why try to make a valve when there are allready valves available for this application?

Just do an X instead of a normal merge and put a 2nd wastegate inline with one of the pipes heading up to the turbo flange. might take a little work to figure out the packaging but it should be possible.

 

I was thinking like this. And you could do a single opening. Just do a reducer inside so it has a smooth transation. (cone, header reducer welded in the pipe going into the mouth of the inlet. like 3in to 2.25 in. it should work better than a block off

Or if you wan't to get really crazy , do like some of the fighter jets do and make an adjustable end on the engine to limit the thrust.
but i can really see this working like the way i did it. if its a 1.00 housing, block off half then get a wastegate that will flow an additional .5a/r.

I may do this if my h2d doesn't spool up in time

Steve

 

If you split the incoming exhaust into two pipes you could run one of THESE.

I saw a 2006 Z06 (505hp 7.0L LS7) in the shop yesterday, they have those valves in the tailpipes for noise reduction. The valve was stamped 'Pierburg' so I Googled it.
I know heat is going to be a lot more up front at the turbo and it's probably very expensive but it's just another idea to throw in there.

 

slide valve

pny pwr....

What slide valve r u refering to?

I've located a couple of heat riser valves, but the only thing about these are there is an awful lot of clearence around the butterfly and the housing, up to 3/16 to 1/4" all the way around the valve. I'm thinking that it will hold some exhaust back, but not enough for what we want to do. I couldn't find one with a great seal, or I would have bought it to try.

Another thought, if throttle bodies can hold pressure on the intake track, could we use a throttle body off of another car to put into the exhaust tract (one side of the housing inlet) and open it when the desired PSI is reached? Like a round monoblade about the same size as one of the intake tubes feeding 1 of the housing inlets.

Of course, the heat would be hell on it, and carbon build-up would make routine maintenance a must, but I wouldn't mind trying it.

Any thoughts? This is gonna happen, and I don't mind being the guinea pig.

D Moss

 

This is perfect......except for the price.

http://www.streetpro.us/

D Moss

 

these are less:
http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/store/cart.php


you can get the valve for $150, and hook it up to a cutout ($26 at summit)

 

not heavy duty enough, would warp and bind under heat. The wastegate idea is better, they can take the abuse.

 

look at motorcycle racing carburetors look for slide valve carbs.

you would need to build your valve but do it like those. no restriction when open at all and could be built to seal off pretty well even under high heat conditions.

if I get ambitious Ill draw up a pic or something

 

wastegate

The only thing about a wastegate would be would it flow enough exhaust gas to the turbing to match what is going into the first side.

I was thinking the wastegate, fully open, would be a restriction in the exhaust piping, instead of the straight through design of the cutout. Now, if the WG is big enough to let enough exhaust stream through to equalize the flow through both inlets of the tangeal housing, it should work wonders.

If the wastegate would work good enough, one of those cheap ass SSAUTOCHROME WG's would be a good for this.

D Moss

 

Bookmarking.

 

Just look at the bottom of this page, and when you see " Subscribe to this Thread " click on it and you are in.

 

is this big enough here ?

Steve

 

I just got back from the metal shop guys. I cut some plates by torch for a buddy and me. I used 1/4 inch mild steel plate. These plates were just cut and i didnt have time to clean em up yet. I'll cut extras if anyone needs em.

 

wastegate

Or this monster, off of a porshe.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Very...ewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQitemZ8003662811QQrdZ1

 

Once I saw this thread and where it was gong, I have been thinking that a second wastegate would be perfect for this, but I'm sure there is already a product out there for this, we just have to find it. :lol:

 

Just get one of these, it IS ready made!
(Previously posted by braxton 357)
http://www.atsturbo.com/ATSWebsite/ProductsDodge/PDTurboSystems.asp

 

Yes I saw that, I'm talking about something to retro fit to existing turbos.

 

That turbo is nice.

 

Hi just wanted to say thanks for the idea. I just fitted a t4 to my 1.8 nissan engine and found that boost was coming in at about 6k (with 6.8 redline). But rather than bin it I fitted a plate to the turbine inlet and now it comes in at 5k (full boost). Just shows it was way too big! I dont think I'll bother to make a valve its fine as it is. By the way I made the plate in a sort of t shape so you only have to slacken the bolts - could be good during the winter on a street driven race car?
thanks again

Ben

 

On a single tang .I guess a divider could be added that fits up in turbine housing.Though may not requre any cut off plate etc but it may keep velocity higher??