Looks like you are on a roll! Just a quick question, why did you angle the front so high? Looks like that might be real close to the fiberglass hood. No nit pickin'---just askin'! Rollbar clearance maybe?

 

Thats because I am doing a driverside turbo mount and sothe turbine inlet is on top. The log portion is a little long on that one too. It should have about 4" clearance to hood. It will be wrapped as well.

 

Ahh, Ok I see where you are going. Keep the pics rollin"!!

 

Lookin good.

 

A little more progress. Things are going slow.. I blew a head gasket on my dodge diesel. A little to much boost with no studs.. lol it was only 55 pounds. But heres the progress..

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What are you doing with your front suspension?

 

What do ya mean? The shock towers? I have 1" tubing that ties the tower to the roll cage. I had to take out the drivers side for the turbo. But it will fit back in after some rebending of the cage .

 

You can kinda see it on the passenger side.

 

Well i was cruising right along. I have all the hotside fab work done. So I pulled the old motor to get the needed parts for the new motor. Got the short block all together with the girdle and windage tray and pan all the stuff. Then as I was just putting the crank dampener on I spung the motor over and CLUNK WTF! so I pulled the pan and The dang massive aluminum rods are hitting the 1/2" pickup.. OOOP S&#T Fv[K DAMN!! Oh well guess it gets external oiling now! That should set me back some time and cash!

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Also for you anti aluminum street rod. I got this off the BME web site..

The Only Streetable Aluminum Rod

Urban legends abound in the gearhead community. One is: aluminum connecting rods don't work in street engines. Prior to the mid-'70s, that might have been true, however, introduction of the Bill Miller Engineering Forged Aluminum Connecting Rod in 1975 provided an exception to that myth.

The BME Rod has great durability in high-end, high-power, street/strip or hot street engines because it is die-forged, rather than cut out of a plate. Bill Miller Engineering's unique, aluminum alloy further enhances fatigue strength such that the durability of BME Rod rivals that of many forged steel rods and exceeds that of a few.

About 20 years ago, a few resourceful engine builders, led by H-O Racing's, Ken Crocie, began using BME Rods in very-high-performance street engines. Crocie, a racing and street/strip Pontiac V8 specialist, faced with a shortage of acceptable steel rods for Pontiacs, began to use BME Aluminum Rods. While a few other engine builders followed Crocie's lead, admittedly, use of the Bill MIller Engineering Rod in street engines has not been widespread, but that's only because of its higher cost and the stubborn belief that any aluminum rod is unsuitable for street use.




"In a street application, using the aluminum rod is a no brainer," BME President, Bill Miller, recently said in an interview with an automotive magazine. "I don't know how the myth that aluminum rods can't be used on the street got started, but I'll guess that, back in the 60s and early-70s, they weren't making them using the process we're using, today. With the material we've got and they way we manufacture the connecting rods, they'll live a couple hundred thousand miles on the street because a street application is, for the most part, low load. Our basic Aluminum Rod is made for 10,000 rpm and 800-hp. The design criteria for the connecting rod is way overkill for what it's going see on the street. We been running aluminum rods on the street for 20 years."

Why build a street engine with BME Rods? One reason is the "cool factor." Bill Miller Engineering Rods are unique, high-end racing parts and there always will be people who spend extra money to have the same rods in their engines as Tony Schumacher or John Force puts in theirs. More importantly, there are practical reasons for using BME Rods'”the same reasons racers use them: less reciprocating and rotating mass due to their comparative lightness. That allows the engine to accelerate quicker and make more power as it does so. Lighter rods also improve throttle response and allow the engine to run reliably at a higher rpm than it could with steel rods.

 

Who did the heads?

 

I did all the port work. Had a shop do a 5 angle valve job. This aint my first set of heads by any means.. Although these stage 6 heads needed more work than any other head I have done. About 40 hrs per head.. They seem to work well though picked up .50 over my 906 s that I ran before without any other mods.

 

The only reason not to run aluminum rods is cost.

 

I guess you must run in a different tax bracket than most.. 1300 bucks aint cheap in my book.

 

Yeah,
The Oliver Billet steel ones in my Falcon were $1400

 

You got it wrong... I run eagles. I would run aluminum if I could afford it. The only reason NOT to run aluminum rods is the price. Every other reson is good except the high price.

 

Ya I totally misread that. Gotta love them cocktails! Lol

 

Yay, Oiling system is supposed to be here today!! Probably get the motor in by the weekend. Then Lots more work to do!!

 

Its in!! I still need get the kit to wrap the headers and all that stuff. Probably gonna do the breakin with my known working set up before I tear the carb and fuel system apart. Atleast I wont feel bad about the motor sittin for a month or two. I hate having new motors sit after assembly. Like to get them fired quickly..

 

I would fire it on the carb and break in the cam. It would make me feel better if it were mine. Although I built a port EFI system and motor at the same time. LOL didn't let the EFI have ignition control right away as that would have been way to much.

 

Well Its getting closer. I have the engine in and ready. Was hoping to break it in this weekend. Turn out that with this type of oil pump system I need a longer drive. They didnt list it and it finally took a call to Milodon to get the answer. So Of course its on back order.. So I will keep fabbing and getting everything ready for the turbo to go on after break in..

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Gonna have this cold pipe welded up and have the bov welded in right in front of the carb.

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