you would want to put the test light clip on a ground point, preferably the battery ground and check for voltage that way.

So the last thing you changed was the alternator and wiring to the alternator? I would check your wiring there and at the starter solenoid.

have you tried jumping power to the coil?

 

check the fusible links I suspect something going on there as well. You changed alternator wiring and lost the hot wire to the fuel pump and to the ignition.

 

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

 

I would check these fusible links going to the fuel pump and eec power relay/computer #ad

 

THank you very much. Ill take a look at that tomorrow.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/fusible-link-wire-technical-help-please.836615/

 

Well those links look to be in great shape. I did another test by putting a hei spark plug checker up side down on the coil and it sparked when i turned the key to on....but not when im cranking.....So I checked to see if i have 12 v at the coil. I did have 12 v at coil. so next i checked the ICM on the new distributor.

 

visual check ok but did you check for continuity through the fusible link?

 

So probe the fusibal link itself?

All were between 11.6-12.2 volts

 

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...hile-cranking-spark-after-crank-stops.841946/

 

Another... All credit belongs to jrichker of StangNet.com for creating this checklist.

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs


Special Notes

* All text applies to all models unless stated otherwise.
* 94-95 Model-Specific Information in Red
* Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them.



Place car in neutral or Park and set the parking brake to ensure the vehicle doesn’t roll away.

1.) Remove push on connector from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch on. Remove the coil wire from distributor & and hold it 3/8” away from the engine block. Use a Metal Jumper to connect the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.


No spark: Possible failed items in order of their probability

* MSD or Crane ignition box (If so equipped)
* Coil
* TFI Module
* PIP sensor in distributor. The PIP sensor supplies the timing pulse to trigger the TFI and injectors. See paragraph 5A - a Noid Light will tell if the PIP is working by flashing when the engine is cranking.
* No ECC or Computer Power - ECC or computer relay failure
* 86-93 models only: ECC relay next to computer - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires
* 94-95 models only: EEC or PCM power relay in the constant control relay module. Look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.
* No ECC or Computer Power - Fuse or Fuse link failure
* 86-93 models only: Fuse links in wiring harness – Check to make sure that there is 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires. All the fuse links live in a bundle up near the starter solenoid.
* 94-95 models only: 20 amp EEC fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. Look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.
* Ignition switch - Look for 12 volts at the Ignition Coil Red/Light Green wire. If it is not reading 12 Volts: possible blown fuse link or faulty ignition switch. Remove the plastic from around the ignition switch and look for 12 volts on the red/green wire with the switch in the Run position. If there isn’t 12 volts then the ignition switch is faulty. If 12 volts is present in the Run position, then the fuse link is blown.
* 94-95 models only: Check inside fuse panel for fuse #18 blown – 20 amp fuse
* Bad or missing secondary power ground. This ground is located between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges.
* Computer
* Engine fires briefly, but dies immediately when the key is released to the Run position: Pull the small push on connector (red wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Hold the switch in the crank position: if it continues to run there is a problem with either the ignition switch or TFI module. Check for 12 volts at the red/green wire on the coil with the switch in the Run position. If reading 12 volts, then replace the TFI. If not reading 12 volts, replace the ignition switch.




Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and Check to see Spark.

2.) No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:

* Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40
* Distributor cap
* Rotor
* Spark Plug wires
* Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil



3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start.
Next, get a can of starting fluid (ether) from your local auto parts store: costs vary depending upon Brand and Size. Pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it. Reconnect the air duct and try to start the car. DO NOT TRY TO START THE CAR WITHOUT RECONNECTING THE AIR DUCT.

Two reasons for this
1.) If it backfires, the chance for a serious fire is increased.
2.) On Mass Air cars, the computer needs to measure the MAF flow once the engine starts.
If it starts then, you have a fuel management issue. Continue the checklist with emphasis of fuel related items that follow. If it doesn’t, then it is a computer or timing issue.

Clue: Listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the EEC test connector and jump the connector in the Upper RH corner to ground. The EEC connector is near the wiper motor and LH hood hinge.

If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump.

Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. Beware of fire hazard when you do this. In a pinch, you can use a tire pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure. It may not be completely accurate, but you will have some clue as to how much pressure you have. If you have any doubts about having sufficient fuel flow/pressure, rent a fuel pressure test gauge from the auto parts store. That will tell you for sure if you have adequate fuel pressure.


4.) No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability

* Tripped inertia switch – Coupe & hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch
* Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most Mustangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter. Look for 12 volts at the Pink/Black wire on the fuel pump relay.
* Clogged fuel filter
* Failed fuel pump
* 86-90 models only: Blown fuse link in wiring harness. Look for 12 volts at the Orange/Lt Blue wire on the fuel pump relay.
* 91-93 models only Blown fuse link in wiring harness. Look for 12 volts at the Pink/Black wire on the fuel pump relay.
* The fuse links for all model years 86-93 live in the wiring harness near the starter solenoid.
* 94-95 models only: 20 amp fuel pump fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. Look for 12 volts at the Dark green/yellow wire on the constant control relay module.
* Engine seems to load up on fuel and may have black smoke at the tailpipe. Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove the vacuum line from the regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while the pump is running. If fuel is coming out the vacuum port, the regulator has failed. Check the regulator vacuum line for fuel too. Disconnect it from the engine and blow air though it. If you find gas, the regulator has failed.



5.) Fuel pressure OK, the injectors are not firing.

* A noid light available from any auto parts store, is one way to test the injector wiring.
The noid light plugs into the fuel injector harness in place of any easily accessible injector. Plug it in and it will flash if the injector is firing.
* [jrichker likes] to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. [jrichker would] hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too. [Not certain about this step]
* Pull an injector wire connector off and look for 12 volts on the red wire when the ignition switch is on.
* No power, then look for problems with the 10 pin connecter (salt & pepper shakers at the rear of the upper manifold).
* No power and the 10 pin connections are good: look for broken wiring between the orange/black wire on the ECC relay and the red wire for the 10 pin connectors.
* TPS voltage exceeds 3.7 volts with the throttle closed. This will shut off the injectors, since the computer uses this strategy to clear a flooded engine. Use a DVM, a pair of safety pins, and probe the black/white and green wires to measure the TPS voltage.
* On a 94-95 Mustang, probe the black/white and grey/white wires to measure the TPS voltage.
* It should be .5-.99 volts with the key on, engine not running. Note that if the black/white wire (signal ground) has a bad connection, you will get some strange readings. Make a second measurement using the battery post as the ground to eliminate any ground problems. If the readings are different by more than 5%, you may have a high resistance condition in the black/white signal ground circuit.



6.) Spark & fuel pressure OK.

* Failed IAB (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car.
* Failed computer (not very likely)
* Engine ignition or cam timing off (only likely if the engine has been worked on recently)
* Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order from the non HO engines.
HO & 351W 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Non HO 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
* No start when hot - Press the throttle to the floor & try starting it if you get this far. If it starts, replace the ECT.
* Engine that has had the heads off or valves adjusted. Do a compression test to make sure the valves are not adjusted too tight. You should have a minimum of 90 PSI on a cold engine.

 

great post, that should keep him busy

 

This is what I have my $ on

Ignition switch - Look for 12 volts at the Ignition Coil Red/Light Green wire. If it is not reading 12 Volts: possible blown fuse link or faulty ignition switch. Remove the plastic from around the ignition switch and look for 12 volts on the red/green wire with the switch in the Run position. If there isn’t 12 volts then the ignition switch is faulty. If 12 volts is present in the Run position, then the fuse link is blown.

OR this

* Bad or missing secondary power ground. This ground is located between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges.

 

So talking with Mike over the phone, we have come to the conclusion that this is very frustrating.

Have 12 volts at the ignition switch. 12v at the ICM on distributor. Power at the coil. replaced the coil with stock coil....

he suggested to take PIP out and try starting it.......in doing so, we got the engine to make some sort of noise, some fire....so on to the next step....

now charging the battery.


Edit: so still with PIP out...I get sparks from coil while cranking so that's a plus. Headed in the right direction. Now tomorrow I'll pull number five plug lead and see if I get spark there.

 

Today i can say that I have spark when I pull #5 plug wire off and lay it near the block and PIP is out. So on to the next test.

 

Today I focused on getting timing down. Did the finger over the piston tdc trick. Marked cap with rotor. Tried firing it up and it sputtered and gagged....alot better direction than previous days...

So after messing around with how far to turn the distributor. I put ithe TFI module directly next to water cooler elbow, as far as it would go. Tightened down bolt and hopped in to the car. Turned on fuel pump and BAM IT FIRED!!!!!!!!

Well sort of. It ran for about 35 seconds on its own and then shut off. Looked at the distributor and FAK it moved on me...So Mike and I have a theory that I will need a heila coil and maybe move the distributor a tooth over. Have to charge battery now and progress tomorrow. Getting in the right direction. A bit of head ache but getting there.

Just hope that I get spark with the spout back in, and retune the timing in MS.

 

After some helpfull advice from Mike and 92LX we have gotten the car to finally fire over with spout out. For what ever reason the spark plug wires where not placed where they originally were before giving my car to one of the two shops....or some one switched them as a prank when my car sat at my parents house for a couple of days. That being said i am very happy as of today. Now have to figure out if and why when the spout is placed back in....why the engine wont fire over. Might have to reload a tune, or come up with somthing else.'

Tomorrow I will load the tune Josh sent me via email and see if that fixes any of my problems. If that does not work ill be purchasing a stimulator board from DIYautotune and see if my ingnition part of the computer is fried. Again I want to thank Josh and Mike for their time and help. Stand up guys they are!!!!





.

 

Dont forget to read the voltage at the spout connector when you get a chance

 

http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mwire.htm

or

http://www.diyautotune.com/images/msharness/mswiring.png


Going to use this pdf to properly wire up my MS v2 3.57. Hope this will be the fix all of my problems. Thank you Josh for your help

 

So the MS was fine, and the wiring was the issue?

 

It's a possibility among other things.