Dodge 5.9 cummins have squiters and the piston will fail if they are plugged by anything. I have seen it happen a few times.

 

Some rods have a deflector at the small end of rod.. Some say its to balance .. But it's also to direct splashing oil up under pistons..
Lexus V8's have small hole through rod, not only for piston.. But sprays on thrust side of bore as well..
My custom Oliver rods have pressurised pins with oil gallery through rod, oil spurts out under piston ..

 

has anyone looked at this set-up? i assume it is the same as main gallery mods boost engineer referred to earlier on...

http://www.blp.com/pdf/NP2006.pdf

 

Nice. I wish I could see a better pic of what that is and how it works. Where do those half moon's attach?

 

They bolt to the Main bearing saddle and have a hardened sleeve that you put the bit through to drill the hole over into the bore. I spoke to someone who has done several of those using the fixture...you have to be very careful.

 

they make a huge difference on any endurance engine, yates nascar team actually drilled down the pan rail of the motor sports block and machined flats in the crank case area to to accept the piston squirters. Roush didnt machine the block at all the used a spacer inbetween the pan and the block and ran oil through the spacer, RCR's teams did the exact same thing. now all the blocks from all ford chevy toyota and dodge come cast with squirters. the more squirters with smaller holes the better. think of it like standing in a shower with hot water the farther u stand away from it the cooler the water gets if u just have one then the oil stream stays hot, and ur trying to cool the piston down thats all. when i work with toyota we actually were able to run a solid point of A/F leaner then if we only ran one squirter. we had 2 squirters with .020 holes drilled in them. there is some good changes u can make if u run squirters and have the money to play with pistons and rings.

 

You won't find much encouraging info on this topic as far as doing it to a motor
that doesn't have them from the factory.

I put a set in my 434 sbc.

Give me a few days to do a write up and post some pic's and I'll show you where to
buy the check valves and tubing for the nozzles and how to make some simple tools
that will make the job easy.

It's not that hard to do.

https://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=121041.msg1202704#msg1202704

 

Hey TTAWD any progress on the write-up? Would be really interested to see what you did. Thanks.

 

I saw the pics of your carb spacer in the other thread. A buddy set a NHRA National Record with a 74 455 SD Pontiac using this:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/De_Laval_nozzle

The "Rocket Nozzle Carb Spacer" (4" tall) was worth 30 REAL HORSEPOWER.

The guy who set the record was an ASTRONAUTICAL Engineer named Craig Hendrickson.

Food for thought, boys.

Tom Vaught

 

maybe I'm over simplifing that but isn't that just a specialized venturi?

 

Correct, Rocket Nozzles ARE "Specialized Venturis"

Deal is to design one that picks up power on the engine when the "Venturi" is between the Carburetor and the Intake Manifold. The 4 hole deals from some of the PROs make extra hp but not 30 real hp more.

Tom Vaught

 

Sorry it's taken me so long to get back with pic's & tech on this.

I will do my best to explain how and why I did it the way I did it but here goes.

This is a check valve from The Lee Co.
It has a cracking psi of 29 lbs.

I built manifold to test it and it starts to drip oil at 29 psi!

It looks to be fully open at about 45 psi as the oil spray
is moving good from 45 on up

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The nozzles I used are 3/16 ss tubing with a .039 ID.

McMastercarr has the tubing

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Cyl's 357 and 246 where a peace of cake, cyl's 1 and 8
took some thinking but I got them done.

Cyl's 357-246 where done in the mill.

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Cyl #8 took some thinking, what I ended up doing was putting the check valve and nozzle in a 1/8 brass pipe plug and then drill and tap the rear mail for 1/8 pipe
and screwing the assembly in.


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Pressing in the check valve.

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Pressing in the nozzle.

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Cyl #8 squirter assembly is done!

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First I needed a drill exstension.
I started by drilling a peace of rod in the lathe and putting the drill bit in the rod and crimping it with a set of bolt cutters!

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After drilling into the oil galley with the small bit I
used a extra long bit to take the hole up to the size needed to tap it for 1/8 pipe.

No pic's of the bigger drilling operation.

Next I used a tap socket and a extension to tap the hole.


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Here is the Cyl # 8 Squirter installed,

NOTE: counter weight to nozzle clearance needs checking on cyl's 1 and 8

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Now we tackle cyl# 1.
Again I need a drill extension but it needs to run truer
than my first one, it will be drilling the hole that the nozzle presses into.

This time I need to get as close to the cylinder wall
as possible so I grind a steep angle on the rod stock
and drill the rod one size smaller and put my bit in
the lathe tail stock backwards and press in the drill bit.

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Now time to prep the block for cyl # 1.
At the bottom of cyl#1 there's a tiny ledge,
It needs to be to be prepped.

I do this with a cut off wheel.



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After a little math we have an angle that should exit
in the center if the front main saddle, it's time to drill!

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Now I put the block back on the mill and drill the hole
for the check valve.
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The hard work is done time to install the check valves
and nozzles and drill the bearings.

I use a Sharpie to draw a line across the main saddles
thought the check valve holes to mark my bearings.

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Check valves are installed.

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To install the nozzles I drilled a 2 peaces of rod stock
slightly larger than the nozzles.

One I use to drive in the nozzles and roughly aim them,
And the shorter peace of stock is to fine tune the stream
of oil.

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Installing the nozzles this way lets me control exactly how much of the nozzle is sticking out and how much gets pressed in the block.



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I use the long install tool to roughly aim the nozzles.

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After there roughly aimed I fine tune them.
I set them up where the oil would start on
one side and sweep to the other side as the
piston moved up and down the bore.


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The piston to nozzle clearance is about ¼ inch at BDC.

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Hope this helps you guys looking to do this.

 

nice post,
is basicly the same way we do the boat engines

 

Wow, thanks for sharing that is very cool. So for cyl's 1/8 the 1/8" pipe fitting houses the nozzle at one end and the check valve in the other correct? In the remaining 6 the check valve screws into the block after you've gotten the tubing in place and aimed? When you say you aim the tubing are you just slightly bending the piece that protrudes into the bore?

 

Yes, on #8 the fitting houses the check valve and the tubing.

Yes, I bend the tubing to aim it.

 

Do you use something prior to drilling the hole? It seems the bit would deflect when you try to start drilling at an angle like that. Do you run a high volume pump to compensate for the additional flow requirements when you add the squirters? Thanks again for the detailed pictures and comments.

 

Witch hole are you referring to?

This motor is getting a dry sump setup
but a 'special' pump is not required for a setup
of this type.

That's the reason for the check valves.

They won't let any oil flow past them under
29 psi and then it's a very small drip.

At about 35 psi the oil is starting to move fairly well
and at about 40 it coming on strong.

Most stock oil pumps bypass more oil than these squirters would ever flow to start with.

 

The hole you drill at an angle from the main bearing bore over into the cylinder wall. It seems that drilling at an angle would make the bit deflect when you try to start it, I was wondering if you used an end mill or something so that the bit would have a flat surface so that it would start easily and not deflect.

 

No nothing special, you have to be good with you tools and patient.

 

I'm sorry, I remember what I did to start the drill bit.

I have some punches that have a hex shank,
I put one in a socket and used a extension and
made a punch reaching through the top of the cyl.