Also a trick for starting first time, if bowls are dry. Remove Boost Ref line from carb hat, pull a TOP FUELER, spray carb clean/brake clean in hat when cranking and off it goes!!!!! Don't have to remove hat, or spill fuel on engine. Plus it looks cool!!!!

The air pressure trick works, to push the air out of the line. Then it should gravity feed if the tank is high enough.

 

Do yall think this will be low enough too mount..My cell is gonna have too be made or bought somewhere that will fit up in the nose area..Right now,I don't even know where too look for 1 that would be at least 5-6 gal and be easy too mount..

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I think u have the wrong pulley on the pump ..it looks to BIG...I run a 16 crank and 24 pump pulleys..check out triange engineering for fuel cells

 

Thats what C&S sent me......

If this is the site your referring too...http://www.carshopinc.com/index.php/cPath/33?osCsid=e659a224dc082694855e2600dbd5473d

It doesn't pull up anything on Fuel Cells..

Does any one make a 6-7 gal direct bolt in too fit in the nose area in the front...Preferribly Plastic since Alky will be used...

 

How many teeth are on the crank and on the fuel pump. There is really no right or wrong answer, your just looking for a ratio. If you have 24 and 16 that is a .6 ratio, just over half engine speed. If you have a 32 crank pulley and a 48 fuel pump pulley you still have a .6 ratio. See what I am getting at. So the pulley does not matter as long as you get the desired ratio.

So what are the pulley sizes.

 

16 c/32pump...also have an 18 crank...

 

here is my pulley on my pump looks like
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i think u would need to use 18 crank and 32 pump.. alittle bit faster than 50%

 

Mine looks Identical excerpt the number of ribs...And of course my Carb....

thanks

 

Paul,

Did you change over to a C&S carb?

-Brian

 

NO NO thats just a pic of a belt drive i found on this website...NO i RUN CSU

 

Paul,

Just caught this thread, sorry I didn't see it sooner. Looks like a very nice, clean installation.

I believe I read where you said that the pump was mounted as low or lower than the cell.

On the priming, I presume you're cracking the line at the pump inlet to see if it drains fuel, and it doesn't. This is not necessarily uncommon, as the feed line will rarely run down from the tank and then stay low all the way to the pump. In fact, it usually has to run higher over the rear axle, and then back down.

Depending on how high the tank top is relative to the highest elevation of the line as it routes forward, you may need to either fill the tank completely, or if the line approaches the tank top in height, pressurize the tank slightly.

When you do this, you will have to remove the return line from the tank and then cap the return bulkhead. Crack the fitting at the pump inlet and install a pan underneath. Then, using compressed air and an air pressure regulator set for no more than 5 psi, carefully pressurize the tank until fuel is pushed over the highest spot in the fuel line. From there, it will gravity feed down to the pump. Once you have a head of fuel at the pump inlet, tighten the line and put the fuel back into the tank. Remember to reconnect the return line! From here you can fill the bowls through the vents and start the engine. The pump will fill the lines to the regulator and then the bowls in a second or two and you're good to go from there. The pump feed line will stay primed from then on, untill you drain it and the tank.

When playing with fuel and your fuel system, be certain the garage or shop is completely ventilated (door and window for cross draft open) and there is NO source of ignition, PLEASE. We work around this stuff all the time and take it for granted so easily... my brother's family on his wife' side just had a really crazy, stupid accident in Omaha. Working on a car, cold outside, they drug the fuel tank into the basement and removed the pump, setting it next to the hot water heater. The burner lit, igniting the fume filled basement, literally blowing the house to bits, killing one, critically injuring another. Shit like this happens when we're caught up and not paying attention, so just be careful for my sake if nothing else!!

Call me at work, or PM me if you need any help and have a fun, safe weekend!

 

Great info once again Brett! Thanks.

 

I worked with a guy many years ago who accidentally killed himself changing a fuel pump in the driveway of his house.

The guy was adding an electric fuel pump after the mechanical pump gave him trouble. He by-passed the mechanical fuel pump, had the electric fuel pump mounted, and was connecting the fuel lines and the electric wires when it got dark. He went inside and went to sleep.

The next morning he hooked up the lines and was hooking up the power to test the pump when a spark ignited the fuel leaked in the sewer drain in the concrete under his car. The Fire Marshal said that the gas tank drained enough fuel from the leaking lines to create a "Barbeque" in the drain. All it needed was a spark and when he hooked up the power to the pump he created that spark. 85% burns over his body which later killed him. He lived long enough in the hospital to tell the story to his family and friends. The fire in the drain traveled to the house drain system and set the house on fire. Fortunately neighbors saw the house burning and investigated/ called the Fire Department. The Fire Department found the guy under the car.

I am extremely careful around any fuel system projects.

Tom V.

 

Amen to that Tom

I would also like to mention combustible rags. NEVER toss them in a tight bundle in a bucket or such, they can and WILL generate enough heat to combust ON THEIR OWN..... and burn down the area. (seen it a few times in shops and painting trailers)

Drape your rags over something and let them air dry. They also make specific fire rated containers obviously

 

thanx brett for the great advice...I did raise the fuel cell 4 more inches last week and primed the pump like u mentioned and never looked back...It has been flawless since...everything seems to work normal and quiet except the engine lol

 

Paul, great to hear all is well and you're up and running. Congratulations and keep us posted on how everything works out!

Great advice on fuel soaked rags, I had no idea they were capable of spontaneous combustion!!

That's an incredibly sad story about the fuel leaking into the drain Tom.

I think one of the most important things to keep in mind with regard to fuel handling safety is that fuel vapors are what ignite. It's obvious that a puddle or container of fuel will have a vapor layer above it. What isn't so obvious is that fuel vapors, like most gases, are invisible, heavier than air and cam migrate along the shop or garage floor into areas that can contain a source of combustion. Anyone with a shop that has a hot water heater in the area should enclosed in a room with combustion air vented through an outside wall, or or high, at the cieling. It sould also be mounted on a stand at least 16" tall (they make steel tables for this purpose). Of course heaters should always be suspended near the ceiling.

 

Brett thanks for the good words on safety.
Sorry about your brother....

TomV Sorry about your friend...

 

So what I am getting from reading this is that the sump of the cell should be higher than the inlet of the pump. But a little bit if an uphill run to get over the axle or right out of the tank so I can run it down inside the frame rail should be fine once its primmed? I think Ill be fine with my truck as with a truck the frame rails raise a bit after the cab so that should give me enough height to keep the tank high enough.

Also thanks for the safety advise guys its always needed.