurbo

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2021
    Ordered some 78x2.5mm circlips. Did my math wrong in the last post, the 2.5mm will give me .038-.040, I was .010 off. That "should" be about perfect from what I'm reading, but we will see.
     
  18. mld54

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2004
    I run a Quick Performance 9 inch with the big Ford tapered bearings. I used Strange machined aluminum brackets for the brakes. When I assembled it there was space between the bracket and the housing end. I can't remember the exact measurement, I'm guessing .125 max but probably more like .075. The inside and end of the seals were rubber and compressible. I just hand tightened it being careful to feel how it tightened down. It bottomed on the housing before the seal. Almost like they are designed to have some squeeze or crush. I only have 2-300 miles on it but no problem yet.

    Have you tried snugging them down to see whether it bottoms on the seal or housing first ?
     
    62CometTurbo likes this.
  19. 62CometTurbo

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2021
    I have not. T bolts should be here Thursday then I can give it a shot. Thought about grabbing some 3/8 bolts instead but I'd rather use them (theyre cheaper anyway). If my math adds up, I'll have .17" of crush if I use the flange side of the retainers, which is too much in my mind. Just mad I spent the extra money on the Explorer retainers to have to go through this anyway.
     
  20. mld54

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2004
    .170 does sound like a lot, definitely more than I had
     
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