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Cant get any adjustment out of my blow thru

Discussion in 'General Carb Tech' started by 86turboGT, Jul 18, 2010.

  1. 86turboGT

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2009
    ill get the timing set as soon as i get back out there to work on it...might be a few days before any updates. Thanks for everything guys

    this is where i started today and then took it down to about .020"

    [​IMG]#ad
     
  2. conbread

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2006
    get that dist locked out, set the timming around 32-34 degrees set the btm to pull atleast 1.5 per pound, let the car warm up and then let us know how it does..
     
  3. 86turboGT

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2009
    im running a 1/2 mix of 93 and 116!
     
  4. 86turboGT

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2009
    will do! might be a few days.
     
  5. conbread

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2006
    then you will be safe at 34 degrees, and pulling 1 degree per pound on 10psi..If you end up running just pump gas then mabey pull 1.5 degrees..Also read the plugs, and check for any speckles..
     
  6. conbread

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2006
    also after you get it running, hold timming light on the ballancer and have someone rev the car and make sure it is pulling out the timming..
     
  7. 86turboGT

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2009
    i assume the inifo that i received from a post a long time ago i correct! is this the correct way to lock out my msd pro billet?

    If it's an MSD distributor, you have to take the inner shaft out of the distributor and spin it 180*. Do it like this - knock the pin out of the collar that is just below the distributor body. Take the cap adaptor off (the part the cap snaps on to, held on by to allen head bolts under the cap). Remove the rotor. Remove the springs, and the weights. Under the part where the weigths were, there's a 11/32 nut - take it off. Now, the inner shaft should come out by gently prying it out with a flatblade screwdriver. discard the bushing, (it will fall out at this point). turn the shaft 180* and put the threaded rod that the 11/32 nut came off of in the small hole opposite of where the bushing was at... (this is the "locking" part). Reverse the disassembly steps.. and you are done.
     
  8. 86turboGT

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2009
    i havent reved the motor over 3500 yet but i havent seen any boost to make it pull the timing?
     
  9. conbread

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2006
    yes that is how you lock the dist out.. or you can take the springs and bushings out and turn it inline and put a small weld to hold it in place..

    That is how we checked to make sure the btm was working, but it was on a blower car and it would make around 4-5psi (at about 3500)enough to see the ballancer come down, and make sure it would pull the timing out..
     
  10. brianj5600

    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2003
    I don't think you need to lock the timing, but you can limit advance to around 15* and end up with 20 initial and 35 total. Then pull timing with the BTM. I have never messed with an MSD distributer, but they seem easy to make mech adv adjustments. How much mechanical advance is in it now?
     
  11. 86turboGT

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2009
    I'd rather not lock it. Its been a while since I have messed with the dizzy and I will have to do some reading on it. As far as I can tell with the timing light it is totally advanced at 3000 rpm (the dizzy has the lightest springs in it) which is in the neighborhood of where I think the Turbo should start spooling.
     
  12. brianj5600

    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2003
    I was asking how many degrees different at idle vs 3000?
     
  13. conbread

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2006
    you can leave it like it is. but you have to find out how much the timming is picking up so you know how much to pull out with the BTM..
     
  14. 86turboGT

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2009
    i understand...i just dont know at the moment.
     
  15. 86turboGT

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2009
    ok...a update!

    Bumped the timing up to 35(still forgot to look at the initial) - it sounded more crisp got it to idle around 900 but anything below that it would cut off and still no adjustment with the idle mix. screws.

    I was determined that there was something wrong with the carb.....i took the baseplate off and looked at it. I had another old 650 laying around so i pulled the baseplate off it and noticed that the gasket between the main body and the baseplate where different. got to looking closer and the one on the 750BT was blocking some holes. I switched the gaskets and threw it back on the car.

    BINGO :chacha: runs like a dream!!!!!!!!! idles around 700 and i can adjust the idle mix. screws.

    thanks for everything guys. when i get to do a little more tuning on the car i will let you know what i decide to do with the timing!
     
  16. brianj5600

    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2003
    Good to hear you are on the right track! It sounds like we had you at everything but that.
     
  17. 86turboGT

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2009
    Thx anyways. I did learn a few things in the process. I'm just glad I saw that when I had it apart!
     
  18. dug

    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2003
    I'm about to .pdf this thread and save it in my personal archives. 86turboGT can you just have a few more problems so I can learn some more? :D
     
  19. 86turboGT

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2009
    lol...im sure i will have more....(right now i need to learn how to keep the heat away from my plug wire...i have 6" boots on them but they all keep cracking....!)
     
  20. 86turboGT

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2009
    ok...got the afr gauge figured out....14.3 at idle. 10.6 at cruise and 11.7-12.4 wot. @6psi. with 82's and 92's in the carb.
     
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