Really, how much did they quote you for that. that sounds more expensive then i would think it would cost for a new crank. were the thrust bearings installed correctly? also Are you running an automatic? another shop across the street put 3 engines in a truck(non-performance) in 3 months all of them tore up the thrust of the crank, finally found the radiator trans cooler was plugged causing the torque converter to push on engine taking out thrust. just a thought.

 

romeo iron block, my machinist won't reuse the crank if it is questionable at all

 

Only wanted 150.00 to do the crank , the thrust surface is very small all you do is take a tig and build it up and then turn it down. I was running a T56 not an auto and to tell the truth i don't think the thrust bearing was installed right or the main cap was left loose but how do you prove it. I made the guy that built the short block redo it and it turned in to a clusterfuck took 6 months to get it done and almost had to file a suit on his ass to get it done.

 

Not a problem I have had with Bubba Jones, worst I have ever had to do was buy bearings over him do all the labor free

 

alright thrust measures at .031 ( so I guess just being able to move my crank by hand made it look like much more), when it was installed it was at .006, no signs of wear on any bearings

Only update I have so far

 

Any updates on the motor yet ?

 

machine shop has it now, the thrust bearing looks like new, all rod and mains look perfect as well. If the crank was riding on the thrust bearing we would expect it to be burnt up or there to be some signs on the crank but none are there. Since we can't find a for sure assembly error or abuse by me me and the shop are gonna split the cost of the bearings and any labor is free. I am going to go ahead and swap the pump and will try to have it back together next weekend ( this weekend going to look at a fox roller)

 

If the thrust went from .006 to .933 something is wrong somewhere. The crank runout to the rear face of block is only .005 max

 

Still no word on the motor.?

 

work has been too hectic for me to run by the machine shop, and it was .006 to .031,

 

Any info yet on what hapened, seeing how i had close to the same problem im interested in the outcome.

 

Been a while since I had time to work but here is wher eit stands now. Picked the engine up from the shop a few weeks back with a $45 bill ( replaced all the main bearings) go tit home and back together. I had a shop look at the meiling pump and they couldn't find anything wrong with it so I packed it full of grease and bolted it back up. Finally got around to getting it all back in the car last night, removed the oil filter relocation kit, filled the pan with VR1 20w50 and the filter with some 0w20 amsoil I had on the shelf and as soon as the engine fired I had oil pressure. Today I will put everything right and not just for good enough to start.

since it always took a second to get oil pressure with the relocation I will just suck up the pain in the ass it is to take off one of the hot pipes and run stock filters. long as work stays settled a little I should have it back to drive able by next weekend

 

Got to ask why would you pack the oil pump full of grease. ?

 

causes the pump to have suction faster, people have used vaseline , white litium grease etc in the past as well. I get pressure faster packing the pump verses not

 

I always just prime the whole motor before i fire it up to make sure i have oil in the top end cams and pump.

 

I haven't built/bought anything to do it with the mod motor yet, I considered just using a garden sprayer through the port under the oil pressure sending unit. Mike at Unique took an old bucket type sand blasting set up and uses it to pre-oil the mod motors

 

where did your thrust clearance end up with the new bearings? I believe anything over .009-.010" is excessive for up to a 3" journal.
we used to pack the oil pumps..... but dont see it much anymore.

 

thrust is .007 now

 

I have about $50.00 in my engine primer , just bought a good bug sprayer from home depot and put fittings on the hose that screw in were the oil sending unit goes fill it half full of oil and pump. You can take the oil fill cap out of the valve cover and look in the hole with a flashlight and see the oil coming out the top end works as good as the $250.00 one Ford sells.