Spray bomb rebuild is almost done just need to put the pan gasket on it. I used a freeze plug to 86 the low oil sensor. 3/8" weld bung for the oil return. It's the special YYY block lol .. the Y's were pulled off the production line and spec's checked that's it.
I did arp head studs and a fresh set of gt40p's my good friend Eric rebuilt. I replaced the timing chain .. it was really sloppy. 9333 pt1's for head gaskets.
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I had to cut the rear ports on both log manifolds and reweld them. Both of them moved quite a bit when I separated the header flange. I can't get a .005" feeler gauge in any of them now. Waiting on header gaskets and then I'll pressure check it to be sure no leaks.
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I could not get the vband clamps to seal. Two of them have the male/female ends. I added a bellows on the crossover thinking it was binding but no change. I ended up making copper fire rings out of 12ga Romex.
I started on the suspension del alum control arm bushings and Howe custom ball joints 1/2" extension.

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Do you have a picture of the fire rings?

 

Here you go. I soldered the ends together. I started with 18 gauge but ended up with 12 that gave a slight crush and no leaks at 30 lbs.

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Did you do anything to index them in the v-band? Are the V-bands flat on each side or have a step on them?

 

These have a step in them and the ring sits in the recess I'll get a pic next time I get a chance.
The vband on the driver side is the flat style I used the 18ga ring on that one just glued to the face. Not sure how that one's going to work out

 

Fire rings. Reamed the spindles .. I matched the depth of engagement to the stock sn95 pin which seated had .850" the entire taper is 1.1". I used Brutus to do the reaming.
Don't waste your time with the junk $40 reamer on Amazon it refused to cut. The $130 reverse flute reamer from Howe did the job NP. #ad
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I cut .200" off the backside of the rack to improve Ackerman. A side benefit is it should give me some much needed clearance between the tie rod boot and up pipes.
MM solid rack bushings/cc plates, koni yellows, 94/95 spindles blah blah blah. Finally going back together. Waiting on a steering shaft.
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I'm swapping the AOD for a 4R70W the shift lever on the 70 is a different length than the AOD. Does anyone know if the shifter will work as is or do I need to change something around?

 

I run the factory AOD shifter in my 93 mustang with a 4r70w. I use a shift cable from a new edge Mustang that had a 4r70w. There are different shift levers depending on what the trans came out of.

 

You can also try a 94/95 sn95 aode shifter.

 

I bought a big brake kit for the front from rock auto .. I don't recommend it shitty paint is flaking off out of the box.
The pictures are of the left side of the car. The caliper and bracket are clearly marked "R".
Do I have this right? The pads slide into the bottom of the bracket and the pin goes in at the top. Any idea where the clip goes? The bleeder is at the top. #ad

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They are just anti moan clips, I toss mine. But those ones look kind of strange, it was a while back when I did the PBRs on mine. I am on the road right now so I can’t check.

 

They should go in the little notch where the ends of the brake pads slide into the calipers. #ad

 

Thanks Ben. I got it now. Really disappointed in the kit I bought. Looks like cheap red paint. I'm going to run them I can't send them back since I got them some time ago.

 

Good progress