So, are the board mods needed if your running MS & the stock EEC together? I thought as long as you select "invert ignition output" in the spark settings you wouldn't have to mess with the board.

So let me get the straight...
1) I need to do the board mod (input only),
2) Wire pin 56 from the EEC (PIP) to pin 24 on MS, and
3) Wire white wire from MSD to pin 30 on MS.

I'm going to be running MS with the stock EEC, but MS will handle fuel & spark...I don't want to remove the EEC competely because I'm running an AODE transmission.

 

Not that locked out timing is a bad thing though, you can lock it out at say 20* and get pretty good performance out of it, but it will be better with the Spark adder working.

 

Yes, plus the necessary software changes.

Good luck on that one and let us know how it goes.

 

What WB02 are you MS users using? DIY? or some other aftermarket one?

 

Innovate LM1. Works like a dream.

 

I just bought the LC-1 with the gauge, hopefully this willwork good.

 

It will work great. I use the LM-1 also. I like it a lot.

 

Here's an update:

I flashed the processor to 024s9.
Setup megatune 2.25 for msns-e.
Loaded my VE table and adjusted everything.
Generated a spark table.
Tested with the stim.
Worked on my adapter so MS Fidle (or pin 30) goes to SPOUT (or pin 36) on the EEC harness.
Connected MS pin 24 to EEC pin 56 (PIP).
Fired the car up and made a few more changes.

It is working great. Now I'm curious if it's really doing the spark control or not. We did very little testing with it under load. It seems to run well. If only I had remembered to bring my timing light. Will I have problems connecting to the SPOUT on the EEC harness in the same way the EEC-IV ECU had?

Really, what I'm having a hard time with, is the damn scraping sound the car makes when we drive it around the neighborhood at slow speeds. That's more difficult to fix than getting the MS to work.

 

I should make a trip to save you two clowns your sanity.

 

Please do. We need fresh, new ideas!

 

Ugh. Read this thread again. FIDLE goes to the white MSD wire. Your still just running off of the TFI module.

.... And on that same note. The only thing that should be hooked up to the coil is the MSD's black and orange. It sounds like you still have the green wire from the TFI going to the coil. You shouldn't.

 

This might be why it didn't work when I connected Fidle to the white wire on the MSD.

 

Probably the case

 

oh yea almost forgot to use the ford sensors...

do you take a 22k and a 4.7k and put htem together and then put it on the board?

 

For R4 and R7 I used a total of 4 resistors. Each has a 22k and a 4.7k which are run in a series so they're end to end. If the radio shack I went to had 27k resistors I would have just bought those instead.

 

Have you asked this question on the msefi site?

 

nah i was confused on how he said he use 2 resistors, didn't know you could put them together and it will still work as there are adding to each other. I have been searching over there for a lil while and grabbing a headache as this is the last thing to do before i turn it over. I still have to use easy therm dont i?

 

You don't need to mess with easytherm if you use the resistors. Definitely go the resistor route. They just have to be hooked up so one resistor, lets say the 4.7k, starts in one of the solder points and then connects to the 22k which completes the circuit by going to the other solder point. They'll be single file or end to end. If they're both starting and ending in the same points it's parallel and not correct.

If I could I'd get some pics of it, but I can't tonight.

 

cool thanks i was hoping for that answer. Dont worry bout the pics i know what your talking about now. thanks

 

I have never used easytherm, so not sure how that works out. If it were me I would just splice in some GM pigtails, which are cheap at autozone and some GM sensors right to your EEC harness and call it a day....but that's just me.