Are you guys happy with the overall functions of the box? I have the 7531 budgeted into my build. I am always up for saving some $$$$. I am sure that the built in 2 BAR MAP in the 6530 will be the biggest down fall for me as I plan to push my engine to well over 20lbs.

 

I'm pretty sure you can use a 3BAR with this box .


If you already budgeted for the 7531 , I would use it .

 

still happy with this box and yes you can use 3 bar maps.
there is no built in map sensor it has a pig tail to plug map
sensors in. if you buy a sensor for a factory gm vehicle you will
have to cut off the alignment tabs that the are inside the
connector with an exacto or similar kife , no biggee

 

I just purchased this same box for the 'stang and was concerned about this. I just want to go with a GM 2 or 3 bar map sensor as they are more affordable than the MSD unit. Did you need to swap any of the wires around in the connector or is it a straight plug in after you shave off the alignment pins? I had to swap wires around on my GLHS to get the GM 3 bar map to work, just want to know if I have to do it for this too.

 

No wiring change needed. Just be easy on the pins in the sensor when timming the tabs. I broke a pin off my first sensor.

 

Sweet! Thanks for the info!

 

I'm headed to summit tomorrow to get one of these boxes and all my other wiring. Who wants to come hook it all up for me

 

Do you run with the spout in when using this box? Initial timing set at?

 

I think most of the guys in here are using this on a carbed application so there is no spout..... However if you want to use it with the Ford efi you would leave the spout out so the dist timing is locked, the MSD would control your timing from now on.....

You set your dist for the total timing you want and then program the MSD to pull timing at idle to create our timing curve..... Then program your boost curve to pull timing when making boost, how much depends on your set up and wha you feel comfortable with.....

 

I have one of these boxes as well. My car initially had nitrous on it when I got it, and had never been used. The guy had put the non-programmable box on it. I took it off, sold it, and replaced it with the programmable box - 'cause I knew it would be getting a turbo. I jsut got the car running with the MPT70, so it will be dyno time in the next week or so.

I dowloaded the 3.19 software and messed with it some - it's as easy as you can get. It's just like the Digi7 boxes.

 

This is the box I am looking at. One question I have is if there is anyway to input the AEM wideband I am looking at into this box. it is the 0-5v output.

I would like to be able to log, timing, boost pressure, and a wideband reading together.

Any ideas?

 

Nope .

The 6530 doesnt log anything . And even if you go with a Digi 7 , it has no way to log AFRs .

 

The 6530 can not datalog or send timing info to a datalogger. If you have boost and rpm data logged you can compare it to your timing charts and get the timing at any point.

 

OK, so if I get this box, what should I use to datalog RPM, boost, afr, etc. Or should I get another box if I want to do that?

 

what coil do you guys prefer with this box?

 

I datalog with my WBO2. I am using a 20 year old Mallory 29440 coil. I think that MSD has reccommended coils on their web site or maybe in the instructions, also on the web.

 

I can't believe I skipped over this thread before. It been some great info for me as I will be purchasing the 6530- most likely later than sooner but oh well. Thanks to everyone who chimed in on this thread.

 

I'm using the HVC II (8253). Had the Blaster when I used my 6AL but the new coil combined with the 6530 seemed to clean things up. I noticed a brighter spark under my phasing cap after the switch to the 6530/HVC combo.

The only issue I have is a on startup. I run 40* total timing as well and pull out 24* from 0 to 600 rpm. My box seems to have trouble for a split second pulling all the timing out when I hit the key. Nothing major though!

 

Just bought one.

Excited.


No more digital 6 box with window switching activating one-step retard.
Far from optimal...with a locked out distributor sitting at 33 degrees, pulling out 10

 

let us know how it works for you