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557 BBF with twin T76 turbos Bad numbers....

Discussion in 'Dyno Results and Track Times Forum' started by 59megawagon, Apr 2, 2013.

  1. TwoFastT3s

    Joined:
    May 26, 2004
    Updates?
     
  2. BoostedBadBoy

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2010
    We need to get this put back together into one topic again, there are like 2-3 threads going on virtually the same thing. Makes it hard to follow progress or offer better support, pick one of the threads and stick to it, and we can better help you.
     
  3. 59megawagon

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2010
    I am sticking with this one. No new news yet other than the dyno shop says it will be hitting the dyno tomorrow "Friday" sometime. I have my fingers crossed......
     
  4. Silver03gt

    Joined:
    Sep 20, 2012
    Hopefully you were able to get it running right. I really want to see the numbers of this thing. Are you only dynoing the car at 9 lbs or are you going to turn them up with it gets running right?
     
  5. bgjohnson

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2004
    Good luck! We are all rootin for you.
     
  6. mustang-junky

    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2005
  7. a70duster

    Joined:
    Jul 31, 2006
    On the first page there is an engine shot showing the 4 passenger side pistons inside the block. The one that is at TDC "looks" to be out of the deck. What is the deck height of the pistons? Ideal quench will vary from motor to motor but should be around 0.040".
     
  8. 59megawagon

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2010
    Here are 2 pics of the same #1 hole new build and the second pic is with about 200 miles on the motor. It knocked so bad and went lean and blew a headgasket and bent 3 rods.

    You can see in the pic that the piston is turned in the cylinder parallel with the wrist pin.

    But the piston does not come flush with the deck. I had thought I had .020 to deck height and a .043 headgasket and yes that was before I used copper head gaskets and a studded head and mains.....

    Tom.

    :help:

    557A (1).jpg #ad


    boom (4).jpg #ad


    boom (8).jpg #ad


    boom (11).jpg #ad
     
  9. 59megawagon

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2010
    If the knocking goes away I will let them turn it up and see what it does. Max boost I have seen with this motor is 16lbs It has a manual boost controller.
     
  10. 59megawagon

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2010
    Still no news yet. Other than it has not been on the dyno yet. They are still trying to work it in???

    T.H.
     
  11. BoostedBadBoy

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2010
    Damn man, have you tried running it NA without the turbo being hooked up and forced induction since these problems? might be easier to track down the problems maybe? I realize its built for boost but should be able to run NA still.
     
  12. TA153

    Joined:
    Apr 1, 2013
    first thing id do is never let your car within a mile of that shop, they are obviously incompetent and shouldnt even be aloud to touch a lawnmower

    K.I.S.S.
    keep it simple %#@% , fuel-spark-compression, thats where id start, verify comp. all cyl. within 10 percent (better yet leakdown) all is well then check fuel, make sure all have a signal, that pressure holds steady at idle and rises with boost, let off as soon as detonation occurs! (btw this is defiantly pinging/detonation and not rod knock or piston slap?) also think i saw 42lbs injectors in first pics? but you said you had 80s, if you did jump from 42s to 80s did the tune/maf get adj? spark- the tan plugs tell its working but like said above make sure its firing when its suppose to as the rpm rises, who knows the retards dynoing it might have the sds set for a 4 cyl.

    check the easy stuff first cause like said many times already its probably something small that once you figure out you wont believe you didnt think of it the 1st day
     
  13. fritznh

    Joined:
    May 7, 2010
    You mentioned in your other post that the MAP was all over the place. You may be suffering from electrical interference. I've seen some drag cars where the ignition is pretty hot and the wires for the MAP sensor were run next to (or near) the spark plugs on their way back to the computer. When it was running, the MAP signal looked like it was two inches wide and the car would barely run under boost. Keep in mind that an unshielded wire is basically a radio antenna and you're making all sorts of electrical noise with the high current injectors and the spark plugs.

    We got some steel braided flex tubing and put nearly all the wires inside, and made sure the outside of the tubing was grounded. It cleared up the problems completely, but it took a couple of trips to the track to figure out what the hell was going on, popping and banging as soon as the boost came up. There is some stuff out there that works really well for industrial applications like this:

    http://www.glenair.com/braid/amberstrand/

    I don't remember where I got it (it was a few years ago) but it looked like that stuff and it worked. Definitely shield the wires from the MAP sensor.
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2013
  14. 59megawagon

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2010



    Thanks for the info but my sensor is mounted under the dash with the boost hose going threw the firewall. I had my MAP sensor hose going to within 2" of the intake port for cyl. 4 and that was making for way too much pulsing. So I moved it to the intake elbow and that worked great.

    Thanks for the ideas though.
     
  15. bgjohnson

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2004
    They still haven't gotten it on the dyno?
     
  16. fastspec2

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2009
    Probably still trying to figure out whats wrong with it first. No sense in strapping it down to listen to it ping and make less then half what it should.
    Untill you find a smoking gun, running it is kinda mute.
    You have tdc'd it correct?
    verified that the commanded equals actual timing?
    drilled a hole in a dist cap to check phaseing?
    run a wideband in both sides to see if they are the same?
    pull plugs to verify they look the same?
    verify the injectors are flowing properly and the same?
    verify cam timing?

    Good luck with it. Sucks to read your struggles.
     
  17. fritznh

    Joined:
    May 7, 2010
    You never know, some of the computers are sensitive to electrical noise. If you have unshielded wires in the engine compartment that lead back to the computer, they could be a source for problems. The air temperature sensor can play havoc with the density calculation in the computer, and the water temperature can cause problems (but not if you've got those functions turned off). If you've got wires out there, they are antennas as far as picking up electrical noise goes. It might be worth checking -- do you have access to an oscilloscope? Weird instrument, but it lets you look at electrical signals visually. All of the sensors (with the exception of the PIP signal from the distributor) should be clean and not jump around. With the 'scope can see that really easily.

    Your combination should be something around 1200 hp at 12 psi, unless I miss my guess. As soon as its sorted out you'll have a lot of traction problems.
     
  18. 59megawagon

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2010
    I got a call today while I was out from the dyno shop and they said the car was running "Good"??? I have no idea what that means?? Today was there day off and he came in to dyno the car by himself with no interruptions.


    Just have to wait till monday and see what it did????


    Tom H.
     
  19. mustang-junky

    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2005
    The suspense has got to be killing you. If it were me, I think I would have a hard time sleeping. I hope the numbers are good.

    Jess
     
  20. bgjohnson

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2004
    I just hope the pinging stopped!
     
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