They don't make a pro-flo for the b block

 

Regarding the E---brock logo on my CH4B (or whatever the hell it is). This was almost FIVE years ago.

 

I think the problem is that pictures lthat big SHOULD NEVER BE QUOTED! We don't need to see them posted 10 times in a row!

My boss is gonna hear my mouse wheel scrolling for 2 mins straight and figure out I'm not working.

 

Look for a write upon text coming weeks on this. I'm going to take a bunch of picks along the way for future references for others. Been a while since I've seen an in-depth how to.

 

That's good news! I did a handful of intake conversions via drilled/tapped brass fittiings in the past few years. I've described the results in a handful of forums over the years but never did a dedicated thread on them. Be a better helper than me!

 

The biggest reason I never do how-to stuff is because as I am doing it I have no idea how it will turn out or if it will even work. LOL

 

I check everything more then a dozen times before I'm satisfied. If I fuck something up ill post that to.LOL. I've been told im good ad giving detailed descriptions of what I'm doing. I'll put that to the test for sure.

 

oops, I'm obviously not in the MOPAR know... sorry...

 

Cw what size drill bit did you use for the final size? My bungs are 3/4" od and wanting to know if I need to have some gap in there for the epoxy to hold better?

 

I used a step bit to drill with then finished with a dremmel. It was pretty getto. LOL Nothing was precise at all. I just got the hole real close and then used the injector to hold the bung in place while the epoxy dried. I rouphed up the bung with a grinder to give the epoxy something to bite into.

 

My holes are a bit large so I could lean the bugs closer to spraying the top of the valves. Very ghetto, but going to be nice when done I hope. How does the inside of your intake runner look like? Does the injectors sit in the runner at all or are they high enough not to interfere with the pathway?

 

You won't be able to spray directly onto the valves in a BB Mopar, it's not a straight path to the end of the port. You can't even see the valve when looking in the port (on stock heads, anyway).

The bung and injector should not protrude into the runner. Instead, IMHO, the injector should be as high as possible (to get the widest, atomized pattern before it hits the opposite intake runner wall), yet low enough that the pattern does not hit the edges of the bung. If you can lay it back a little that would probably help. Hughes Engines has a Magnum manifold with greater injector angles and they claim it makes a benefit.


My experience (with installing modified pipe-fitting bungs):
I've drilled and tapped modified pipe fittings into 3-4 manifolds so far with varying degrees of success. I have only a wobbly drillpress and a welder to make jigs. Injectors seem to be forgiving of misalignment between the bungs and the rails. Do the best you can, but don't get too worried (the O-rings seal to the bung on the side edge, not on the bottom face). My results arose from drilling and tapping a pipe thread at an angle to the manifold runner, which is tougher to get straight than using a jig to align bungs for welding them in.


In my estimation, +/- 1/16' will get you within a window where O-rings will seal. My 2nd manifold had 1 injector that was noticeably misaligned (by maybe 1/8"?), the others were 'average', and it sealed OK.

For the skeptics, those who believe anything done under a shade tree will not work '“
With every completed manifold, I installed fuel rails and injectors, and sealed the manifold openings with wooden/gasketed blockoff plates. I pressurized the intakes to 60-ish psi and sprayed with soapy water -- and I have never seen a leak around an O-ring. I sometimes see leaks around my tapped bung fittings, but that's another story'¦

 

CW25 can answer as well, but IMHO the runners should be sunk deep enough for a good gluejoint, then ground flush inside the runner. You don't want the bungs to be a rock in the stream.

 

I am trying to set the injectors tip at the edge of the runner. It does protrude due to the injectors mounts not being tall enough to keep it out of there. I looked at a few stock efi intake and they do that slightly with the tip barely in the runner. I think I may leave it that way, but I'm stop debating it all.

 

The intake runners are smooth on the inside nothing protrudes but the tip is right on the edge of the runner. Most stock type system are like this. Not saying stock is good but seems to work fine.

 

And to clarify something I mentioned earlier, raising the injector to get a wider portion of the spray pattern in the runner might only involve raising by 1/8' or so, maybe a little more.
This might be a benefit on wide-spray versions, but not pencil-stream injectors.
Depending on the bung, enlarging/chamfering the bung outlet slightly might be required if raising injectors.
It's all just speculation, and would require some R&R testing to determine the difference, and it would probably take more time than most of us have for such experimentation.

The idea of a steep intake runner (like a tunnel ram) with narrow-cone injectors mounted underneath, shooting down the center of the port toward the wall at the end (which is surely quite hot) is intriguing to me.

Here's a picture that sparked some of my musings:

#ad

 

I made two of my own. I had access to a mill, lathe and TIG when I did this. No sheet metal brakes or the like. I machined the throttle body mount and all the associated parts out of pieces gotten from the scrap bin at the local metal supply house. Both of these are for the RB block. I figured I'd show you what you can accomplish with some patience and access to the right equipment. I'm not a professional machinist, fabricator or welder - I'm just a regular ol' gear head that had a hood clearance issue that needed an EFI manifold. I built these well before the XT came out, and just before the Victor EFI came out. The Victor EFI was too tall for my application.

First one. This one is not all the great looking. I had about 30 mins of aluminum welding experience when I started making it. I actually made a die and mold to make my own intake runners out of standard old sheet aluminum. They are one piece, with a weld in the seam - 10 degree taper.







Here's the second one. I like the looks of this one better, but the top shifted while I was welding.



Runners welded and smoothed.





I have since welded the injector bungs in and machined fuel rails for it, but I don't have pics of that. I may try to get some up later this week or something. I've been wanting to get some good pics of it installed/completed.

 

tubbed440 those seem nice for sure. i however can not weld, dont have access to a tig either. so i have to compromise or spend a ton to get what i need. it would be nice to have a high dollar welder. i just dont have one and cant see spending on one when i cant weld in the first place. i have actually debated on weather or not jbweld could hold the seems of an intake like that. i may find out one day if i get a wild hair up my ass and tons of free time. so now i have to do the redneck thing and jbweld in some bungs on an already made carb intake. i also dont car for welds on an intake either. i like the fluid cast appearance of cw25's. im getting ready to post up a how to epoxy in bungs in a few minutes. i just did one side of my intake for the most part, but still have to clean up the inside runners for the extra bung overhang left in them to help with the sealing of the epoxy.

 

Just a thought, but you may be able to get your local welding house to weld some bungs in for you. In my experience, JB weld breaks down over time with heat and fuel. I understand that most don't have the access to the proper equipment - matter of fact, I never did until I started working where I was at 2 years ago. I was just like everyone else and thought that I would never be able to do it. I guess I just lucked up one day and found myself in a position to do something like this. I guess what I'm saying is don't count yourself out - if you really want it, you can figure out a way to do it.

 

Hey Turbofreek '“
Check your progress on your manifold to make sure it's not leaking, before you do the other side, in case you want to try something different.

For this, I made sealing plates from some 1x4 wood, and used a piece of innertube as a gasket. Make plates for both side of the intake and also the plenum. Bolt '˜em on with some fender washers.

I sealed the bungs by installing injectors and using the fuel rail to hold them in. Edelbrock fuel rails for Mopar are about $90-100 but they'll save a lot of time/grief over making your own.

I drilled-tapped ¼-20 holes in the little flat bosses between the runners and used socket-head capscrews to affix Eddy's hold-downbrackets. A balldriver Allen wrench allows installing the fuel rail assemblies easily without unbolting the brackets, and made mockup work a little easier. A stack of washers between the bracket and manifold might be necessary depending on how tall your bungs are.

Easiest way then is to put a quick-connect into the power brake port and pressurize it with your air compressor. I did mine with a little regulator and gauge so I could '˜creep up' on where it might leak, but I think just setting the regulator on your air compressor (if it's easily adjustable) would be enough. Spray the bungs with soapy water.