Yeah. I had to take a step back and look at a few things. For the love of everything Holy, please get that thing ready for the Spring. I have a date with a dyno near you.

Heading back to the track tomorrow. Gonna turn up the wick a little bit and see how it does.

 

good luck at the track

 

Got rained out. If Beech Bend in Bowling Green, KY is open next Saturday, I'll probably run up there. It's a 1320'.

 

Mother Nature must hate me right now. Both local tracks were closed Friday, again , and I could not make the trip to Beech Bend on Saturday. So I said screw it and installed my Baseline Suspension relocated uppers I bought from 92GreenGT. The install was cake. Now all I need to do is set the pinion angle. I'll post some pics of the install when I get home this evening.

 

pics def... and could you give some details on how you are going to set your pinion angle? thx. i feel ya on the banging your head against the wall.. i finally got my car together after two years, been to the track twice and could not get a clean pass off.."technical difficulties" and now the seasons over due to snow. guess i'll have to wait til spring..lol

 

Absolutely! I'd be happy to help once I figure it out myself. My plans as of right now are to use the magnetic angle finder I have and place it on the harmonic balancer for the motor measurement and the pinion flange for the rear end measurement. I'll through a little hocus pocus (math) in the mix and hopefully come out to 1.5* pinion angle. I'm also gonna take a look at my lowers to see what kind of adjustment needs to be made there. I think they are darn near parallel to the ground as they sit. I'm sure once I get into it, I'll have a few questions myself.

 

Just read your build man, that car gets faster every time out! I hope you get out again, i would like to see some great times from it!

Anthony

 

Thanks Anthony! I feel the same way. I know there is a lot more in this combo. I need seat time most of all, but there are other things with the car that I need to get ironed out.

All of the times to date were with a wastegate that had zero spring preload so it was cracking below 3psi. Now that I have wastegate preload issue figured out, the boost should come in earlier in the run and maintain throughout.

Another thing I'm trying to figure out is the launch control. I am familiar with the functionality, but I can't get this set up to build more than 1.5 psi while staging using footbrake. My settings are as follows:
Launch retard above: 2300 RPM
Retard to: 15*
Enable Launch when TPS above: 15%
Launch hard limit: 2500 RPM
Cut X Sparks: 5
from Y events: 7

In neutral, I know a few folks that can build 4-6psi. I can't build more than 1psi. A couple guys have told me that it could be my gears causing too much multiplication and won't let me stall at a higher PRM. I'm running a PTC 3500. Any more than 2500 RPM and I'm pushing through the brakes.

Do these settings for the launch control look correct? Is this as good as I'm going to get until I change gears or somehow find a way to stall higher? I'm going to throw this over in the EFI section to see what kind of feedback I can get there.

 

If I read that right you are retarding the timing to 15* on the 2 step. You need to add timing on the 2 step and some guys like to have a leaner a/f ratio. You need to have the motor make enough power to load the converter and build boost. I would try, whatever psi you start to pull timing from under boost, leave that timing in the computer on the 2 step rpm. Or if you want, add timing little by little on the 2 step and see what the results are. Also mess with your a/f to see what the car likes and runs cleanest to load the motor. If the wastegate keeps cracking, see if there are gate pressure settings that you can control to open the gate at a later psi. Hope this helps!

Anthony

 

Thanks Anthony! That does help. Currently, I'm running 33* until I reach positive manifold pressure. At 1-7psi I'm pulling timing down to 22*. I'm still working timing back into this area. I'll bump the timing in the Launch Control to meet this area and test to see how it responds (if a track will stay open ). I'll be surprised if the brakes will hold it.

As for fuel, I believe I'll have to engage table switching with the launch control in order to fine tune the fuel while on the 2-step. I'm not sure on this one.

I fixed the gate issue and I'm using an electronic boost controller. I'll have to make changes to it as I get more familiar with the car/combo.

Thanks again for the input.

 

Yes, you are pulling 11* as soon as it hits 1psi killing the power of the car. Since you can only footbrake to 2500 you aren't going to be able to create a ton of boost.

Do you have e85 available to you?

Anthony

 

Yeah, it's available here and I've thought about making the switch, but since I drive it on the street a lot and 6mpg doesn't sound too appealing. That doesn't give me very much mileage per tank and I'm not certain where all the e85 stations are. I've thought about creating an emergency tune just in case I get somewhere that doesn't have it. There's another consideration too... cash for a new fuel pump and 160# injectors.

 

Yes, the mileage sucks on e85. You won't need 160's at your power level, I'm still on 120's. If you ever do make the switch, you will love it.

Anthony

 

When he eventually makes the power level he wants though, the 83's won't be enough on e85. And I don't think he has the pump for it either. But you're right, it's far superior. Wish I had more than one station in my area (20 miles away).

 

I've been considering it for a while. I am looking at 160's because the 120's run about the same price. I know the dual Walbros that I'm running now aren't going to cut it. I thought about a Magnafuel 750 but damn those things are loud. My neighbor has one on his 1700 ft/lb Cummins. I really want to get the car worked out as it sits. I might make the move next Fall or Winter.

Rob - We need to set up some dyno time for the Spring.

 

Measured to find my pinion angle. My balancer shows the crank tilted back by 2* (balancer up/flywheel down). My pinion shows the same angle at 2* as well. Now where do I go from here?

EDIT: So after more research, it sounds like I have 0* pinion angle. The trans output shaft is point down making it -2*. The pinion is point upward making it +2*. -2 + (+2)=0

I've got solid bushing lowers and poly bushings on the uppers, frame side. Look like I need to point the pinion down 2* to give me -2* pinion angle.

Thoughts?

 

There seems to be a couple ways to set pinion angle. I think that what you are doing is the better way. If you are at 0 degrees now, drop the rear axle down two more degrees to get your -2 degrees. I have also seen where people just measure from the driveshaft and pinion yoke.

Jess

 

Thanks for the feedback. I'll drop the pinion the 2*.

 

As I said in my text reply this morning, You don't add the angles ; you subtract the output shaft angle from the pinion yoke angle. Therefore, if your output shaft is -2 and your pinion yoke is +2, then your current pinion angle is 2 - (-2) = 4*. You'll have to turn the yoke down 6* to get -2 (-4 - (-2) = -2)

 

Thanks Rob. That seems right on a few sites and opposite of others. Ended up taking it down 1.5*. I'll take now another 2.

Test and tune didn't go well. Still breaking up above 4400-4600rpm. Found a. Melted plug wire and replaced it but it didn't improve much. I'm going to redo my ignition this winter. Hopefully it'll hope. I actually got video of this time but you can't tell anything from it.