Thats a BIG check valve

 

JGSturbo, I did not want it to be a restriction in the discharge direction. It is smaller than it sounds. I received some over the phone things to try by adding some controls into the vacuum control line of the Bov. When I check these things out this spring, I will write them up. I have a ton of screw ball ideas I am working on for my new 632 cu in build (goofey crank trigger timing, Waste Gate in the intake tract to control boost with wheel speed, alt & timing runing off the flex plate, how to filter the turbos return oil to 10 micron without a pump, carb or injection, fuel system design for street 99.9% / dyno .1% and more?). Thanks, Dave two.

 

I really don't think this is necessary at all. But if you want to do it... The 1g DSM BOV's leak alot of air when not in boost. They are routed back into the intake as you are thinking of plumbing your check valve. You could just use one of these as your BOV and plumb it back into the inlet and it will bypass air from the turbo inlet into the BOV and into the carb at idle and cruise. Maybe mitsubishi designed their bov's this way to supply more fresh air at idle/cruise. I never understood why they weren't closed at idle/cruise myself. You could also put a breather filter onit and not worry about plumbing linesback to the turbo inlet.

They are cheap and easily found used online for $20-30. Once modified (see last link) these bov's have held over 30psi and ar eon all 3 of my cars.

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http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html

I actually use a check valve to stop my bov from "leaking" at idle/cruise...

 

Big enough for 4 cylinders, not quite big enough for a large v8.... would need 2 at least.

 

I'd agree to fully function as a BOV. (If your one to believe in damage from not having one.) But for his purposes it would let in pleanty of air for idle and cruise. That being said have you seen the 1g units in person? They have a pretty large release valve. I'll measure my spare if I get a sec. Comparible to most of the smaller aftermarket units. Nothing like the "race" units you huge turbo folk run though.

In my experiance the PVC works well for a short time. Underhood and charge piping temps usually warp it in time.

 

Didnt read any replies so if this has already been said, im sorry.
Your spring wasnt stiff enough, if it had the correct spring in there it should take full vaccum plus 1 psi of air pressure in the coldside to open the bov.
Put the right spring in there and your good to go.

 

B&G I like that answer. I will order the spring kit and try it. Thanks, Dave two

 

http://www.jgsturbo.com/jgsbovinst.pdf