It's an E4OD.

 

My 96 F150 has the VSS located in the 8.8 housing. The sensor works perfect with the pimp x shift I am running. It would be a bit of a hassle doing it the same but the sensor works fine.
Pic lifted.

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Can you use a driveshaft mount hall effect speed sensor?

 

Background: Like Pro-SC said, the trucks this trans came in used a diff mounted speed sensor, which my diff has no provision for. Some E4OD's have a regular speedo drive on the output shaft as well, but this particular transmission does not.

I *think* I have figured out what I need to do. Stock, the cruise and speedo use a signal direct from the VSS. (AC sine wave). I am using an ABS sensor, which also outputs an AC sine. The Bauman can read this signal just fine. The problem is the output. It outputs a square 0-5V or 0-12V DC pulse to drive a speedo. I did some reading and found where Bauman addresses this by recommending the addition of a 10uf 25v non-polarized capacitor to offset this to a +2.5v to -2.5v pulse to mimic an AC wave. I will give this a whirl and see if it works. If not, I have some other ideas floating in my head.

 

i have used this unit a number of times for e4od/eec swaps into older vehicles. and also for gear changes on electronic only vehicles
https://www.dakotadigital.com/index...id=1192/category_id=287/mode=prod/prd1192.htm

 

That's a neat piece. Thanks for the tip!

 

I was looking at that also for my 88, looks like a good deal.

 

Ordered some rear tires for it. I went with a Nitto 555 R2. I wanted a drag radial on the back but also wanted something that would do ok street driving and be durable, The R2 seems to have a reputation as being a goods street tire and an ok drag radial. Not as good as a MT ET Street on the track, but also not as treacherous in the rain. The MT tires are crazy expensive so that was also a consideration. So basically I compromised. I don't think this car will 60 foot super fast anyway (guessing 1.6x 60's times) so they will probably be fine.

This decision also has Raceweek implications. I have slicks that fit this car and the 83GT, but the True Street classes require a DOT approved tire. So if we decide to do TS, we can run these tires all week. At the track and on the road if we want. The drawback is with 552" of mega-torquey BBF power, it may be quite hard to get a clean launch.

 

I have been thinking hard about using a 4r70w instead of the E4OD. The E4 would be a tough trans and would likely work great, but it's a big girl and we might just have a better home for it..... In Judd's Galaxie. This would give the Galaxie the ability to run the current 4.10's and still be able to cruise on the highway. (Already planning for RMRW in 2026 after Judd graduates, haha)

Nobody makes a transbrake valvebody for an E4 so I would be stuck with never having an option to go to a brake. Jake just so happens to have a 4r (mod motor) and he wants my AOD for the '95 SN95 he just bought, so we worked a deal.

You can get a manual valvebody for a 4r and you don't have to have any electronics if you so choose. The lockup and OD can just be run off a toggle switch.

 

I built a 4r70w for a 94 super coupe I built with a 302. I used a core from a 99 mustang V6 and built it with J mod and updated clutches and frictions. Used an AODE sensor to fool the 94 5.0 auto pcm, worked really well. You could always bolt up a 6r80 if you felt the need, they have them for sbf but I am sure I saw them for BBF too.

https://transmissionadapters.com/blogs/blog/sbf-to-6r80-kit-is-in-the-works

 

We are getting ready to build one to replace my AOD that is currently in my friend Neal's car. Freddy Brown and SilverFox are both great sources for parts and valvebodies. Both are great tech resources as well. Look for a local Wahtever It Takes (WIT), they carry the good clutches and rebuild kits at a great price.

 

One area I am going to immediately address is cooling. I have not even started this thing yet, but having just done RMRW in the 83GT where the air temps were near 100 degrees, I am 100% sure this stock sized radiator will be inadequate. They make bigger drop-in radiators for these cars, but I ordered a dual pass 31x19 that I think I can sneak in there. With the big fan and a dual pass, I expect it to do really well.

A dual pass has the inlet and outlet on the same side (driver) so that will free up space by the turbo inlet, which is a good thing.

 

Bummer. The company that made the 4r70w to bbf bellhousing discontinued them.

 

They aren't cheap but Quicktime has them listed. https://www.holley.com/products/drivetrain/bellhousings/parts/RM-9011

 

Thanks! How did I miss that??

 

If you need that get with me.

 

Aw hell, I ordered it before I saw this. If it goes sideways, I'll holler at ya.

 

Side project: Jake's 95GTS. Jake picked this up a few weeks ago. It is a 95 GTS that was turned into a Cobra clone. 347, iron 351 heads, head studs, adjustable rockers, long tubes, unknown camshaft, (B Cam maybe sounds good) Edelbrock intake, BBK throttlebody, 30# injectors with matching MAF, SVT radiator, 7 qt oil pan, 3.73 gears, TR3550 trans, lowering springs, aluminum driveshaft.

The kid he bought it from really didn't know anything about it. We think he bought it for a project but didn't really know anything about cars. The rear tires were super old and sketchy and it from the dirt build up on stuff it appears as if it has been sitting outside for quite a while.

Jake bought tires for his Racestar wheels and has made some minor underhood repairs. It's been fun because we keep discovering thing about it. We thought it was a warmed over 302 with a T5, but discovered it is a 347 with a Tr3550. His plan is to do a single turbo (On3 kit maybe) later, so he wanted to swap to an automatic. We decided to put the AOD from the 83GT in it. He wanted to do it while he was still home because he wouldn't have "the Dad cheat code" (his words) back in CoS. Haha.

Anyway he got it all apart last week and yesterday we poked the AOD in. We got lucky and the headers cleared it. We did have to loosed one so the trans would slip in between. He is going to come up today and start putting it back together. Overall it's a pretty good start for a project car. Definitely a late 90's / early 2000's build that someone put a lot of money and effort into.

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Dual pass radiator showed up today and I wasted no time jamming it into the car. It really didn't require much work as it fits in the space very nicely. The gigantic stock electric fan even fits and clears everything.

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If you end up going with a manual valvebody in the 4r70w let me know your impressions. I looked at it hard for my Jeep to try and get overdrive in that thing, but I am suspicious it will shift hard all the time, which isn't great for that application.

The other problem is the 4r70 is the lockup convertor, it was the first of the "sort of smart" convertors where it made the 4r act more like a 5 speed. They work pretty well, especially in the mountains.

The aftermarket controllers aren't much more than a manual valve body, by the time you buy a replacement convertor a controller makes a bunch of sense. Of course you will probably do something high stall for this car and none of the above matters