Here ya go. I found it on their website.

http://www.aerospacecomponents.com/images/instructions/dualpl.pdf

 

Roy:
What I did was:
1-I went from the Aerospace master cyl to the Jegs propotion valve.<the valve have 3 ports for the front,1 in 2 out.>
2-From the Jegs proportion valve ,I run one line to the OEM brake line that runs to the rear of the car.The same OEM line T on the rear end for each side.

So,it is like the diagram but with out the residual valve.
The car been on the 5 sec. zone on the 1/8 mile with this setup with out any issues...

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/63027/10002/-1?CT=999

#ad

 

I also try today a set of 15X10's Bogart wheels & they clear the dual brake setup just fine...
decisions, decisions, decisions..............

 

Test fit some Champion Wheels 15x10's & they will not clear the brake pads.

 

I also try some 15x10's Monacooe wheels & they did not fit either..........

 

I know I'm jumping in very late on this. But I already have pretty much the same setup you mentioned in your original post Randy. it took me quite a bit to get the brakes to work the way I wanted. I run the Aerospace front kits with spindles, rotors, calipers and all. 3/16 lines and same master cylinder. I do have the stock rear brakes.

It took a couple conversations with Scott at Aerospace to get these work the way I wanted. Nothing I did would bleed the system enough to build enough pressure at all points to get the car to stop properly.

First things to note. Aerospace claimed that their master cylinder looks like other less expensive. But they claim that it's proportioned differently and that proportioning valves are not normally required. I had one originally installed in the rear lines because I was told to by others originally. I hadn't thought much about it back then. Turns out that in a drag race car you don't really want to lower line pressure to the rear, which is what valves do. The reason is that the tires and suspension on most single digit drag race cars are simply not setup correctly for a heavy front bias. Yeah, you want enough to transfer weight and stop the car but, too much, too quickly can over load then unload a fairly soft front suspension and skinny, smaller diameter tires . If left to right weight and ride height of the car isn't very close the car can shoot in directions under braking. These problems and excessive pedal pressure required make the car almost dangerous to drive. In a drag car it maybe better to make sure the bias is not too far forward and allow the tires that are built for traction to actually help more with braking. Like anything else, it's balance. As it turns out for my car as least Aerospace was right. No proportioning required. Now if you have a really badass set of rear brakes you may need a single valve to the rear.

The things I mention above were all problems I was having. I have pressure gauges and nothing I tried bleeding the system would get me the pedal pressure, travel and feel that I wanted. I removed all proportioning valves and ran an isolated system direct to the master cylinder.

According to Aerospace I needed at least 1100 psi on the front and 900 psi at the rear to get proper braking. I wasn't getting anywhere near that. Maybe 800 front, 500 rear. I tried all methods of bleeding. Nothing worked. I did the pedal ratio math and came up with a pedal ratio that did not match the instructions for the pressure I wanted. I can't remember exactly what it was. I can remeasure it if need be. But it was quite a bit less than 2 inches. closer to 1.5 if I remember right. Problem was that once I got the ratio where I should have gotten the 1150 psi I was shooting for, the master cylinder actuator rod was binding at the pivot ball in the master cylinder. Another call to Aerospace. They verified that this could happen and suggested I use a ginder to taper off that area in the actuator rod. I did that. That fixed that problem. Bottom line on this. Using the stock pedal box, the Aerospace instructions, and their master cylinder I would not/could not get the proper pressure at the caliper to make the brakes function properly.

Then on to bleeding. I simply bought a set of speed bleeders. The speed bleeder combined with the proper pedal ratio and BINGO! I've got proper brakes! And it was down right easy. With what I consider moderate pedal pressure I get 1250 front and 1100 psi rear. Car stops just fine and has no issues with breaking balance at all. I did add a spring to the pedal to the dash to get the pedal feel I was after. The brakes pretty much feel like stock brakes that you have to push a bit harder on.

Anyway, even if your past all of this maybe others might find it helpful.

Thanks,

Ed

 

update
added a 2lb residual pressure valve to the rear brakes line & fixed the spongy pedal issue.
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/631030/10002/-1

Now the pedal feel like a stock one , no more pumping the pedal to get pressure in the line......

#ad

 

I may have to try that, I have had a time getting mine to be where I want them. My car doesn't stop that well either

 

Bringing it back from the dead. But any chance there a pic of the steering shaft setup with using the flaming river rack

 

https://www.theturboforums.com/threads/361694-SN95-99-04-full-cage-panels-fabrication/page4