Very cool, thanks for the info!

I am expecting about 350 HP and 400 ft of TQ at the wheels NA, 550 hp and 500 ft ot TQ under boost, and a little extra with the nitrous. Should be a fun ride!

What I am doing and is adding a bung in every header primary. I will then switch an EGT probe into each one of them for a trip down the track, once I know the leanest cylinder I will leave it in that bung. If the engine starts to run strange I can move the EGT around to help trouble shoot. For the AFR I am running one on each side where all 4 primaries come together. All the data from both the EGT and AFRs is data logged to a megasquirt computer allong with the RPM, boost level, etc. This way I can bassically re-play my quarter mile runs and examine the numbers.

Even when I am running a carb, I will use the computer to datalog my runs. To help further I am running a camera and mic so I can have a visual to go allong with the data.

 

GOOD to assist good 60" times and spool turbo..All depends on traction ...
It doesn't have to used the whole strip..

 

Yeah, I will try racing without the nitrous and see how it works first... If I do not have to run the nitrous great!

 

Bump to the top.... I am getting a block girdle made to keep the bottom end happy. Things are not moving as quickly as I wanted however they are moving! It takes a lot of time and $ to do a turbo car right!

 

I've always been a Nitrous guy.... that being said, its destructive and expensive when it does damage. Getting the turbo tune on its on is going to be kind of a headache enough as it is. These guys here are being straight forward with you. Nitrous and turbo's aren't a new thing but a high shot and boost is just stupid high VE in the chambers and the chances of you keeping gaskets in it aren't good at all. The reason's mainly used for Nitrous and boost was to get a turbo that was too big for a motor spooled and ready to launch off the line and to help bring IAT's down... other than that its not generally used for power adder and cut pretty much right away. But that was sort of old tech when Turbo's weren't too efficent and Meth injection wasn't really a known science then and ethonal wasn't very easy to tune in older carbs/rides. Imports get away with using a decent amount because of the design of their motor like the newer mod motors. I think these guys are giving you VERY sound advice and trying to help you out before your motor is gone before you can even enjoy it. Your not going to need to spool those turbo's really they are going to be responsive to that motor. If your itching to use spray with it, like suggested 50shot AT MOST will be plenty and you won't have to go into retarding or huge fuel requirements to run it if you stay below 100hp shot.
You need to remember that PSI raises VE inside of a motor turning it into a high compression atmosphere where you want to add more VE by nitrous and fuel making it close to being unobtainable to a stock block/heads and conponents if there are any in there. Its tried and true brotha you aren't on the path of any new science we are speaking from experience.. lol You want to garnade your ride thats totally on you, but everyone here has told you its a BAD IDEA, and that if you want to try it anyway we gave you some pointers I suggest you listen to them VERY CAREFULLY. And a main girdle does nothing but hold the broken pieces of the block together and sometimes causes the fault line because there is no room to flex. If you want nitrous for the wow factor by all means roll with it, but just watch your tune very very carefully and make sure its running correct first before you throw a shot in the mix. So if there is bugs to be worked out just one less thing you have to check off the list, makes life easier. Personally me I like the idea of it, but I know the reality of it as well.. lol Good luck either way, keep us posted on what happens and which way you go.

 

Thanks for the input. I will not be using nitrous. As you said the turbos are properly sized and I will have not problem getting boost at low RPM.

I have decided to focus more on the launch technique to get off the line quickly... I am using a 3 step RPM limiter, and leaving off the trans brake. I am using a HR hardparts rear sway bar to keep the car from rolling over on launch. I am pretty sure I should be able to leave the line at about 3200 RPM off the trans brake with some boost. I am pretty sure on launch my 2700 rated stall converter will flash up to about 3500 RPM due to the extra torque from the engine. Should make a good 10 second street car if it works out... Worst case I have a 11 second street car.