Re: Finally starting (the efi part)

Looks like you are getting close. I don't know about the fast but the MSII was pretty easy to come up with a start tune. That was even with using a PWM, IAC and calibrating the Dodge TPS. I left the igniton to be controlled by the distributer until I get the fuel nailed down 1/2 decent.

 

Re: Finally starting (the efi part)

Will use lokar or BMX cable for the transmission, yes, on the Ford mount since it swings forward. My biggest problem right now is figuring out what kPa is what in the fast program!

 

Re: Finally starting (the efi part)

Depending on the weather, 98-100kpa is atmosphere, 'round these parts it is.

 

Re: Finally starting (the efi part)

#ad


There's the fix I did, I altered the bracket to hold the cable on the underside. I welded a little bead on the underside to make sure the cable can't squirt out the bottom.
It's real close to holding it WOT now, better than it was. Pedal feel is also better. I'll probably try it like this to see how it feels driving before I knock off the bracket and reweld to the TB. May eventually need to chop the cable bracket for lower mounting as well.


Also got the relay, fuse, and toggle switch for the fuel pump done. The switch ties into the same feed the 12v trigger for the ECU uses, off the ballast resistor. So pump runs when the key is in start or run, with the ability to kill it via a toggle. The pump is a lot quieter inside the car than I figured (compared to my Coronet with no interior and everything solid mounted)

kPa goes from 8 to 208 on the tables in FAST, Booster said 8 is probably a little low for my idle. ~100 being 1/2way up the table makes sense for 0" hg gauge then, since it's set to a 2bar map. Booster also gave me an older GCT of his, changing from 340 to 383 and changing injector size is probably enough to run as well.

 

Re: Finally starting (the efi part)

https://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=122508.0

cranking but not starting.....

 

Re: Finally starting (the efi part)

The bracket looks pretty good!

 

Re: Finally starting (the efi part)

Thanks. I may eventually need to knock off the bracket on the TB and reweld. I matched the angle of the OEM one but I really should have set it up at 10 o clock to mimic a carb. The pedal isn't bad, but the travel is a little short. It's way too soft without the extra spring as well. Using the pedal it's just a touch short of full open, but the TPS reads 93%. Will be good enough to start.

 

Re: Finally starting (the efi part)

Just tweak the rod in the car that holds the pedal. That will get you 100%

 

Re: Finally starting (the efi part)

Verified a few things last night, still not running. Plugs are dry so I'm not getting fuel for some reason. I'm updating the other thread
https://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=122508.0
with that detail in hopes EFI guys in general will think of something I'm missing...

 

Re: Finally starting (the efi part)

dang ballast circuit anyway. I think I may have the dizzy off quite a bit tho. When the dashboard says 10* timing as running, I should see 10* on my dialback timing light, correct? Right now I see 52. It idles pretty smooth at 800rpm for the cam, so I could see the timing being up there. On warn start it kicked back a couple times too like too much timing. Also, when I give it throttle I get bangs and pops, as tho the timing is off. Sound like I need to retard the dizzy housing and recheck?
Or, since it's got too much adv, try setting the ref angle in the ECU to 100* and see what happens?

 

Aren't you supposed to make the 2 match by turning the dist? If you crank the dist down to match then it will be running a true 50* lead time. Then the dist will be synced properly and the rotor will be closer to the proper terminal when firing. If it isn't close enpouph to the terminal you may end up with it cross firing. Never done it before though just running theory. Congrats on getting it running, I know I was stoked about the first fire of my EFI.

 

Talking to my 'mentor' last night on it, he thinks the dizzy is probably in right and the rotor phasing, but that I need to move the breaker plate so that it triggers sooner. He said it's hard to know if it triggers on the leading edge, middle, or trailing edge. I'm going to change the crank ref angle to the max it'll allow first tho to see if that brings the timing down on the light.

 

Oh sorry I was thinking you were using the dist for the only trigger...

 

Had to move the breaker plate as far as the pickup wires would let me plus move the housing about 10*. Not sure how I could have been that far off. Idles at 10*btdc on my timing light now tho, and sounds right. The rotor maybe off phase now tho.
The idle surges some, fiddling with the gain controls for the IAC didn't seem to make a diff. I'm only at 9" of vac in park @ 850rpm too, which is pretty low for a 268H cam. I don't think this motor has ever pulled a lot of vac, but that seems really low. Did a quick spray around the intake and elbow base and didn't hear any changes.
Big stumble when I hit it, but until spring comes with clean dry roads there's not a lot more I can do with the software. Plenty of hardware tidying up can be done though.
My goal was to have it running before our daughter was born. Due date is 8 days away, so I came out ahead of schedule

 

Very good!!! Sounds like you are getting there.

 

ya, looking for things I think the idle is too lean, it's set to 14:1 right now off Jim's program. He's got nice swirl port heads and he adds fuel all the way to 190*, I took some of that out. I'll try 13.5:1 in the idle area to see if that helps the surging.

I was afraid at first my O2 sensor was not working, but then looking thru the manual I remembered that if there is afterstart fuel added it won't go into closed loop. Jim had extra fuel almost till t-stat open, I took that down just so that I could see the O2 kick in. At idle the correction was bouncing from -3 to 3%, so his stuff was pretty close. New timing may change that some.
I did back off the CTS vs extra fuel table quite a bit, once I got it to stay running it seemed to be loading up a lot until I backed that down.

Another oddity:
many of the tables seem to put the bubble at 1/2 the actual rpm. The dashboard and target af table show it correct but the other's don't, the floating bubble is at 1/2 the rpm. The mindashboard on those tables seems right but the bubble isn't....I'll have to test this more.

 

Spent some time this weekend with the warm weather trying to tune the idle and such. Adjusted the throttle stop and TPS so that I'm low on the IAC when at hot idle and have enough room for it to run the cold idle at 1200rpm.
Still having surging at hot idle, tried timing from 5-20* and a/f from 11-14 but nothing seemed to effect it much. I did enable the idle timing trim and that cured the surge but the idle is rough as it was moving from 10-20*.
Plenty of work to do even before it goes on the road but it is pretty nice to turn the key and have a 70 Plymouth turn over, fire up, and go to a 1200rpm cold idle then throttle down to 850rpm, all in 35* weather today.

 

That is the exact reason I went to EFI. Carbs can do alot but that is one thing they can't. Sounds like you are getting it down pretty good.

 

I'm figuring a few things out. Finally figured out how to put a full dashboard on each table, shoulda thought of right click sooner, doh! I had to completely reset the throttle follower as well once I brought the throttle blades up and the IAC down, took me a few minutes to figure out why it wouldn't idle down. I still have some dead spot when I hit it from idle but it's not near as bad now that I have the IAC down low. I've got it starting better cold now too, I open the IAC way up on startup. Tried to give it some more fuel to match that and promptly flooded it. It's really nice to have the fuel pump tied into the key and a toggle so I can kill it and still run the motor, instant cure for flooding!
Also had to redo the weatherpak connector I did on the TPS. I had never seen those before so I wasn't sure exactly where the wire went and I put it too far in and the connectors weren't clicked in fully so the sensor was dropping out off and on.

 

On the flooding thing. The MS has a clear flood feature that will shut down the injectors while cranking at a set TPS %. I you suspect it is flooded just open up the throttle like on a carb. I wish I could be tuning mine now. Good luck and get'er done.