I hope to install my custom cam today with the help of my dad, and see if we have piston clearance and or proper pushrod length.

Also the 30-2884 re manufactured Distributor came today

 

I looked up some other builds an they dont go anywhere near .0065, they say .026-.030 at the max. Just curious as to why.

 

you do realize .026-.065 is 2-3 X larger then .0065 to .007 don't you?

 

yes i know, but why do you gap them so small. dont you want wider gaps for heat purposes/expansion? not to sound like a dick just a honest question. I do appreciate the info. Thanks

 

Make sure to tap your pan for the oil return while you have it off.

 

A run of the mill street motor would have in the neighborhood of .0045/inch of bore, so gapping at .0065-.007 is quite a bit bigger. Just using a 4.00" bore as an example. 4 * .0045= .018" ring gap. 4 * .0065= .026" ring gap. 4 * .007= .028" ring gap. That also falls in the max range you mentioned. How much ring gap were you planing on?

 

.026 top ring and .030 bottom. Does that sound about right?

 

Depends on how much boost power you are after..

If you are staying around 15psi i'd go .024 top .026 bottom

 

i guess ill be doing .024 for the top and .026 on the bottom.

thanks for the help everyone!!!!

 

So today my dad and I put two pistons in the block and put the Vic jr. heads on. We put 7 1/2" push rods in and we are still hitting the valves with the pistons. Roller rockers are 1.6...... any idea what to do next? What size to go with? TIA The cam specs are 228/232 .564/.566 LSA 116. we also did the clay trick.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-7702-1/overview/

 

Just ordered one off ebay. Also taking my vic jr's to the machine shop for a once over.

 

Cleaned up my stock pistons

#ad

.
#ad

 

Picked up a used 4" fiberglass hood for $100.00. Needs some TLC but nothing I cant handle

#ad

.
#ad

.
#ad

 

Also make sure you got your head gasket on when checking PTV clearance and if a hydraulic roller cam you make your lifters solid.

 

You mean just make sure my roller rockers are tight? I do have a hydrolic roller cam. For checking PTV clearance I put the head gaskets on with the heads. Tightened the roller rockers to where the lifters start to move a bit from the push rods. Im confused as to why I need solid lifters, do I need them for this build w a hydrolic roller cam?

 

No you need to use solid lifter to check ptv as the hydraulic will give you a false reading. I think you can make your hydraulic lifter into a solid I just don't recall how.

 

Ok so this is what i have come up with. I'm going to use the hydraulic lifters, the 7.5" pushrods, 1.6 RR and do the clay trick for PVC.

Once I get the mold of the valves, I am going to grind out the piston for the clearance, just like this... http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/1407-how-to-push-a-junkyard-351-windsor-past-1000-hp/

"After marking the piston with clay, we used a Dremel rotary tool to notch each piston for clearance. It wasn’t pretty, but our cam now had 0.060-0.070 piston-to-valve clearance."


I cant see buying solid lifters just to check PVC on a roller block.

Wish me luck.

 

If your use hydraulic lifters when checking PTV clearance the lifters will collapse and cause you pushrods to measure wrong "too long" every time. I get a old set if lifters and grind the flat spots off to get to the plunger and put a tack weld to hold it "solid" and grind it down smooth and use it. Most people use these http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...google&utm_campaign=gpla&utm_content=10289736 they do not apply enough pressure to collapse your lifters so you can check for proper length.

 

Also if stud mount rockers use this procedure to adjust valves

1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the pre-load on.
Only do one cylinder at a time.
2. Rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation (clockwise) and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm.
3. To adjust, back off the intake rocker arm adjusting nut and remove any tension from the push rod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the push rod seat up against the retaining lock, if you give it time to do so.
4. Twist the intake push rod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the push rod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one half to three-quarters of a turn from that point for street applications. Use 1/8 to 1/4 turn for race applications. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.
5. Continue to turn the engine, watching that same intake valve/rocker you just set. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.
6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.