Another quick note, double check input shaft length against the bell housing dimension before install. If it's not correct, it wipes out the thrust on the motor really quick. I ahhh, had a friend do that once...

 

Yeah I had a 7-1/4" from the back of the pilot to the back of the bell. I have the shaft but I havent installed it yet. I am going offshore fishing in the morning so probly be sunday before I get around to it.

 

This afternoon I got my frame notched and trimmed my K for clearance. I just notched the frame and welded in some filler plate and shot some anti rust primer over the bare spots. This should give me the clearance I want and later allow me to switch to a 5.4L if I want.

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Hopefully I can get the K member and engine back in the car in the next few hours. I got cooking duty on the grill for tonight.

 

Looking good man!This is still my favorite build!

 

Thanks man, I got the K back in and all the front A-arms, rack, and bolts in and snugged up. I will drop the engine in tomorrow.

Im going with the same krinkle black finish on my intake. I think Im going to use a "cobra jet" styling with paint body on the car. Can anyone think of a nice template to tape into the intake before I paint it?

 

Find something on Google Images..Photoshop it, blow it u[, cut it, paint it!

 

Your build's looking good. Need to start posting my build now that I'm at a similar spot. Here's a pic of what my intake looks like.

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Nice! Looks like my mach 1 intake but on roids!

 

Ok I started making some progress. I got the engine in, I got the HCI intake on (twice), the new alt is on, the coolant tube is in. I am not finished with the intake yet since I was missing 2 screws. I will get them wed. and finish it up. Tomorrow night I will put the fuel rails and injectors in and start hooking up the wiring harness and running the new fuel lines. I still need to demo the stock ones out. Im hoping to be cranking on this thing in the coming weeks.

First off as some experts may notice I put the lower intake on backwards. I pulled it and turned it around but didnt re-take pics. It will be in new pics later. Also the silver looked gayish so I re-painted the intake krinkle black just like my oil pan.

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Also Im not sure what year this cross-0ver tube came from but the sensors were not the right ones. I simply switched out my GT sensors wich should allow my gt harness to just plug in.


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Sorry about the dim pics Im working in the back yard with a single drop light.

 

Looking good man!What all did you end up getting for the fuel system?

 

Summit A/N fittings and filters, Summit quick lock hose, Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump and Aeromotive reg. I will scan in my fuel set up ticket since I ordered it all at once and try to get up some good pictures of the install. I got 2 hours to work on it and then I gotta go work tonight wich is not the norm but its all good.

 

Ok Ill get into the fuel system now and try not to skip around. I will edit this with a pdf of my summit order.

First thing I did was start some of the assembly of a few small items. The Y block and fuel rails. I sorted out all my fittings and opened my injectors. I am using the new 80lb. HI injectors like the cobra jet uses. I searched around a bit and found a set that had the older style plug like my 97 has so I wont need any adapters.

Total Cost on the fuel system:
Fittings, Pump, Filters, Lines, tank pick up, rails and regulator=a bit over $1100.00
Injectors=$378.00

I started by installing a few fittings on the rails and Y block.
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Then I got out the injectors and lubed the orings with a little petro you can see the older style plug in the photos.
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Next I poped the injectors in the rails and installed them onto the intake. I liked these rails as they had hold down tabs to keep everything in place although they are fairly pricey.
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Once I had my selected fittings installed I went ahead and finished bolting up the intake.
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Looking great man, you've got to be getting a bit giddy at this point.

 

Here is a PDF of my summit order. If anyone want to copy this fuel set-up they can do so with these part numbers. I will save some time rather than planning it all out and figuring out what all is needed. There may be better systems out there but this one should work and after I started pricing fittings and lines I just bit the bullet and priced it. Its hard not to spend more than 1000.00 on a good fuel system. Even if I had choosen to go with "cheaper" walbro twin pumps the savings was not much if any by the time you get the plumbing to install them. I ran many ideas through my head and this seemed to be my best option for price vs. value. I could have maybe save 100.00 or more buying fittings elsewhere but I though the summit brand was reasonable enough. Maybe others with there fuel systems can chime in. The only things not on this order was my fuel tank pick up tubes and my fuel injetors.

This is my first fuel system build if that says anything about my knowlege on the matter my decisions have been based on info that I have read right here on turboforums.

 

I am. Shouldnt be long now. Im going to try and fire it up without my turbo set-up just to make sure the engine is all good and if it is then it will be on with the rest of the goods.

 

Today I pulled out all the stock fuel lines. To get them out I had to remove 3 8mm bolted clamps and drill out 2 or 3 riveted brackets. I got it all out without much hassle. After that I decided to get my FPR mounted up so I figured out were I wanted it and I made a bracket out of a peice of flat bar that bolts to the firewall. My goal with routing the lines was to keep them in more or less a stock routing pattern. Im not sure but my thinking is ford probly tried to keep them clear and away from heat and moving stuff for safety reasons so I am going to try and run them in the a similar way. I did not run any lines today because I am short 2 8an push on hose fittings. I could have run some but I didnt want to leave and loose ends because my dog already got one hose out of the box and chewed the end up as well as ripped open my fuel filters and chewed on them! ??? WTF would a dog want with a fuel filter when they have a whole garage with all kinds of other stuff to choose from? Anyways the filters were not hurt but they did get scratched up a little and slobbery. Oh well

Heres the stock fuel line set-up
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Heres my FPR bracket
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Test fit the location

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Last I painted it and drilled and bolted up the bracket and the FPR.
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I spent the better part of the day messing with wiring and some other stuff. Ill post all that later so I dont fudge into the fuel part of the build for those like me who arent really sure how some of this stuff goes together. I also have a quick sketch I made of the fuel layout. I will try and scan it.

 

Well whatever I will just post up my fuel stuff as it gets in. I knocked out the wiring harness. One thing I will point out is I kept reading everywhere on 4v swaps that you are supposed to reverse the polarity of the coils. On this older style you dont. I could not find any info on the matter in my searches but after I posted here the issue was made clear (I guess thats why I never found any info on swaping the polarity with the coil/wire set-up-because you dont have to). Also I am missing 2 A/N fittings for my fuel system and I will order them in the morning along with a few other odds and ends.

The wiring is done except loom, ties, and tape.
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I installed my new SPEC clutch. It was balanced by SPEC the same as my MMR clutch. They were very helpfull and sent me everything I needed marked and ready for install. The only reason I changed clutches was to hold more power and I made plans for the MMR clutch in my mach 1. I also installed my lakewood safety bell. Next the Lenco will go in and I can finish the trans tunnel.

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A couple of notes on the bell housing. Its nothing special it the standard tremec pattern that fits jerico, top loaders, and even this Lenco. Some locals have called BS on my putting in a lenco as it "needed a special bell and clutch set-up" wich is a major myth for some reason associated with them. The bell is part number LW-15230. A few things to note with it is that your stock bell housing bolts wont fit. You will need to buy allen head meteric bolts as the smaller head allows them to fit next to the bell without binding up on the side of it. I got them at a local bolt/hardware store. The bolts needed are M10-1.5X35 socket cap screw (allen head style) If you look at the picture of my bell you will see one on the lower left. They were $3.04 for 8 of them. Also you can use the stock clutch fork with this bellhousing however they do offer a heavy duty clutch fork from lakewood.

Torque specs

ARP fly wheel bolts- I went to 65ftlbs
Pressure plate allen head aftermarket bolts- I went to 25ftlbs

The flywheel is a hawkins racing billet steel model that I got off ebay. Its a heavier model that is made for drag racing. One thing I see is allot of people using aluminum flywheels for drag racing and my opinion is that is more suited for track racing where weight is the key and moving up in the rpm range to the power is better on track style racing when you are always on and off the throttle and in every gear. This heavier flywheel is made to increase the hit of the launch wich helps with bogging off the line and has enough mass behind it to really help get the car moving. Its a trade off I made in weight VS function simply because I have had good luck with a flywheel like this before on a street car that was geared for drag racing and it was best right off the line. Its really just a prefrence but to me this was what I felt the car needed to help it get off the line.