Plug and play easy install from a Holley 555-606n?
I got quotes for installs of 15 hours last time lol

 

I guess I do not understand the question.
The micro plug and play from efi source which can be found here https://www.efisource.com/wp/shop/microsquirt-for-1986-93-ford-5-0-mustang/ you unplug your ecu and Baro sensor, you plug in the micro adapter harness and the new map sensor that came in the kit, then run a vac line from map to the manifold. Plug in the laptop with a usb to serial adapter and begin tuning. Most turbo guys already have a wideband so in that case you should run the WB's output to the micro for real time logging and correction. But thats it. Last one i installed might have been 15 minutes, not 15 hours.

The DIY autotune PNP is similair but you run a vac line to the unit itslf which plugs into the factory harness.. Also 15 minutes of install. it offers alot of expansion when compared to the micro. 2 step, boost control, fan controls, ect

 

I was trying to get an estimate for labor for the Holley HP install. Taking the A9l out and replacing it with the Holley and getting s tune

 

Really depends on how its done and what all needs to be installed/modified.
You could hack together a layover harness and double side sticky tape the ecu under the dash pretty easily. Also much quicker.

But if you want to pull the factory ecu and wiring harness and start 100% fresh that is a big job.

A good example of some damn fine harness work and what it takes to really go for it. Start around post 26
https://www.theturboforums.com/threads/my-94-cobra-2-0-build-twin-turbo-zsr-sbf-ms3-ultimate.384954/


Just off the top of the head
pull ecu
disconnect the harness connectors for chassis to ecu harness
feed harness through to engine
disconnect all the engine connectors
remove rest of harness
fab mount for Holley ecu
build fuse/relay/switch/ whatever panel for ecu of use car chassis plugs that you have pinned out and integrate to the holley harness
feed harness to engine
hook up all the harness connectors for the entire engine
wire in whatever accessories you need and mount their associated hardware. Clutch switch, 2 step button, fan relays ect
attach the 234523412 adapter and add on harness bits it seems every aftermarket ecu requires for whatever ignition, coil, iac, temp senders, tps, boost solenoids, yadda yadda
Zip tie it all up and clean up/wrap the harness so it doesn't look like crap and it doesn't rub holes in itself.
Power it all up
get the software downloaded
spend an hour trying to get the ecu to talk to the laptop you are using
download a starter/ base tune file that gets the engine to pop off
find out you did something backwards or wrong
fix the bonehead mistake
finally get it to pop off and make sure its working properly
set your base timing
finally get it to idle
verify all your accessories work as intended. Or at least the ones that you can at idle
put a light gate spring in the waste gate if not running boost control or at least set any MBC to as low as possible
Rough in a fueling map, VE table, and a timing map that is hopefull too slow and too rich
Limp the car around and street tune it enough to know its actually ready to put on a dyno
Put it on a dyno
Set your steady state speed control up and then cell to cell the entire 12x12 or 16x16 or whatever x whatever ve table until the car starts to run too warm
let it cool down
pick up on the ve table where you left off and get as many new cells as you can until it gets hot again
Rinse and repeat until the ve table is as populated and accurate as the cooling system allows
Hopefully your using a dyno with good real-time torque output. if so then cell to cell all the light load and part throttle cells while moving timing around until best torque output for a given TPS is achieved. this ensures good drivabiltiy and good economy
Now you can make a few wot pulls at lowest boost.
Adjust your timing and VE table all that way through the run untill at low boost the tune is good
bump your boost to the next row value
rinse and repeat through the table until you get to the boost/power you were going for or something causes you to stop.
Now that all that is done and you have a good VE table you can get started on all the other tables for cold start, hot start, idle, decel, accell, fuel cuts, rev limits ect. ect. You need to do the VE table first as mostly everything else is just a modifier of it.

Now none of this above is particularly hard but it can take time. With good research and asking questions almost anyone can do it. You are more then capable in my opinion. Looking at the list above, I could easily see 15 hours to install and tune a Holley HP on a unknown car. A MS or a Micro requires mostly the same or similar tuning steps, but the initial cost is less then half and the install is nothing like a fresh stand alone install.
Also this list does not include dealing with any issues the car has mechanically or any time spent relating with you the customer what is going on or any other tasks required to keep his business running.


Good luck

 

Jesus man, how do you know all this stuff? I feel bad that you even had to type that. I wish I had friends like you.
If I’m capable enough, I was saving and going to try and order the Holley hp kit, lay everything out on the ground in the house and try to visualize where everything is going on the car(I believe the Holley kit has labeled tabs near each connector setup.

I may just have to save up even more. Problem is if I attempt this install and fail, the local guy who is willing to do the whole job at $50 an hour would not help with a partial install or go over the parts of this that are above my skill if I fail. I have wires and connections all over the place from previous owners and a wire job dedicated to hiding wires or looking professional is likely too far gone from this vehicle.