I would like to know what others think? I assume wheel hop can be just as damaging as a good launch.

 

I don't know about rear ends, but I know with the Mopars I build wheel hop is the #1 way you blow up a transmission. So I'd bet it'd be hard on rear ends as well.

 

Cleaned the tube up and threw a handful of hot beads on it. I've got it about halfway to where it needs to be. Pretty wild! I'll have to knock the welds down for it to be pretty but it is in fact moving. I'm not going for perfect, but closer than whatever came out of the factory I'm sure. I could have waited and borrowed oxygen acetylene from my father in law but I'm impatient. I may look at some bracing while I'm doing all this, but the leaf springs may be in the way for some of the common bottom braces.

 

Got some clean up to do, but this is where I'm stopping tonight. #ad

 

Found out the pinion centerline is off to one side 3/8". Driver side is 24 5/8" and pass is 24 1/4" using a centerline plate. Not sure if that's enough to contribute to my vibration I was getting but I'm going to aim for getting the driver side to match the pass unless there's a reason not to.

 

Anyone with experience with 9" ends know if I can trim down the smallest diameter bit of these ends? The axle tubes neck down, and I'm afraid these will not slide into the tube where I need to cut to keep my length where I need it. Other option is send these back and by a set that does not have the "slip in" alignment bit past the weld bevel. To me it doesn't seem critical as the only bit in there should be the wedding ring behind the bearing and it shouldn't touch inside the end. #ad
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I'd machine it to fit the way you want it too.

ks

 

Will do! Wasn't sure of any of the inner machining was critical other than the 3.15 opening where the bearing will seat. I'm not totally sure how the tapered bearings would fit in such a narrow seat but I would rather run those.

 

JUST fit inside the tube where I needed it. Does help keep it in place while you're getting everything lined up but does limit your minor adjustments to square it all up. All in all it will be better off than before. #ad

 

You can cut that off. Most ends dont come with the portion to fit in the tube. They just have a heavy chamfer for weld.

 

Fitting inside will limit the adj window too much,I'd think. Unless the tubes are very close to straight.

 

This is what I'm thinking. The tubes are damn close at this point but not perfect.

 

Wow on all accounts...
You will know it is correct when you finish it...

 

Got the ends tacked on, got pulled away for some baby duty and errands. I'll get it welded in the AM hopefully. The big thing is I can still spin the bar with the ends tacked and all the bushings in place. I couldn't even get the bar in with more than one inner bushing installed before.

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/zdLaw98WYb0?si=khrPGaP3PH6JKjH1

Just had this sent to me. A guy did a walk around that's been filming all the local cruise ins and shows, thought it was kinda neat.

 

Looks good! The fucking music was terrible.

 

My junk is close to fire up. Have meet up down that way some time.

 

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The world's ugliest 8.8 has new ends and is still fairly straight. I'm almost confident enough to do this for other people. Surprisingly simple as nerve wracking as it was to thunk about. Now I just need my mono leaves from Calvert and I'll get it in the check the pinion angle and cut off the old perches and weld new on.

 

Nice job. Welding ends on a rear diff isn’t very difficult. I didn’t have a alignment bar so I used a axle with the bearing on it and installed the carrier to hold the other end. Tacked it in several spots checking it on the first couple tacks. Then welded it in. The axles slide in like stock. Now I just need the axle cut guide and I will have a assembled axle. Make sure to box the perches as well when you weld them on.

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Threw the new pinion in and slid the rear in to check pinion angle. I'm sure some of you remember my debacle about that. I've got new perches I'm going to weld on for 2 reasons. Since making both sides the same length now, one side sticks out farther. Reason 2 is pinion angle, needs to come up about 5 degrees. I did modify my rear shackles to better fit the caltrac mono leafs. Had to order some new u bolts because the threads on a couple are getting chewed up.

Bad news about cutting off the locating stub on the new axle ends, that's where the inner axle seal would sit if I wanted to use ball bearings. Didn't even dawn on me. Good news is I can still use the tapered which I was leaning toward anyway, I guess I'll see what luck I have getting those to seal up. #ad