The first thing I would do is go to auto zone and get one of those threaded TDC checking bolts and make sure your balncer is on. Cheap, easy and sounds like a good first step to ensure you're not pissing in the wind with your timing settings.

My question is how good did it run last time with iron heads and smaller turbos? Was there ever a time where this setup didn't spark knock? It was the same balancer, distributor and computer right?

 

I am checking TDC right now and it has Autolite plugs XD-24 gaped at .045 Just checked TDC and it is spot on correct with the balancer and pointer.....

More updates as I get into it.

 

I would reduce the gap on them plugs!

 

Why would the tuner not pull the WG springs and try a n/a run?

 

Fug man, sorry to hear you are still having issues with this!

What fuel were you using?

 

I was using 91 pump gas. As for pulling the waste gate spring. It didnt make any power at 9lbs of boost so why pull the spring?? The motor was running maybe 80% and getting 9 lbs of boost out of it I am sure he was laying into it pretty hard. But he still had knocking problems but I guess not enough that was going to explode??

P.S. I just drained the fuel tank and put in 26 gallons of sunoco 260 with eth. It is something like 110 oct?? and 13% eth.

I will be regapping all my plugs to .030 and rechecking my roller rocker adjustment.

Maybe someone put a sock in my intercooler pipe??? I will be checking those too.

 

Personally I would take the plugs down to .022"

 

Personally I don't why .030 shouldn't work fine. We are talkin 9 psi not 20psi. unless there is something that idk about bbf's where they require a c hair gap

 

Do you have a picture you can post of the dyno graph?

 

Chamber shape and spark plug placement in the chamber can both affect how much gap you need, and/or can get away with. The wider the gap the better, as long as your ignition system is capable of jumping the gap and MORE IMPORTANTLY, starting a flame front ,

 

isnt not only about the ignition being able to jump the gap, but also on the velocity of the incoming charge...

 

Has anyone here used a stock ford dizzy from a 351c?? Are there any problems with the ford electronic dizzys???

 

I am trying to get the dyno graphs emailed to me from the shop. I will try to post them as soon as I get them

 

I would shit can the distributor. it sounds like timing to me.

 

I would charge back the credit card if they won't send you the graph.

I've never had a shop dyno a car that had major problems before. My tuners have always trouble shot all issues before making a full pull.

 

Those pistons have almost no quench area. Could increase detonation.

Have you tried asking for help over on the 460 forums?

Jess

 

I would really like to see the graph, that can tell a lot. Really like to see the a/f also, as it will go crazy if there is a misfire, which in all honesty this sounds like. Pulling the gap down on the plugs is a great idea. Also, grounds for your ignition box should go right to the battery. A misfire can be hard to diagnose, as it can lead you to think there are other things going on. Also, a misfire is nothing but made worse under boosted conditions. Your compression ratio doesn't scare me or really anything else in your motor. As long as the motor is mechanically sound it should make power. I think you are chasing something that isn't there to be found in the motor, start with the ignition and work from there. Anthony

 

X2 although the plug gap can't be the only problem .45 is to much .

 

.45" is WAY too much IMHO. Another thing that might be thrown into the mix is the gear drive, Not positive about this, but I think knock sensors and gear drives don't get along well at all. Seems like that motor should be making nearly 500/650 N/A.

 

What kind of tuner doesn't pull plugs and read them...or notice the gap.