I gotta tell you, if it was a clutch you had in the car and it caused it to wipe out the thrust on an engine I built, I wouldn't have freshened the motor for free for you. So I can certainly see why it took as long as it did to be resolved. Glad it's resolved, though.

 

The guy that built the car put the clutch in NOT me. Becuase he was to cheep to buy one they had a spec 5 laying around the shop so he used it nowing he was going to sell the car. And the free refresh lol got a bill today 650.00 for short block and 800.00 R & R. Half price he said. Go back and read the whole post.

 

You guys thought i was bullshitting about a 1/4" end play. Went to put the front cover on and look at the cracks around the front seal. So how did this happen with the oil pump bolted to the block and the pump is not torn up.?

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well the same thing happened to me and i hade an auto in the car...so i think it has nothing to do with your transmission... mine was alot worst..in my opinion it is all on the engin builder..

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I bet you were running a glide.? Did it eat up your front cover, i didnt see it till i went to clean it up you could not see the cracks with dirt on it . What outher damage did it do to your motor.?

 

4R70W by lentech
Modular Power House shortblock

 

Is that all the way threw.?
I have seen a lot like that most of them 5 & 6 sped car ,even mine & they were OEM casting marks...

 

There on the back side to. At first i thought it was casting marks to untill i took a good look.

 

if fcuked my block and crank up...it didn't do anything to my front cover cause i caught it in time...i think this thing went bad b/c the trust bearing doesn't get enough oil..

 

Those look like cast flash marks to me.

Have you tried to pour water or try to push air through?

Was it leaking oil from there?

 

Not to step on toes...but.... that appears to be a oil issue. Maybe installed dry? That would do some damage right at start up then once the oil got to it it slowed it down slightly. Or way to tight?

Now onto another subject. Wouldnt that play hell with timing chain gears, chain tensioners, and piston/rods? I doubt there is that much slack in all them parts.

I have ran some dam hard clutches on my projects with no damage like that. Of course they are pushrod motors but all in all it should work the same.

 

thats what i was thinking,i dont see how the whole crank could possibly move that much.

 

The cover does not leak yet but the cracks are on the back side two. wondering if it was that way before the thrust problem hard to see when its in the car. the block is good and the rods and pistons were good. He just rehoned the bores and line bored the mains and put all new rings and bearings in and had it balanced and said everything is fine. We will see soon.

 

If it were me I'd check the timing gear teeth. They could be a little chewed from the sideload the crank endplay had on it.

A hard clutch usually only ruins thrust surfaces if it's incorrectly adjusted. Such as too tight of a clutch cable and the thrust surface is always seeing pressure.

Think about how much a clutch is actually pushed in. I bump my car into neutral at stop lights and to slow down. So in a 30 minute in town drive the clutch engagement time is only a couple minutes at most.

 

Well back from the dead. We think we found out what ate the thrust bearing up. There are two crank gears for the 4.6 , there is a thin set for the thick trigger wheel and a thick set for the thin trigger wheel, come to find out mine had the thick crank gears and the thick trigger wheel and was pulling the crank forward. The bad thing is that no one saw this while putting three oil pumps on the motor. I just thought i would throw this out there where someone else would not make the same mistake. And no i or my guy did not do this the short block was bought from someone else when the motor was built so i guess you never know what your getting when you buy a short block from someone you don't know.

 

It will not pull it forward. If anything the cover would try to push it backward if they got it on and didn't notice the 1/2 gap.

 

I called him back and i miss understood him , it was the thin crank gear and the thin trigger wheel, he said with the thin crank gear it should have had the thick trigger wheel. I don't know if that changes the answer you gave or not but would like to know. wouldn't the thin gear and the thin wheel leave to much slack in the front of the crank.?

 

Still has nothing to do with burning up the thrust.

 

Can you PM me the shop that did your work?