I ordered a new set of .110 needle and seats from jegs today. David what are your floats set

 

I've had two different gauges on the regulator and same thing. I'll check try again

 

Here's the story. Go out with new needle and seats, put them in readjust floats to 1/4 and still... Primaries flooding over. I decide to try the brass floats and waalaa! No more running over. Well... Fuel pressure seems pretty steady, jumping around very slightly like 4.5-6.5 nothing bad. Start it up and no fuel pressure. Thinking thinking and it hits me!!! What if I take the boost reference line off. So I do that and fuel pressure comes back. So now the it seems that the vacuum at idle is shutting the regulator. Can I just put a check valve in the line so it's closed while the engine has vacuum or do I need the line somewhere else.

 

Fuel pressure reference should come from your hat anyway, not manifold.
Those brass floats will not handle even 3 psi of boost.....

 

I need to figure out why they won't work.
Also I did a once over on the fuel system tightening everything just a bit more and it stayed steady at 6 for about 2 minutes so I guess one was loose.
On the floats, what else can I try doing?

 

Looks like I should have got these- https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetor_components/floats/parts/216-43
And I got these https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetor_components/floats/parts/116-1
I bought them at a speed shop, the guy helping said that would work. Well

 

Have you tried turning the float bowls upside down while blowing in the inlet? If it works when you change the floats then the problem is the plastic floats, just like mine was. You need to be thorough with checking them. Take away the needle, are the floats moving freely on their pivot point when turned upside down?

/David

 

They move free and when upside down they close tight! I really don't get it. The brass floats are quite a bit smaller as well. Possibly wrong floats.

 

Should I go ahead and order the 216-43 floats

 

I have the same ones you have. The other one doesn't seem to have the tabs for the spring?

/David

 

I think the tabs are on the other side in the picture. I just find it weird how you use the same ones and get it working great and I have it set up the same and it does lol.

 

I have had the same exact problem also When the needle is in place, is there any strain on the little wire on the needle that goes around the tab? Even the slightest strain can cause problems. I don't remember, perhaps I bent mine a little bit to make sure that it's not a problem. In your picture on page one I can't see how it's oriented.

/David

 

I cut the tabs back as you recommended. It doesn't seem like any strain it seems like there isn't enough travel

 

Looking trough my pictures i think that perhaps i bended the wire a little bit on the needle?

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In the picture with the brass floats you see that the little wire can move freely, no pressure or strain what so ever.

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Here you see that the total thickness of the material that the wire needs to pass is perhaps three times more.

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Try and bend it like this(nice paint picture) so it´s not touching that much..
I´m sorry i didn´t think of this before, but it´s been a while since i messed with this..

/David

 

I'll give that a try. Thank you

 

65 in primary seems great. Problem tho- once we get into the secondary's at all it falls on itsekf and its at or below 10:1 so we need to figure that out. Pulls hard with just primarys.
Secondary's have 77 in now

 

It did work with bending the wire? Nice to hear that your up and running! Strange with the secondary´s.. I think i have 78 in mine.

/David

 

We didn't bend the wire yes. I know I know- we need to but we wanted to start driving. Your rear power valve is blocked correct. I don't think we blocked ours. How do you do that and what's the purpose?

 

What's your primary at now? We probably need to up them a little as we are in low to mid 14 with the highest spike of 15.0 but that's never opening the secondaries.

 

Ok. I thought of the rear power valve, but I thought you had it blocked. Start with blocking it. You buy a plug with the same treads as the power valve, Holley has them. Dual power valves would support more power, if you need to drill your primary really much then perhaps using the rear one in addition could be an option. People recommend plugging the rear because they think that it can become shut during hard acceleration. Until I have heard from someone that this has happened to, I think it's bullshit.

/David