Sent this to you in reply to your PM, just thought I would put it here also in case anyone would like to add anything. Please let me know if this does not make sense.

No you do not use solid lifters. But when your engine is running your lifters will "pump" up and run "pumped" but when you put a set of dry hydraulic lifters in the pressure of your valve springs will collapse your lifters causing you to get the wrong measurments. So you must get your lifters to act "pumped" all the time, the easiest way to do this get the springs I linked to you and they will not apply enough pressure to collapse your lifters. Or you can modify a set of lifters as I did.

 

Thanks for the advice!!!!

I will be doing this after i find the PTV clearance and have the hydraulic lifters in correct????

Think im going to talk to my engine guy tomorrow to see if he has any SBF solid lifters laying around. If he does ill borrow them and do the clay trick again to find out the PTV clearance. If not ill go buy 2 at the auto parts store.

 

No you will do this to find your PTV. You do not use solid lifters for this because if they set different in the hole it will change your measurement when you put your hydraulic lifter back in.
Go to advance auto parts tomorrow and buy this http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...google&utm_campaign=gpla&utm_content=10289736 (it cost $7) put the hydraulic lifters in that you plan to run, then swap your valve springs on the cylinder you will be testing with the ones I posted in the link above, put the clay on your piston and torque the head down. Then turn the engine over and check the clay to see your inprint and that will give you your PTV clearance.

At no time during the build of this engine should you have or need solid lifters, you can not use them and they will not benefit you.

 

I see what have to do. Thank you again for the help

 

Ok so i got a set of the soft springs as you mentioned and had my machine shop put them on for me today. I dont know if i need to put the clay on the piston for this one, as the article states you dont have to remove the head to check this with this procedure. So i set the valves to zero lash and rotate the piston to TDC and hold it there while i take the cam and rotate that. Once the valve hits the piston i take the feeler gauge and hope to come near .100 on exhaust and .080 on the intake.

Sound about right?

 

Yep, sounds right.

 

to make a solid lifter, pull the snap ring off the top, pull the innards out, remove the spring then fill with nuts washers etc so that the plunger is about .030 or so down from the snap ring groove then use it as a checker.

 

Well i did the test and i have clearance. it was close on the intake but have plenty on the exhaust. Did the clay test on another piston and got no impressions. I hope i tightened them down correctly.

On the number 5 piston,with the spring checker, the Allen wrench tightener was close to all the way down (but intake and exhaust were even in depth) where as the number 7 piston, the one with clay, the Allen wrench only went down three threads, from what i can count. Again intake and exhaust were even.

I hope that makes sense......all the Allen wench tighteners shouldn't all be three threads down should they?

 

well redid the clay on pistons 4 and 7. Still didn't get any impressions on the clay but Did get different results with the allen wrench tightens. Both were different on each valve. intake on 4 had three threads while the exhaust seemed to be all the way down. On the #7 piston it was opposite, intake was all the way down and the exhaust was maybe three threads down.

What am I doing wrong. Both pistons had the Vic Jr springs on the valves, not the spring checkers?

 

Do you have stud mount or pedestal mount rocker arms?

 

They are ARP stud mounts on Scorpion 1.6 RR



http://sbftech.com/index.php?topic=317.0

I have been doing what the OP stated to do over and over and over but to no avail do i have constant depth with the allan wrench portion

I might try the "make your own solid lifter" tomorrow.

 

So im thinking again about tuning....

I know I talked about it earlier, and talked about using megasqurit, maybe PnP.....but can someone explain to me or sway me to get a custom tune from a shop. Dyno tune, street tune or use the megasquirt.

Megasquirt is $800+ while a custom tune is around $500.00

Just want some opinions from those of you with custom tunes.

TIA.





Just some light reading for me: http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/what-fuel-pump-to-use-on-stock-91-5-0.856821/

http://www.enginebasics.com/EFI Tuning/2step rev limiter.html

 

Any one want to do the pros and cons of a street/dyno tune vs megasquirt?

 

Took a couple of days off from work for my birthday and decided to put the pistons in and torque to spec.

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Also my parents gave me this for a present

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Looking good man!

As far as tuning went, I went with a moates quarter horse with the factory ecm. I wanted the ability to tune my own car indefinitely, and was willing to learn how so thats what i did. I must say every now and again i think about having someone tune it for me bc i don't know how much i could be leaving on the . If you go this route it is a steep learning curve, but something rewarding about tuning your own car.

MS is pretty much the same thing and a hell of a lot easier to tune with compared to disecting the factory eec. Only down side IMO is the batch fire injection, not a big deal but it's proven and people can/do make plenty of power with it.

Custom tune is the easiest fastest route but you'll probably ending up paying him again and again every time you you make any modifications.

 

Question still I have is setting the poly locks. When i am doing this i am doing the E.O.I.C method. Some of the poly lock allen wenches are at different depths.

Is this normal, is this okay?



Edit: I figured it out. There is a flat part and round part to the scorpion roller rockers. If correctly installed, the Poly locks will only go down a few turns. Where as if installed incorrectly, like i was doing, the depth of the locks are deeper. FML

 

Did some of my own P2V clearance for safety sake.
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And started to assemble the Long block

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And started to take apart the 302
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Bought a rebuilt AOD and converter for 400.00 off craigslist.
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Motor looks great! Do you know any specs on the converter?

 

no idea and I have no clue how to find out. Any way to?

 

I looked on the Converter today and its stamped 9K2150..................So does that mean I have a 2,150 stall. If so awesome