Hmmm... Interesting. Makes sense too. I'll give that a try sometime soon. Thanks for the tip!
I pulled the plugs back last Thursday after getting the car off the transport. After going over to my buds house with the old plugs we were discussing how one of them looked notably cleaner than the other seven and wet. ?!! We discussed this revelation and he lent me one of his sets of coils off one of his LS1 Fbodies to test the coils as well. (You may know him. His name is Brian Grimal). Seeing how testing coils is much easier than swapping injectors, I crossed my fingers and swapped the drivers side coil set first. Right off the bat, it started with more authority and idled smoother. I thought "Wow! It's ignition coils?". So I decided to take a quick drive. It was so much better but after about a block it was obvious, it's running on 7 cylinders. Holy crap! In one of my earlier posts I'd mentioned that previous to this, it felt like it was running on 6. It must have been! So, encouraged but puzzled, I drove back to the garage and swapped on the other sides coil set. Took a drive. Bah.. still on 7. And I mean it is a DEAD cylinder, whichever one it is. It doesn't occasionally hit. It's missing in action/AWOL completely. So back to the garage. I'm letting it cool down now. I'm going to pull the plugs again and have a look at them. I'm hoping one of them on the drivers side is totally fouled and all it will take is a new set of plugs. After I pull them, I'll lay them across the top of the valve covers, turn on the key and spin the motor over with my remote starter button to see if they spark or not.

 

What year did LT-1's have indiviual coils? Is it a newer 96-97? My 95' has one coil and the opti-spark...

I had the car scanned the other day, Mine said it was mis-firing on #8 cylinder and the readings from the O2's was wacky....I ended up using 3/4 of a tank of fuel just getting it 45 miles up the road home! I stopped and bought 2 new Bosch sensors and a single spark plug in case I cracked one putting it in....I checked the plug, it was clean and had a little black streak on it....Not sure if it was a crack or what...

I replaced that plug and checked the wire back to the opti, The boot on the opti was on but not as far as the rest of the wires...I pulled it off and pushed it back on till it clicked.

I went topside and turned the key, it fired right away and sounded much smoother. It revved perfectly now too! But after a second or two of running it got a bit of a sour idle....still on all 8 cylinders but the speed seems too low or something....Idles at 600 in gear and a bit rough. What would cause the thing to idle low? I removed the air pump etc. And added headers but otherwise the motor is really stock as far as operating systems go....Everyone's asking if I put a cam in it...Cause it idles rougher like a bigger cam was installed. Plenty of vacumn though.

I see there is a idle set-screw on the throttle body....I am going to set the idle up to about 900 in neutral and 750 in gear and see if that works...I am not able to change it in the computer so it will be by turning that set-screw.

 

I"m using TurboBob's LTCC ignition setup
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=LTCC+bailey+Lt1+Ls1+coil

 

I haven't updated this thread in awhile but here's the rest of the story...
After wasting about $1,000.00 buying sensors, hardware, wires, etc and speeding hours and hours taking things apart only to find they're fine and putting them back together now, I finally bought stock ignition coil/ICM/Plug Wires and the damned car started right up. I then had to address the power steering pump screws being stripped out. I pulled the bracket and heli coiled it. Then it started leaking badly. I replaced the high pressure hose, thinking I'd tweaked it and cracked the metal line. It still leaked. Phock.. I decided it was the pump and replaced it. Still leaked I get under the car cussing and moving my drop light around and see that in my effort to get the bracket out, I'd pushed the low pressure line into the path of the serpentine belt and it had chaffed a hole in the line. Replaced that section of line with a chunk of appropriate line and a couple of nipples. Took the car out on the road gingerly and tested 3rd gear a couple of times. My GAWD how powerful! At low speeds going to/from work in Houstons rush hour traffic, it drives like a stock car. Push the pedal down and let it get up to full boost, farking SCARY. I dyno'd it this past Saturday on a dynapack chassis dyno and got 571/574 Rear wheel Tq/Hp at 12 psi.
After all the hell, with this performance, it all seems worth it. The car is a dream to drive and everything I hoped it would be.
Thanks,
Dave

 

just read through all of your adventures, nice to see it turned out good for you! Do you have any pictures of the rest of the car and the rear end set-up?

-Eldon

 

Not really. I need to take some of the rest of the car. Mind you, I've strived to keep it looking as stock as possible for the stealth factor. Only the front mounting intercooler gives it away. The differential is a ford mustang 8.8 center section with the torque arm mounts welded to the cast iron. The stock GM 10 bolt Legs came off my stock differential after it ate 3 teeth off the ring gear during an MTI Spring Break shootout (11.00 index. Got 3rd that year). The guy that did it had a website like www.extremechassis.com or something like that but ieither he's out of the business or it's under a new name.
It's been on the car since 2003

 

+

LT series motors never came with individual coils. you can convert them to the LS series coils with the LS computer or convert it to the northstar coil set up but other then that theres not factory coil near plug LT motor

 

no LT1 pcm recognizes the northstar coil packs, that requires the older 730/727 pcm. also you need to change the reference angle and a few other things....which forces you to use a hack of some sort. You also need a northstar crank trigger wheel, ignition module, and patience of a saint to get it working.

 

You can use a Delteq distributor and use the northstar coilpacks with the OEM LT1 PCM.

http://www.delteq.com

With this kit, using coilpacks becomes a "bolt-on" thing.

I am using the LTCC ignition box. It plugs like a regular ignition box and taps in the optispark harness. The outputs are for individual LS series coils instead of a single coil out+distributor. You can now remove the rotor from your optispark and use only the optical sensor part witch is very reliable.

http://www.bailey-eng.com/LTCC.html