Can the O2 sensor be cleaned and reused?

 

Does it not work at all? Where did you install the sensor? It doesn't look like it's downstream of the turbine.

 

The sensor is right before the turbo, in the up pipe. My exhaust is only a elbow.
#ad

 

Does the sensor fail a free air calibration? Pre-turbine is supposed to cause problems due to the pressure. It could also be overheating. I've used a copper strip between the sensor and pipe to keep the temperature in check. I'm not familiar with the auto meter gauge .. does it provide error codes to help narrow down problems? If it fails a free air calibration replace it.

 

The only info in the directions is, the needle sweeps between 8-9 until the sensor is heated or if it looses signal from the sensor. The gauge uses stepper motors. So I just get a lot 8-9 continuous sweeps.
I would think moving it to my exhaust elbow would allow outside air contamination?

 

You can try it in the downpipe it should give a good reading under load but I'd expect bad behavior idle/cruising. Not sure on their wideband gauge but the fuel pressure gauge I used could output an analog signal for logging and it worked well for me. I logged using a msii.

 

No.

Is it a wideband oxygen sensor? Assuming it is, there are multiple ways they can fail and fuel fouling isn't usually one of them. Too much heat is common. Repeatedly starting a cold engine on a fully preheated sensor is another way. Having it between the engine and turbo not just risks overheating the sensor, the high exhaust pressure skews the wideband's reading.

 

Thanks, I’ve told the pressure and heat is not good. I will be moving it to the outlet pipe. The sensor is powered with 12v with the key on. The same as my other gauges. They don’t get power while cranking. Should I put it on a toggle switch?
How fast is that 72 Pinto?

 

You shouldn't need to. I was looking at the Autometer WBO2 instructions and their controller already addresses the hot sensor/cold engine problem. It waits until it detects more than 12.5v on the supply which typically only happens when the alternator is charging via running engine.

I have an Innovate LC-2 wired for power during start and run and it doesn't care if the engine is running. I suspect my current sensor has been damaged because of that(before I knew that it was a potential problem). It's also right behind the turbine which is a pretty hot place on a 2.3T.

It hasn't been to a track yet, but it's fast enough to be fun. 2.3Ts uncorked and non-intercooled like mine make about 170whp through a manual. I'll expect a bit more once I put a ported head, intake, cam, and IC on it.

 

Do you have a build thread on the pinto?

 

Yeah, but it's on fordpinto.com. Don't need an account to see the thread or photos though.

 

Nice build. Thanks for the link. It looks like a good community. I belong to a GM, H body forum. I’m getting my 77 Pontiac Sunbird back. I built it in 86 with a 3.8 Buick and 5 speed and a 4.10 posi. It turns out that I’m getting it back from the brother of the guy I sold it to around 1997. It sat outside and I’ve only seen pics of it. But, good news is, it runs and now has a 4.3 tbi in it. Maybe I’ll build a turbo 4.3. After I fix some rust.

 

Thanks. I've learned a lot from it, mainly that I wouldn't build an early Pinto again. Necessary parts are getting really hard to find and there are no bolt-on mods for them anymore. Support for the Lima 2.3 is also drying-up a lot. I would probably feel spoiled playing with air cooled VWs or GM products.

 

Well on the H-Body forum, I learned that new front rotors are no longer produced. I hope I won’t need them. There is a S10 spindle swap that people do. So that’s always an option.
In High School I had a Vega and my buddy had a Pinto. He did so many bolt on mods. Not engine, all exterior. It was fun to see what he did week by week. Then he got one of those early carb, turbo Mustangs. It never seemed all that fast. Good times.

 

Same with my car(front rotors and calipers NLA, balljoints too). '74-80 parts are shared with the Mustang II and a lot of it can still be found, but none of it fits a '71-73, at least not properly. I have 11" Granada rotors and Chevy metric calipers which that required seriously modifying some aftermarket caliper brackets for a '74+. At least I can still get those brake parts though(and the car stops pretty hard).

 

I’ve been driving the bug some more. I moved the O2 sensor to the outlet pipe. It took forever to on the gauge the first day. Either was warming up or losing connection. The second day it never read. I have to trace my wires and double check everything.
Still chasing some flat spots. Probably all idle to main jet transition.

 

I will be taking the bug to the track on Sunday.

 

I entered an 1/8 mile class, but got one 1/4 mile pass. 15.46 at 86 and a 9.67 in the 1/8th. Best 60’ 2.09. It’s spins a lot. Lost first round. Had fun and nothing broke.
#ad

 

Looks good,like the stance.