December update. Engine is at the shop. getting .060 over. Bought 4340 eagle 4.00 stroke crank. 6.20 forged h rods with arp hardware. Still looking at pistons. Je vs the KB icons. Any advice would be great. thank you.

 

Go JE, they are way better IMHO. Also, if your going .060" on that block you want to have it sonic checked, they are famous for being thin walled. If your HP goals are high you might consider a Dart sportsman block or something similar.

 

Looong post, my apologizes in advance, but you may have saved me a lot of heartache, head scratching and alcohol consumption. I'll explain...

Just read thru your entire thread, loved it. You've had to deal with a lot of stuff. Interestingly, I got a MS 2 this summer (used) and had pretty close to the same issues that you were plagued with.

Car would not start or get spark with SPOUT-in. Car starts and runs fine with SPOUT-out, but on base timing only (MS would not control spark).

I sent the unit back to DIY and it checked out fine on their Jim Stim. So when I got it back I tried it again with SPOUT-in and it started and ran for about 2 mins, then died and went right back to no spark with SPOUT-in. So I gave up on MS2 figuring it must have been something in the circuitry with that particular (used, and possibly abused) box, and reluctantly went back to my A9L with ACT chip.

I've recently decided to give MS another try, but this time using a brand new Stinger Performance PiMPxs unit, thinking it had to have been an issue with the used MS unit. It's due to arrive next week.

But reading your thread and acknowledging the troubles you had with your MS2. It may not have been the fault of the MS after-all, but in the actual car wiring, which got me thinking.

I bought my Fox new back in 93, so I pretty much know the history of the car, and was fairly confident that the wiring harness was not monkeyed with (especially after testing nearly everything during the no start issues myself ie.. SPOUT continuity, TFI module, grounds ect...) and the fact that it works perfectly fine with the A9L installed.

Buuuut, I just now recall having an alarm system installed years ago, which last spring I had it removed with the help of a friend. I never gave this a second thought and why would I have, especially when the A9L with ACT chip worked perfectly fine ever since removing the alarm system, right? Until now....

When I get the new unit and if I encounter these same issues I did with the used MS2, I'll be looking at the wiring harness under the dash, in particular the wires where the alarm system during its (professional) installation and subsequent removal were altered. I'll know more next week when I get it installed and attempt start-up.

I'd kinda feel like a jackass for saying thanks, especially after the crap that you've been through, if it does turn out to be my wiring as well. I'm glad I came across your build, and look forward to seeing more in the future.
My car is a N/A (atm) Boss block 351W stroked to 427 cid. I'm researching going twin turbo for the future, which is what brings me here to this site and yours plus many other threads on this forum.

P.S. I agree with TDmkr496 100%. Thin walls and high cylinder pressures probably won't play well together. 60 over on a stock block is a lot. Perhaps it is time for an aftermarket block?

 

just want to build this car and enjoy it. as for the walls, if it blows, oh well. Hope that the wring is the fix for you BB93. enjoy.

 

When you actually think about how much sleeve thickness is being removed on a .030 to a .060 bore its very negligible (.015").

 

Very true. Never thought of it that way.

 

End of December 2017 update

Engine builder purchased 750-.060 forged icon slugs. File fit Molly rings. King H bearing.