You're probably loosing boost thru those leaks but its probably very minute. Just because its dropping 4psi in a static system with no flow doesn't mean its the reason your loosing any significant boost when your flowing 40-50 lb/min of air. Those leaks show big pressure drops when there is little flow. BTW, I don't know if there is a factory style TPS on a mustang that doesn't have at least a slight leak. Not to mention your using 2 different gauges. I would be weary of emphasizing too much on those leaks. How are you doing the leak check? Are there intake and exhaust valves open? Is the TB open? There are allot more ways to lose pressure that just plain boost leaks.

 

I'm aware. However, new o-rings on the injectors showed a significant increase in the amount of pressure the system would retain. Once I got those changes I also found several leaks in the cold side that I didn't hear before. Air's taking the path of least resistance obviously. I'm sure its inevitable that some part of the valvetrain open. I'm going to reweld the joints that I marked last night and see how that goes.

I increased the timing significantly from 80-100kPa and the car is night and day different. increased the timing in the boost areas by 4* to see how its going to like it. I'm going to add the timing incrementally. Headed back to the track tonight. I curious to see how its going to perform.

 

Good read. Looking forward to reading your results tonight.

 

Thank you sir! There's no telling how many times I've read through your build. That is an absolutely beautiful car you have there.

Just got back home with another successful trip. I only got to make 4 passes and the last was aborted due 100% to driver error. 2step on the footbrake doesn't work if you don't put your foot on the brake... rolled the lights.

I'll edit this later because I'm recalling from memory since I can't find the first two slips

First pass of the night I added 4* = 18* under boost and upped my 80-100kPa to 33-30* respectively
7.62 @ 88.xx

Second pass I didn't add anything just changed the VE table per data log and VE Analyzer
7.55 @ 89.xx

Third pass I added 4* = 22* under boost
1.6269 = 60'
4.7599 = 330'
7.4516 = 660'
mph = 91.52

Almost certain I heard detonation as soon as third engaged, but that's the only time I heard it. I'm still banging off the rev limiter in first and shifting a little too early from second to third. I'm getting better though.

 

Awesome man! thats solid 11's at what 5 psi?

 

Thanks. The datalog is showing 3.5 - 4psi. I need to figure that out this weekend.

Another thing I noticed is I was spinning out of the hole on the last two runs. Need to work on that as well.

 

Brian (brianj5600) came over on Saturday and inspected the hoopty. We both agreed the remaining pinhole sized leaks I have left in the cold side wouldn't stop me from building more boost. So I went back to the MegaSquirt and the EBC solenoid. I found it wasn't energizing so I checked the wiring diagram. Matt from DIYAUTOTUNE responded to my EBC setup thread on another forum and after going over his response and my current set up it hit me... MS2 supplies the ground, not 12v. I had one lead going to the MS box and the other to chassis ground. Double grounding the EBC. I moved the chassis ground lead to switched 12v and it worked!

I had to change the polarity to "inverted", but now the car is running around on 8-9psi. BIG difference from the 3-4psi I was running.

I tested the 2-step and I can get it to build 1psi at 2000rpm. I am more than likely headed back to the track Friday night to see what it will do.

 

Re: 93 Convertible, 351w, 80mm, AOD/4R - Lots of Pics

I may have missed it but what brand of fuel line are you using.

 

I'm using -10an Aeroquip pushlock for the main feed to the engine bay. I'm using Summit brand for the return and plumbing in the engine bay. The blue lines in the pic are the Summit brand pushlock -8an. So far, I've have a decent luck with the Summit brand stuff. In my experience, the Summit brand because firm and "can" begin to leak at the fittings. I've used hose clamps to stop that from continuing.

 

Heading out tonight. Gonna turn the boost up to 10psi and tune from there.

 

Sooooooo?

 

Had another good outing. Still banging off the rev limiter in 1st. I'm running 3.73s with a 2.84 first gear in the AOD. As soon as I launch I need to grab 2nd. That fact hasn't reached my arm yet. Despite that fact, my first run of the night was a 7.21 @ 98mph. The kicker of it all are my 60' times on my relatively stock suspension. Here are my last few runs...

60' - 1.5321
330' - 4.5371
660' - 7.0451
MPH - 99.33

60' - 1.5460
330' - 4.4800
660' - 6.9729
MPH - 100.02

60' - 1.5262
330' - 4.4723
660' - 6.9689
MPH - 100.03

I'm seeing 164-169kPa on the datalogs and spiking at 171kPa on the 2nd/3rd shift. Its carrying 9psi for most of 2nd and all of 3rd. 1st is so quick it only has time to continue building boost from that generated by the 2-step.

All in all, I'm pretty satisfied with the car so far, its the loose nut behind the wheel I need to fix.

 

Awesome, picked up almost a full second and 15mph from your last time out if I remember correctly.

 

I actually ran two weekends back to back prior to yesterday. Last time was a 7.45, but to your point, I've picked up a full second and the 15mph since my first outing. Already have plans to go next weekend.

 

I would like some feedback on my spark table. After a few alterations to it, here's where I'm at. The biggest change I've made from last week is adding another 4* in the 125kPa row.

#ad


Fire away. Let me know what you think.

 

I was going over my logs last night and noticed the MAP curve wasn't very consistent, in fact, I was losing boost toward the end of the run. Currently, I've got the Boost Controller set to Open Loop tuning to a specific Boost Duty Percentage. This is my first time messing with any kind of electronic boost controller. I've done a lot of research here and on the Megasquirt sites so I've got a decent grasp on the theory. My question is more geared toward interpreting what the log is showing.

Looking at the log, It appears that boost levels off just before I shift into 3rd. On the 2nd to 3rd shift, the boost starts to climb again. I believe that's the result of the load from the 3rd gear and the Boost Duty dropping with the rpm drop. I have it set that way in Boost Duty Table below. I need to change that. My biggest concern is the drop in boost at the end of the run. What would cause this? First thing I think of is a boost leak but I've cured them with the exception of a few pin holes in the welds.

Boost Duty Table
#ad


Log of the [email protected] run.
#ad

 

I have a small update. I took the back out to the track again a couple weeks ago. It ran like absolute crap. It was breaking it in second and third gears. Best pass I could muster was a 7.32 @ 96.xx MPH with a 1.59 60'. I made a couple changes leading up to this time out. I added timing to the 0-3psi range of my ignition table to 26*, leaving 4-8psi at 22* and anything over that at 18*. I changed the wastegate spring to the middle (whatever is in the XO2 60mm pkg) to see how the wg would respond to the change. I adjusted overboost protection to 205kPa incase the boost went wild. It didn't. It made 10psi and stopped cold. I put it back on the trailer and called it a night. At least it wasn't broke.

I ended up pulling all the plugs to check from detonation and see what I could read if anything from the plugs. Here's the first of the set.

#ad


I didn't see anything too out of whack. The outer, threaded part on all of the plugs are black as coal. As you can see from the pic, the ceramic is still white. The black coal part creeps up the strap to just before the bend. I ordered and installed some NGK 11s. It starts much faster and seems to run a lot better.

I changed valve covers to some cheap stamped steel jobs and made a oil catch can out of an aluminum water bottle we weren't using. I used to 5/8" barb fittings and some JB Weld. In total, maybe $20 in it. We'll see how it works out.



Last but not least I addressed the wastegate issue. I noticed that the preload spring was barried in the top housing, yet the wg would crack as soon as 1-3psi. I contacted VSRacing who said I was missing the small piece that sets on the spring's top plate. I used a small fender washer in its place. I got a little overzealous with the preload setting. First time out the car hit the overboost protection (set to 15psi) limiter by 3600 RPM. It was good to see. I backed the preload off and the car hits 15psi but no more. The gate cracks at 6psi versus 1-3psi. Its a totally different car to drive now.

I have more tuning to do with the new found power, but I plan to take it to the track this Friday to make a couple more passes.

 

Awesome man - you guys keep us jackstand guys going....

 

Good to hear it! I've been following your build. You're getting close. Also, a lot of you "jackstand" guys go into a tremendous amount of detail. There is no comparison between those builds and a build like mine.

 

Glad to see you finally make an update!

Hopefully I can get my pile back together during the off season.