What K member and A arms are you running for those fronts to fit so nice. I got the same wheels. I have a QA1 k member and A arms and they stick out 3/4".

 

Re: Hydroboost / SN95 Brake swap / 17x10.5 FR500 rim install

other than welding the new brake pedal eyelet on and some hoses was it really all that bad? I ask because it looks great and i need to upgrade my MC and booster since putting a disk rear in my car.

 

Great build. Now, put it back on the jackstands and swap your rear calipers from one side to the other. Bleeder screw looks should be pointing up, not down. Youll never get the air out.

 

Paul project looks great,
sorry I havent gotten any pics of the steering rack for you
I actually ended up selling the car so I couldnt get any pics for you
I see you got the motor to fit in the chassis though
looks great keep the pics coming

 

looks good. i just picked up a hydroboost myself. i noticed you (ackbar00) kept the stock fox prop valve. any reason you didn't use the 2000 valve. the hydro i bought has all that attached so i figured i would use it. besides now i can remove the adjustable proportioning valve over on the pass side of the firewall.

 

I have always liked the 10.5's in the rear. When I did mine I only had the 17x9s and the widest tire I could fit was a 295. Looks like you and I had the same 1/4 in the front but I had a 245 up front and ended up using a 1/4 inch spacer. I am hopping the new car with MM coilovers will fit better since the spring is smaller.

Great looking build cant wait to see some videos.

 

Gesh, been awhile since an update, so here we go:

linkmustang - Stock 94 rear calipers. Stock fox length Moser 31 spline axles and 94 front spindles

92GreenGT - It is a -8 45* fitting. I think a 3/8's on the tap side. I just drilled and tapped the valve cover and used some washers so the fitting would not bottom out and hit the rocker arm. To date, my PCV system is kick ass and I do not have any oil ever come out of the Jaz breather tank. To see more pics of this setup, look here:
http://usera.imagecave.com/ackbar00/PCV/

stpet291 - it is the stock K-Member and Arms with UPR coilovers.

dman - It has just taken a lot longer then I thought it would, but then again, I am anal about how it works. I used the fox prop valve as that was what I was reading about on Modularfox.com and what they used. Plus, the 2000's Prop valve is turned sideways in relation the fox deal and would have required more brake lines to be bent, moved or replaced. Was just easier to use the fox one.

ralphiejantz - is cool chief. Was able to get it figured out so we are good to go now.

So, the motor is in, I have mostly everything hooked up now. I am actually still messing around with the emergency brake cables. I had read on someone else's build that you did not have to do the handle modification. They had a 93 like me so I figured what the hell, ill give it a try. Well, sorry to report, that does not work!!! It WILL engage the emergency brake, but it will not release it fully. So, I pulled the counsel apart pulled the brake and modified it like the FRS instructions said. Problem now, is the cable that goes from the handle to under the car, is on national backorder and can not even be ordered until the 8th. Sssssooooooo, in order to fire the motor, I need the transmission filed with fluid, in order to fill the transmission with fluid; I need the driveshaft in place. In order to install the emergency brake cables, I need the driveshaft out, see where I am going with this? So, I am stalling till the part comes in. Oh yeah. I broke the low pressure side fitting on my power steering pump, so I had to get a new one of those as well! I did sand blast the brackets and painted them, so it will look nicer, but there was just an example of more money to dump into it. Hell with it right?

 

COOL, thanks for the reply. i've got both prop valves so we'll see when the hydro gets here. I like your PCV system. Do you have vacuum going to the JAZ thing or just let the engine breathe normally? I considered your set-up but run a small vacuum hose to the turbo inlet. so under boost it would create a slight vacuum and help clear out the crankcase.

 

Looks good Ackbar, thanks for the extra pics. One more question and then I'll leave you alone, lol, did you put baffles on the underside of the valve cover where you drilled/tapped it? If so, what did you use to make them?

Thanks!

 

I just let it breeth as it normally would. and I do not have any baffles or anything. The hose that goes along the firewall and looks like it is custom made to go around the windsheild wiper motor, is actually a factory line off of a 98 Cobra going to its vacumm pump. Just was something I had that was bent in just the way I needed it to. I have had this setup for 4 years or so now and it never leaks a drop out of the catch can.

 

well, my hydro showed up today. I had brought my stock booster to work with me and looks like the mounting holes don't really come close.

So i removed the big nut and back plate from the hydro - knocked out the studs - put it up against the vacuum booster bolts and marked the location of those studs - drilled new holes and welded the studs in there new home. The hydro should now bolt right up to the firewall with no trimming required. I still haven't cut off the pedal eyelet on the plunger yet as i wanna see how close it is to lining up.

As for the prop valve - if my factory fox lines will screw into it i'm doing as you did. I'll still need to "T" off the front line which reminds me..... which line is for the front brakes coming out of the new master?

 

On my Hydro unit, there was a stud and 3 threaded mounting screws and one missing. You can see it in the picture I have on Post #15. I knocked out the stud and had to get another stud for the 4th hole. For me, everything lined up.

The lines should go in, they just need bent up in a different direction.

 

cool, yes i knocked out the stud as well. I didn't bother putting in a 4th stud (should I ?). Hydro bolted right up perfectly and since the new stud holes actually lowered the hydro i didn't need to weld the fox eyelet on. got my fox prop valve and new brake lines all done. i'll get pics of what i did there if you don't mind me posting up in your thread. Hell it may become a sticky with enough good info and pics. now i wish i photoed the stud relocation process but it's pretty easy to do.

 

How much is a "fair" price when buying a complete hydroboost?

 

dude, i've seen them range from $45 (without master) up to $150 complete. I happen to find mine here on tf.com for $65 with master, prop valve and anti-lock unit. All 96 up GT stangs have it, go junk yard hunting

 

Thanks! Dman post up your pics when you get a chance! The hydroboost seems to pay for itself if you haven't already bought a new master cylinder and adjust proportioning valve yet, not to mention everyone says to upgrade your booster as well. I'll def be doing this when I put my disc brakes in the rear. I've already got a 94/95 MC but I can sell that to make some boot back.

 

will do. also keep in mind the clocking on the accumulator on the 96-98 cars is different than the 99-up. Also seems the 96-98 Cobras don't use the adapter block on the side of the unit. much cleaner install. Mine is from a 2000 GT but still fits well and takes up a whole let less room. Not to mention looks alittle more high tech than the pregnant basketball of a booster

 

ok, here are some pics. I'll get better pics once the motor comes back out.

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Looks great, Mucho cleaner than the stock setup. I think I remember you filling some holes in your project thread, did you paint the engine bay with a rattle can?

 

yes sir. Duplicolor gloss "WHITE". looks pretty decent. I'll get some better shots of how i ran the hoses. I don't know if you can see in the 3rd pic to the left of the prop valve i drilled a hole in the strut tower just above the frame rail. There is a bulkhead "T" sticking thru there. The hose from the prop valve goes to it, that splits to both front tires. I used short Teflon hoses to make the connections. turned out pretty cool.